takeyourmarx

Ok thanks, that’s what I needed to know. The current bypass is just a singular piece of hose going from the outlet flange on the back of the head right to the inlet flange on the other side of the head. So seems best to at least drain until its level with those two places. Might be best to do the whole thing though since I’m not 100% the coolant that’s been in there is the right stuff anyway.

This might be a silly question, but I’ve learned to swallow my pride and ask the dumb ones, hah. I’ve just rebuilt my heater box (which became way more involved and expensive once I found out the valve was missing, bracket broken and fan was dead) that was sitting in the trunk of my 02 when I bought it. I have it mounted back up in the car, but before I yank off the bypass coolant hose that is looping back, do I need to drain the coolant out of the car? The water valve should prevent it all from coming out, right?

My fault. I'm looking for the valve specifically for a 1973. The core measures 18mm OD so pretty confident its orginal to the car. And from what I understand that is the larger valve.

Ideally working unless I can be pointed toward a rebuild kit, but they seem hard to find. Rebuilding my box the PO yanked out and it does not have the valve. Willing to a pay a fair price, but trying not to spend a fortune on a new one. Thanks

My 73’s has a little bit of Carolina squat in the rear. It’s sits quite a bit lower. Yes, some if it is all the tools I keep in the trunk for working on it haha, BUT if has always sat a bit lower in the rear. The one of the POs was clearly tracking or autocrossing and it has an upgraded bilstein suspension, springs, sway bars, bushings etc, all seem in good condition albeit stiff. But Mostly I’d just like to get is so it sits more squarely front to back. It just looks better IMHO. Is there are relatively simple way to accomplish this? I’d read spring pads are one option. I also have two aluminum spacers (picture below) that another thread said could be used. I’ve done ZERO suspension work on this car since I’ve gotten it, so I guess I’m not super clear on where I would need to put these. Underneath the existing pads? Thanks, as always.

So just to follow up because I don't like when threads are left hanging. All great info which has helped me understand more deeply how the distributors works. I think the cap had been put on backward by the PO. The ignition cables we reverse of what the cap positioning tang should have been, and likely the source of the clicking. Great catch @Son of Marty. However given the visual condition of the rest of the distributor, I pulled the trigger and ordered the 123 Bluetooth Dizzy. When I pulled the old one out, there was rubbing noise within the dizzy when I spun it, so it was due for rebuild/replacement. I also pulled out the Crane PS51 coil and replaced it with a new blue Beru coil (apparently the Bosch is hard to find right now everywhere). Put those both in, retimed the engine with a timing light (again something new I learned that was kind of fun), and now she's running even better than before without the clicking or chugging on the short trip I did around the block. Still need to tweak the advance curve and go on some longer drives, but overall pretty stoked. Given the condition of the old dizzy, next I'm going to swap out all the plugs, do a valve adjustment, and clean the Weber 38 which is looking a little gunky. Thanks all who commented. I've been part of other vehicle forums, and this one is by far the most generous to us newbies.

As usual, you all are legends, glad I asked instead of just throwing in a new rotor and cap. Few different avenues to go down now here. But main thing I'm hearing is that the whole thing overall needs some love. Thanks!

Ok this helps, thanks. I'm learning how this all works along the way (which is why I got the 2002 as a project anyway). So after a quick crash course on distributors, as well as the XR3000, I figured out how to recheck the timing so it's firing correctly. I'll give that a go along with refreshing the whole distributor, I think the lube and springs are definitely dried up and affecting the weights, at least until it warms up. It bogs quite a bit at low rpms as well when cold. So I'm starting to connect the dots of issues a little better I think, BUT now you have me considering a $500 distributor that looks VERY cool and customizable🫠 And I am a sucker for that.

So I'm working my way through this 73' I got a few months back, and have noticed a loud clicking noise that goes along with the engine revs. It's *seems* that it's coming from the dizzy, because as I move my ear and camera around the engine bay (video), it's definitely loudest in that area. So I pulled out the distributor cap and found quite a bit of wear, I have no clue when it was changed last. I should mention there is Crane XR-3000 electrical ignition and PS91 coil installed by one of the previous owners. So I'm going to get a new cap and rotor clean up the shaft/sensor area, and new plugs probably while I'm there (edit: what plugs should I be using with this setup), I already did all the spark plug wires which were looking shoddy. You can see major wear on the rotor an cap. Beside replacement of the rotor and cap, after looking at these photos and hear the video, any think I'm missing that I should take care of, change, or recommended parts given my setup. I get the sense the the rotor was not sparking evenly underneath the cap given the varies pitting and burn marks. But who knows when the were replace last. Thanks in advance.

I know this thread is probably dead, but was the clicking ever solved? I seem to be having similar issues.

Those aren't the main feed. There is a thick 00 or 2(?) gauge behind those smaller ones on the solenoid post, you can see it in the first pic and very left corner of pic 2. The ground in the trunk is also as thick. That would indeed be insane haha.

Thanks all for the suggestions and tips so far. So I went out and started playing around again. The other smaller gauge ring connector coming off post with the single red wire has a 30a inline fuse going to a small bus and then off to a relay. (Pics 1,2,3) Then there are the two red wires coming into a Y and singular O-ring it that is on the post. (Pic1, left side) When I played with these two wires I was able to get the engine to die and the dash lights to come on and off. I tried to follow where these went to but lost track in jungle of hodge-poge wiring. Where do these run to? Ignition? Would that cause the car to think its off and drop power maybe? (Pic 4&5&6) Anyway there was a little corrosion on the ring connector and wire so I chopped it off and put on a fresh lug and heat shrink. I couldn't get the car to die with the same wiggle test, so it seems like a suitable band-aid for now at least. Once I get a bus bar I think I'll give the two wires separate lugs- I can already see a little corrosion beneath the yellow connectors which seem a bit janky. Will update if the problem comes back right away.

Ok great, this helps narrow, wasn't fully sure if it could have that affect or not.

I yes it's ground to a post in the trunk beneath the floor, I checked that as well yesterday. And then there is another very large ground wire up in the engine bay from the block to body. @Mike I Haven't checked the crimps however, so I'll check those next as well. Luckily I have some lugs and heat shrink in the case those need a replacement.

Fairly new 2002 owner here, so be gentle🤣 My 02 has lost electrical power a few times now while out driving and the whole car shuts down, leaving me trying to coast to get off the road. Usually it will not restart right away. When trying to restart sometime the dash lights come on (sometimes not), but even then there is no crank, not even a click. And then out of nowhere it would eventually first right up and I'd clench my butt cheeks driving it home. So I did all the usual cleaning of connections, grounds, and even cleaned the ignition switch wiring. I also bought a new battery because it was due anyway. Well after all this, the problem persisted, but I did hear one single crank yesterday, which led me to check the starter solenoid again, which I just cleaned the leads on. I wiggled the positive wire with the car in the on position (not started) and was able to get the dash light to come on and off again. I also got the car to fire up, went back to wiggle the battery lead on the solenoid post (below), and got the engine to die and loose power, recreating what happens on the road. So, with all of the collective knowledge here: Do we think it could be the battery lead wire? Battery sits in the trunk, but battery is new and terminals clean. It seems in good condition and I cleaned it up the lead that attaches to the solenoid post yesterday before this test. Plus its pulling +12V and ~13.5V at idle. Or is it probably solenoid going bad since this is the junction where all the electric flows from. The actual started motor seems fine when it has juice. Is there a test I'm missing to determine if its good or bad? I'm still getting used to how everything is wired up. Is there a part to replace just the solenoid, or should I really just replace the whole starter? Part of me prefers the solenoid because its easier haha, but from searching its not clear that there is an individual part available that's compatible. Appreciate the help and insight! Happy to post a video if that helps troubleshoot at all.

Appreciate the response. I ended up getting them already hah. I really like them and feel much safer being able to see much better, especially since I'm in LA and there are a lot of pedestrians where I live. Just need to dial in the aim a little better still.

Shot you an email. Thanks

Looking for a replacement speedometer spring and needle. After taking mine apart to do the "Speedo Repair", it fixed the odometer/tripometer and got that running again, but because my needle is broken it seems the spring that returns it to 0mph has unwound (the spaghetti mess behind coming out the front.) Anyone have an extra or know where to pick one up potentially? And any tips on putting a new one in:) Thanks.

So how do you like the Retrobrights? I definitely want to go the LED route, just trying to decide what to get.