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Best ref. source to get specs for blueprinting M10 motor?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

looking to blueprint my m10. where is the best source to get all the dimensions/measurements?

thanks,

b

i realize the machine shop will be doing the work, i just want to be able to pick the best candidate from the 3 motors that i have.

TIA

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Guest Anonymous

to spend my time and take my time to do something right.

you can throw engines together and have them last a while and have good power, or you can take your time, do it right and have them make a little more power and last a LOT longer.

my philosophy is:

It's not so much the driving of the car, it's the journey it takes to get there...

i dig it, so i do it.

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Guest Anonymous

Kinda makes it pointless... like when you look at it, sure it is doing it the "right way" but you also have to understand the factory didn't do it "the right way" those blocks didn't come blueprinted... the factory didn't perfectly plane those cylinder heads and CC the chambers.. I don't write this to discourage you from doing it... I'm only pointing out the limited cost/HP benifit to it.. sure it's "done right" but why not include ARP fastners through out.. main studs/head studs and rod bolts.. would seem like overkill but it would be done even better... blue printing a block with stock components is like building a treehouse with a tolernace of .01".. sure it's a better tree house but there's no reason for it.. now a block with custom pistons and extensive head work needs to have a blue printed engine to assure that there are uniform combustion chamber volumes and compression ratio's... then you get into torque plates and torqued distortion if any on an 02.. if the shop really does a full blue print on your engine, which most shops can't do right, it should cost $300 more min... then you will have perfectly matched cylinder volumes with a matched cc'd head and a uniform compression ratio across the board.. now to do this accuratly you must have your connecting rods reconditioned and either reset the length in them with new pinbushing or make sure they are the right length or you will have a piston that goes down and up further than the others screwing up this process... and if you don't plan on going with a schrick cam and a adjustable cam gear then you are just really pissin in the wind because regrinds are a much slopier made cam. their openings and closings are not as uniform and well made as the schrick cam.. sure the lift may be the same but if you measure a regrind.. you will find that the specified opening and closeing is different per cam lobe.. degree your cam and account for this if you want to get serious because this is what blueprinting is for... the adjustable cam gear is for adjusting for the timming chain difference because both the block and the head will have to be surfaced.. blueprinting is designed for making sure certain variables during engine assembly to generate a targeted maximum output by uniform combustion across all 4 cylinders.. the whole assembly balanced would be highly recomended because it'd be dumb to assure uniform combustion and then have an unbalanced rig trying to sling itself apart as your main underpinning. Party On

Kris

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