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RJT79

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Everything posted by RJT79

  1. RJT79
    Good to hear, I think they make some of the best repro parts for our cars. Tried to install the URO version once myself and once by a professional using 2 different types of 3M gasket adhesive, but it eventually started falling off anyways.
  2. RJT79
    I’d also recommend BimmerHeads in Santa Clarita, very thorough group of guys, but a little further from Pasadena.
  3. RJT79
    Yes, you’re right, this is the URO seal. But this is my 2nd attempt on it. The first attempt, I didn’t use the right adhesive, and I haven’t trimmed the seal down a bit. So the first time it was actually hard to close the door, and leaving a big gap between door and body panel. The 2nd attempt, I’ve found the right adhesive AND trimmed down the thickness of the seal. Now it closes with ease, and much nicer gap. So if adjusting the catch on the body is what I need, should I still adjust it outward? I feel like I should do the opposite as it’s catching too much, as the door is now closing at a much closer position to the body now?
  4. RJT79
    After installing the new door seal, door closes much closer with much smaller gap between the door and body. But the door can’t be open from the outside handle anymore. I had to climb in from the passenger side, and push it open from the inside while holding inside door release. I’ve checked that there’s no adhesive sticking anywhere on the door. any suggestions? I can’t confirm this, but my guess is that the door latch is now catching the door at much closer towards the end of it, and might have to be adjusted?
  5. RJT79
    After installing the new door seal, door closes much closer with much smaller gap between the door and body. But the door can’t be open from the outside handle anymore. I had to climb in from the passenger side, and push it open from the inside while holding inside door release. I’ve checked that there’s no adhesive sticking anywhere on the door. any suggestions? I can’t confirm this, but my guess is that the door latch is now catching the door at much closer towards the end of it, and might have to be adjusted?
  6. RJT79
    I haven’t been able to find a new replacement. I’ve reached out to MVP and they told me that they’re planning on making their repro version sometimes next year. If you have to keep everything genuine, re-anodizing it seems to be the only way to go. Be prepared that it’s not going to be cheap to get it stripped and refinished.
  7. RJT79
    Sorry to bring back an old thread, but part 61311357001 will not work on a 74 tii? On RealOEM, it gave like 3/4 different parts for options for wiper and turn signal stalk. Can someone clarify which PN I’ll need for replacing the turn signal and wiper stalk on a 74?
  8. RJT79
    Since you have the car down to the shell it’s easy to get the drilled rivets out. If you drill out the unwanted rivets, does the broken river falls into the car somewhere unretrievable?
  9. RJT79
    PM me, tried messaging but said you can’t receive PMs. I’m local to you.
  10. RJT79
    So my door seal is already off, replacing that too. So the window seal is 51-36-7-441-112 has to be removed. The quarter panel trim has to have it rivers drilled out to remove. Does the rear vent window have to be removed to replace the quarter panel trim?
  11. RJT79
    Hello, I know I’ve searched for this topic, my B pillar chrome trim is badly damaged and needs replacement. I have the reproduction pieces from MVP. in order to replace the b pillar trim, does the rubber gasket directly next to it, and the connecting chrome quarter panel trim have to be removed? The bottom chrome quarter panel trim is directly touching the B pillar trim. I imagine even if the B pillar can be removed, the quarter panel trim makes it pretty snug.
  12. RJT79
    Thank you both for the help. My question is if the plug is the right size, how does it start leaking?
  13. RJT79
    So I have a transmission fluid leak on my tii. Took a picture of the transmission drain and all I see is thread but not a bolt. Am I missing the plug completely?
  14. RJT79
    Does any one have any pics on how the wiring should be connected on the clock side?
  15. RJT79
    Thank you both very much. Will take out the cluster on my next days off.
  16. RJT79
    Hello, can someone shed some idea on why my dash clock light stays on after engine is turned off? It’s a 74 tii. And should I pull the battery off so it won’t kill the battery? I drive it about once a week. Thanks.
  17. RJT79
    Hello all, just picked up a new 74 tii. Would like to bring it to someone experienced with these cars to have it looked over, anyone with any recommendations? TIA
  18. RJT79

    2002AD

    RJT79 replied to its55's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02

    If I’m local to 2002AD, do you guys still recommend against using him for parts? How about for servicing and maintenance? And I’ve always had good experience buying from ECS
  19. RJT79
    Damn, that sounds straight up like the seller lied. From 2022 from a dealer, to this guy, there’s obviously no uncle that owned this. Good job Les.
  20. RJT79
    I’ve also reached out to him via text, and he did send me a few pictures via text. Very blurry pictures. Stated that the car is in excellent driver’s condition and all services are up to date, but when I asked for proof of the services, he said he doesn’t have any. I generally avoid driving to LA or Beverly Hills for any reasons, so if it was closer to me I wouldn’t mind going to check it out. If anyone is interested in it, I don’t mind doing a proxy drive by to check it out for anyone here on my days off.
  21. RJT79
    Please don’t take anything I said in the wrong way, I genuinely appreciate all the wise words that was mentioned. All in all every thing that everyone said is something that should be considered when looking at a car of this era. I’m obviously trying to do my due diligence to protect myself in as many ways as possible, with NYNick’s suggestions to put the said car on the forum to be critiqued and discussed, I’m glad that it helped some of the other members learn a few things about the vin numbers while we’re at it. I’ve had the car looked by a professional third party inside, out, top and bottom. The car definitely isn’t perfect, its heater blower is out, dash light isn’t on, one of the rear brakes is leaking fluid, and the reverse light wasn’t on in reverse. But I made sure the dealer would address those things before I committed to it. The main concern for me was rust and mechanical, which the 3rd party put it in writing that it didn’t have any major mechanical, cosmetic or structural issues.
  22. RJT79
    Exactly, I really don’t see why someone will not buy a car based on those things alone, since it’s nearly impossible that these stickers, stamps, plates can remain pristine enough to be legible after 50 years of oxidation and buildup chemicals/minerals. I’m not a car collector, and to judge the car solely based on those things, and not the overall package and condition.
  23. RJT79
    If these are all the numbers in question, then this is seriously the most ridiculous things that adds value to a car. I could easily think of at least 3 different ways to reproduce these stamps, and I’m not even in the business of forgery.
  24. RJT79
    It is currently on a dealer’s site in Missouri and was also on eBay. The dealer’s name is Classic Car Studio.
  25. RJT79
    Thanks everyone for your input and insight.
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