So, if you had to re-wire your whole car, how would you go a

[Guest Anonymous]

Painless? a new OEM harness? any suggestions welcome and very very appreciated.

[Guest Anonymous]

Pinless kits are about $350 for a 12 fuse kit. It would be my first choice if I had the money. Your other option is to find someone with a parts car that has a good harness. But that will be hard to find. And It might have some bad wires. New harness are not available.

Andy

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

Good looking harness in a 76 thats been parked since 78.

[Guest Anonymous]

work ok in a 74tii? do you want to sell it?

[Guest Anonymous]

URL: http://www.winnsecurity.com/norcal02

Entirely custom, if i absolutley have to I'll make a duplicate of the stock harness with the original 12 fuse fusebox instead of using another one i am looking at right now (which has one common power bus, could be trouble for the separate ignition and battery powered circuits) but still change the wiring some so that i can have a relocated battery, an alarm, door locks, and a few other things witout having to hack one up. Good luck to you on yours, it will be probably quite a while before i start mine.

[Guest Anonymous]

Ron Francis has been around for a long time and has nice stuff.

Ron Francis Wire Works

http://www.wire-works.com/

Centech Wiring

http://www.centechwire.com/

[Guest Anonymous]

URL: http://www.riwire.com/

If you want to thats one thing- but did you really fry everything? I rebuilt my harness replacing wires where needed and beefed up the headlight wiring (added a relay.) I found that most of the wiring was in good shape. I replaced the connectors if in doubt and soldered everything. I retaped it all and put it back in. Its a major pain but now its good for another 25 years at least.I am glad to know that electrically things are good- no jiggling required etc. If you want to go through it all just to get it sorted out once and for all then pull the harness and check it out. You might not need to pull it entirely in order to get it in great shape. I had the car apart so it was much easier.

Ohhhhh now i read that indeed you did fry it- so get one from someone on the board and rehab it. You can compare it to your fried one. Its not too difficult just take your time and do it right.

Take pictures of the arrrangement under the dash and where it comes into the car. Look carefully at what things you want to change and or fix. Pull the old one and untape it. Leave tape at all of the places where wires split off.

Do you have the factory manual? If not let me know and I'll scan the wiring diagram for you. If you have it make an enlarged copy (200%) of that page- A shop copy so to speak.

The above place is a great place for colored wires with tracers and for connectors of all sorts. I was able to use correct coloring for the wires so the factory diagram is still easy to use. You can get everything you need from there including ground strap high temp sleeves for engine areas, battery lugs galore. West Marine or any marine supplier- local is good- also has very useful stuff.

Want brigher headlights? I put in a high beam relay and added h-4 that are super bright. Nows you chance! How about fogs or gages or......... whatever. If you want to add stuff later- like gps or stereo or a frigge or who knows what its not a bad idea to add something like a 6 fuse block under the dash somewhere. Design your ultimate harness and go for it.

I'm putting up some pics for you.

[Guest Anonymous]

and go to town. You can do it yourself if you have more time than money. It explains in very easy to understand terms and goes from basic electricity thru complete harness assembly.

if your not going the concours route, you can upgrade along the way and make it the way you want it.

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

i posted this same message on "that other board" =)

it was actually a hugely embarassing error on my part, i connected the wrong terminals. i hate to admit it.

the harness is only damaged on the engine side of the firewall, so i guess i'll need the engine bay part of the harness and i'll have to splice it in. . .

and i had just got done cleaning up the engine bay, too. =( i guess i'll have the opportunity to get it even cleaner.

here's a shot of "before"

i'm sorry for being a jackass and burning up your wires, chloe! although a friend called me and told me stories of torqueing down the windsheild trim on an E-type and breaking the windsheild, or worse yet not cleaning the silica from a freshly blasted valve cover and putting it on a brand new stroker S14 engine and developing a rod knock after 20 miles. i guess things could be worse, eh? i just (re)learn things (even dumb ones i already know) the hard way.

thanks guys.

1997 moreagrün - metallic 328i

1974 amazonasgrün 2002tii (Chloe)

BMWCCA #37452

[Guest Anonymous]

URL: http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~shiokusa/dodge.files/dom/dom.htm

Before you take the harness off make a list of grommets that you will need. Start looking for these because they take some trial and error.

for soldering I bought a block of solder and melted it in a can over a soft flame. Then it is really easy and fast to do multiple connections. THis also makes soldering big stuff easy- no melted insulation etc. just put flux where you want to solder and dip it in the can- done.

lay out the 2 harnesses on the floor. If you have such a place the ldeal way to go about it is to pin the harnesses to the wall in the same configuration. Compare each wire an make notes about exactly what you need to buy in terms of wire color, guage, connectors, etc. Measure long! Dont forget to

If you are adding wires tape them in place without taking the tape off at the junction areas. Leave the new connectors off until the wires are roughly in place. Then cut excess length off and crimp and solder. Use heat shrink. I replaces all of the terminals that had plastic covers that were brittle. If in question I just cut it off.

I used cloth tape to wrap. It sucks when you want to add something later but I don't like the plastic tube or spiral wrap stuff. I also replaced the hooks in the engine compartment- they always rust and they seemed fragile with age.

I will add a fuse at the battery for the whole system just so I never melt my harness.

The pics are not so helpful but non the less.... Let me know if you need specific pics.

I could go on. If you need anything drop a line.

Pete

[Guest Anonymous]

URL: http://www.winnsecurity.com/norcal02

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

i bought a few auto electric wioring books from amazon( mostly used ) and the HP book appears to be the best. I have only skimmed the books ( just arrived) but i think it will be very useful. good recommendation.

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)