Pablo M

On 4/29/2024 at 8:48 PM, Mike Self said:

You can take your existing key and modify another lock cylinder so the key will work with it.  I did a column on that; PM me if you'd like a copy.

 

Cheers

mike

Is that the one where you put the mismatched key in the cylinder, then shave off all the little ribs that still stick up? I came across that somewhere in my research. Brilliant!

9 hours ago, Tommy said:

It may be broken but also the screw on the back can loosen and fall down with the tab that actuates locking mechanism. Then it would need just reassembling.

It’s always had trouble unlocking the door as well so probably related. Looks like I have another project lol. 
thanks. 
 

3 hours ago, resra said:

Pablo, if you need a good used door handle complete with the parts you need let me know. I have one for $25

appears I do. I’ll message you when I get home later this week. Currently traveling for work. I have a couple extra handles that came in a parts box with the car, although I’m fairly certain they don’t have cylinders. Let me check. 

1972 2002tii

So this happened today.

Went to unlock door and cylinder just came right out. Slid it back in and still couldn’t unlock the door. 
Unlocked it from inside and door handle itself still works fine. 
 

I did a little research and found this photo from a post by @zinz about a year ago showing a screw holding the cylinder in place. 

I don’t have it in front of me at the moment but in my photo it looks like the cylinder itself might be broken on the rearward part furthest in. I’ll have to check it again tomorrow. 
 

What am I looking at in terms of repair? 

5 hours ago, TodB said:

Just need him to respond (2 emails, one DM) so I can send him money...

I sent him same, couple emails, DMs, also stalked him on FB and when I sent a message there he replied to my email lol.

👆👆 👆

👆  👆👆 

Same.

Pierre took a bit to get back to me but once he did continued communication and shipping was very quick.

2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Have you replaced the ball joints with torn boots?

 

Have you tried adjusting the steering box?

Yes, ball joints replaced with new. 
I have not messed with the steering box. I’ll have to research that. Thanks!

Intercity and Reliable are the high end, go-to companies. Used by most high end auction houses (don’t expect to get them anytime around Pebble Beach/Monterey Car Week as I once did lol).
My experience is a bit more distant but here’s my experiences:

one year ago I shipped enclosed from Massachusetts  to SoCal. Montway. $1850. 
18 months ago I shipped open transport from Tennessee to SoCal, Montway, $1100. 
I requested a quote directly from Montway and also through uShip (Montway also gave me a bid through uShip-was lower). I didn’t commit for several weeks and they kept sending me discounts to get me to commit. 
may experience with enclosed was better, even though both were Montway. Pay more (enclosed) and get better service. Open wasn’t bad just the driver was a PITA lol. 
Both were shipped very quickly. 

 

Enclosed:

Having mostly sorted my starting issues during the week I got to DRIVE the car yesterday! Feels strong, although my point of reference was a dead cylinder prior to this lol. 

New suspension feels appropriately stiff, steering feels light, though a bit loose. Not sure what it's supposed to feel like. Front end suspension bushings are all new. Center link is new, tie rods are not but there's no discernible play in them (which is why I'm not in a hurry to replace them). Steering shaft bushing is old though. I haven't gotten around to replacing that yet, but I have the part. Not sure where else there would be play, or if that's just how the steering feels lol. Running 14x5.5 steelies with 195/60/14 tires for reference. 

Also started sanding the paint. When purchased, the previous owner had 'just' reprayed it. Luckily same original Riviera Blue, but a terrible, cheap paint job. To me it looked like they hadnt even washed or prepped it. When I wash the car the roof, particularly rough, pulls the threads on the microfiber towels lol. Took a 400 grit orbital sander to trunk and roof. HUGE difference. I think it will clean up nice. Not really nice, but driver condition nice. I'll do 400, 800, maybe 1000 or 1200, then hit it with polish. 

Getting happy! 

Photo shows what I’m dealing with on the paint. Horizontal surfaces are like this (hood, roof, trunk). Side panels are better. This shows the test area where I sanded with 400 grit.  It’s more than just orange peel. 

14 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Maybe we should create a forum and establish a support group for the vastly growing population of  "Widows of Former FAQ members" 🙃😄

I don't know if that's needed. Every message has always referred to Rita and her late husband lmao. No other wife names seem to be used.

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

how far was it off and in which direction?

About 4° retarded. 
Plus the low rpm numbers were way low as well on the curve. 

1 hour ago, slowpoke said:

Oh, and Pablo’s idea of set all to 12 and check sounds like a great one!!!  Ingenious!

I wish I could take credit for it lol. That came straight from Ed at 123ignitionusa.com. 
 

13 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

 

In theory, that is suppose to happen when you setup the 123 Ignition distributor for the first time.  You setup your motor to TDC on the #1 compression stroke, stab the 123 distributor with the rotor position in relatively the same position as your old distributor, hook up the wires, turn on the ignition and slowly turn the 123 distributor housing counter clockwise until the green light comes on, then lock the distributor down.

 

There are 3 tunes in the blue book for Tii cars.  (ROW, US and German market cars adjusted for lead content).  The US tune doesn't have a lot of advance at idle, so for your starting issues, I might try the middle of the ROW tune to start.

 

1000 - 2 to 7 degrees

1500 - 12 to 17 degrees

2000 - 18 to 22 degrees

2500 - 24 to 28 degrees

2700 - 28 degrees

 

You can use your variable timing light to verify that the advance at any RPM is matching the advance in your tune.

 

Mark92131

 

 

Your description of install is exactly what I did. Even with that he said you should sync the dizzy and actual timing as it could still be a few or more degrees off. When you turn and get the green light that can be a small range. So when I went back and checked the actual timing it was off by about 4°. 
and on his suggestion I added advance to the lower revs similar to the ROW numbers you posted. 
 

As of last night it started much easier and ran much better, especially after syncing the timing. I want to check again tonight or tomorrow for how it starts again when cold. But I’m excited! 

On 4/15/2024 at 9:04 PM, Son of Marty said:

Your alternator is fine what you need is a new voltage regulator.

@Son of Marty new Hella voltage regulator just installed now. Dash light still stays on. Thought I should check the belt tension as I do think I left it a bit loose, out of spec. Checked it and it had come completely loose! The alternator bolt had come loose on the new toothed bracket.  User error for not tightening it down right. No more light! 
 

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

what are the tips?

To add more degrees lower down, 500/1000/1500 should be higher, like 10-12 degrees. He also suggested I delete some points, like 800/1000, 2500/3000/3500 all should be removed. 

He also said to sync the dizzy to the actual car timing. He said to do this, set all the settings to 12 degrees then run the car and time it with a timing light to verify its at 12. If its off then turn the dizzy till you get 12. That syncs the dizzy to actual timing. Then reset the curve. Blunttech had similar feedback on the curve as well. 

51 minutes ago, Hans said:

So it started better before? Did we find out about the coil?

Much better! It still took a bit to start when cold, but nothing like this. It currently takes forever. 

I have been chatting with both Sean at Blunttech and Ed at 123Ignition. Both of which were fantastic and gave me a few tips to try in the coming couple days. 

Now getting more frustrated. 
 

I think dizzy has default programming as I can’t confirm it’s got the original one I wrote. 
trying to change it and I can’t get it to write to the dizzy. 
not getting blue light (but can see green glow from inside so I know it’s got power). 
app shows it connected, both by green light on dashboard page and a check next to it on settings BUT, when these two are present the blue light is not. 
When I wire the dizzy directly to battery, pos to pos, neg to neg per 123 website, I get the blue light but app won’t connect-no green light on app dashboard, can’t find it in settings (endless spinning icon). 
I honestly am at a loss here. 

6 minutes ago, Salamander said:

Hi Pablo!  

 

I have a newish (2 mo old) battery you’re welcome to if you find yourself in MB. 

 

Sally

PS - fun to see you build nearing the finish line. 

Well I can’t pass that up! I can come down and pick it up this week. I’ll message you about availability. If I can eliminate any variables it’ll help! 

2 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

Is your motor turning over more slowly than before? You might want to try 10 degrees advance at start.

Not turning over slowly. Turns over  as before, not too fast or slow. Turns over normally. It just won’t start. First handful of cranks (each about 5-10 seconds) seem like no fuel, just cranking. Then it starts to sound like it wants to fire. Then more and eventually starts. 
started easily before. Only change was dizzy. 

1 hour ago, Hans said:

Eleven year old battery that sat a lot. I'd be replacing that. Did you mean 12.6? I doubt it will hold a charge.

It’s working so far so I’ll not change it until it’s a problem. I’ve had to recharge it a few times due to constant attempts at starting it over the last year, as I’ve worked on it. 
correct, 13.6. Yesterday it was at 14 off, 13.6 when running. 

1 hour ago, Hans said:

Did you set for Tdc?

Yes. I set the engine to tdc by checking the cam gear alignment (removed the valve cover) and the old distributor rotor was at the #1 lead. 
Magen I installed the 123 I followed the instructions on setting it up and the green light was already on when I powered it up. I turned it slightly ccw and it went off right away. Came back on when I returned it to position. 
 

once running it sounds fine. It’s just cold start is worse now with 123. 
 

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

The connection on the green and red wire at the front of your resistor needs attention and your starter bypass relay has wires missing from it.

Yes but it was like that before and it ran fine. Still runs fine now once started. It’s starting it that is a problem. 

11 hours ago, Schnellvintage said:

What voltage is at the coil when starting?  It could to be to low from a weak charged battery.  What coil are you using? Is the resister still being used in the circuit, while cranking?  Is the battery fully charged?  Might need more advance at stating.

 

 

I attached the multimeter to the coil + and - while cranking and at the start of cranking it read 1.15, then went to 0.5. This was with the multimeter set to 20V. Same setting used to check the battery which was at 13.6 with ignition off. 
 

the coil:

6 hours ago, Schnellvintage said:

What voltage is at the coil when starting?  It could to be to low from a weak charged battery.  What coil are you using? Is the resister still being used in the circuit, while cranking?  Is the battery fully charged?  Might need more advance at stating.

 

 

All good questions.  I'll check the voltage at the coil when I get back to the garage with an extra pair of hands. I'll post a photo of the coil. Its red and was in the car when I purchased the car 18 months ago. I have PO records to when new, possibly incomplete, and only mention of a coil being replaced is 1997. Not sure the resistor but I'll post a photo. 
Battery looks like it was replaced in 2013, but sat the entire time since it was replaced. I had battery recahrged and seems to hold a charge ok. Still showing 13.6v across battery posts when off. 

6 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

Pablo, the TII's use less advance down low. This is the curve on my 1972 tii

 

Thanks for this. I thought I had gotten my numbers from someone also with a tii. Maybe it was a square tail tii? Dunno but I'll try your numbers and see what happens.  Thanks.

I installed the 123+ Bluetooth dizzy. Now it’s VERY hard to start. Like 20 cranks when cold. I exaggerate, but it’s a lot. 
started much easier before the 123. Once running it runs like before. If I turning off and restart it it starts quickly. If I let it sit for a little while it’s hard to start again. 
 

current situation:

-1972 2002tii

-new Kingsborne wires, new Bosch correct plugs, rebuilt head. 
-suspect a faulty voltage regulator as when running its not charging (red L light steady on). @Son of Marty diagnosed it as bad. Have one on order. Don’t know if related. 
 

Followed directions to set up custom settings for dizzy and “wrote” to dizzy. Blue light on and app connected. 
set up dizzy with these numbers (from research here):

500    6

800.   6

1000.  15

1500.  20

2000. 25

2500. 28

3000. 30

3500. 32

4000. 32

8000. 36

what could be causing hard starting? Where do I start? 

This week I installed the 123+ Bluetooth distributor. Didn’t start easily and realized it’s not connecting and didn’t take the settings. Need to figure out how to get the blue light to turn on. Will try direct wires from +/- on battery to same on coil per 123 website. Car runs though. Drove it around a bit. 
 

Also discovered my alternator light stays on. Belt is loose but multi meter also shows 14.0 with ignition off, 13.8 with engine running. So I think the original alternator didn’t survive my replacing the bushings. New alternator likely.
 

Also discovered my starter is going out. Lots more times I got grinding instead of turning the flywheel. So there’s that.
 

On the bright side I drove the car and looks like I’m close to getting it on the road regularly.  
Also put my old race numbers on the car. All my project/second/track cars run my same number from when I raced. it’s a vanity thing lol. 
 

In the midst of installing the dizzy.

Couple questions for those that have installed a 123+ Bluetooth, and bonus if it was on a 72 tii.

Background: 1972 2002tii, consulted with Sean at Blunttech (awesome dude, super helpful on many fronts) to get me the correct dizzy for my car. My car has red coil, and is stock.

I read many threads here on FAQ, read the install instructions on 123 website, watched the two YouTube videos commonly referenced in the previous info. 

Seeing conflicting directions on how to wire the three wires. The best info I can find, and how I have wired it is this:

Red- Pos on coil

Blue-Neg on coil

Black-direct to chassis ground

Questions:

1. Is that the correct orientation of the wires? On the 123 website says black direct to battery neg post. But everywhere else says just to ground. I assume its fine to ground. 

2. Assuming 1 is yes...Prior to turning ignition on and turning the dizzy to set the light, does the black not get connected (to chassis ground) or the blue (neg on coil)? If blue, does the black get connected or not. 

The more I read the more it seems the coil neg is the one not to be connected. One of the videos is not bluetooth so only has two wires, red and black, with black going to neg coil. And in that example, black is not connected. All other instructions say, "do not connect black wire", but on mine the black is chassis ground. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

1) Amber/Clear/Smoked  -amber first, clear second
2) Willing to pay $80.00 for first 100 pairs and $70.00 for second 100 pairs if market is still hungry for round 2? Yes 
3) Send payment "Friends and Family" only on PayPal? Yes/no-  yes
4) Approve of my selling format on 2002FAQ For Sale forums? Yes/No- yes
5) Any other questions you might have place here please.- no other questions 

Finished up the wiring for my driving lights. 
Installed IE front sway bar

Got my very high quality FAQ shirt! 
 

Id love the following:

Image 3 - Rallye Monte Carlo 1972 

Image 10 - Motor-Und-Sport-Club Sulfeld A V (red over blue with fox)

Image 13 - Fahre Mit Herz heart shaped and Green Nürburgring on checkered background

$40?