slowbert

I picked up some new sunroof drain hose from Home Depot.  For the front ones, I fished a wire puller from the bottom, then pushed the tubing over the wire puller.  Much easier than I expected.

Also much easier than expected: the headliner.  Just take your time with it.  It has been a bit chilly in Colorado, so I cranked up a propane heater in the garage and got it to a toasty 85F to let the headliner settle in after stretching.

Finally, built a replacement package tray and covered it with vinyl from Hobby Lobby.  I'll use the same vinyl for the A and B pillars. 

6 hours ago, Mike Self said:

I don't think that's the correct part.  #15 in this illustration is a short rubber U-channel that clips into part #18, which is a roller bracket that keeps the trailing edge of the window on its track, part

#19.  It allows the bracket to attach to the glass and hold it in place.

 

I believe what Slowbert wants is the felt track that presses into the trailing edge of the vent window frame.  I can't find it in the parts book either, but I just bought some not too long ago to install on my '73 (and did a column about it); I don't remember if what I bought was specifically for a 2002 or was "universal" but it was readily available.

 

The description in the 2002AD catalog (described above) is in fact the correct part; in Blunt's catalog, the description is correct, but the part number refers to part #15 above, which is at the trailing edge of the glass, not the leading edge.

 

mike

I sent an order to Blunt and a follow up email (which was answered within an hour on a Sunday).  They say it is the part I need and that the part number is correct.

@'76mintgrün'02 Thank you so much!  Hiding in plain sight.

RealOEM does not appear to have a part number for the window gasket at the leading edge of the door glass.  Or at least I am unable to find it.

Anybody know this part number so I can get a pair of new ones?

I have been avoiding the garage during the single-digit temps over Dec/Jan.  I had a lot of pent-up energy.  I spent the week refurbishing the heater box (on my dining room table) and installing it this weekend.  Also, got the pedal box completed and installed, and cleaned up the instrument cluster.

I had read about people complaining about installing the pedal box, but thankfully the motor is still out of the car.  I could not imagine the headache of doing it with the motor in place.  I was able to stand in the engine bay and get it in position.

One of the smartest things I did when I started this restoration was to buy a zinc/cad plating kit from Caswell.  There is nothing like the bling of shiny gold parts, even when nobody will ever see them, like in the heater box.  Or, the hood latch assembly below.

1 hour ago, Fortlauderdalian said:

Is the pattern on the bottom seat supposed to be wider than the top? 

That's one of those questions you don't ask your wife.

On 2/12/2023 at 12:36 AM, zambo said:

I totally and successfully refurbished mine - and as some on FAQ can attest - I'm not the most skilled on the forum. It's quite a lot of fun and you can get all the parts to refurb the blower motor, seals for the box, valve kit, cables (if needed) all here from trusted vendors.

 

This guy (in SF from memory) is in that link posted above has a range of blower replacement parts and a how-to if memory serves - https://prdesignsf.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fheater-valve-mount-reinforcement-kit. Steve (BluntTech)  has all sorts of bits for it as well. 

 

I am in the middle of rebuilding my heater box using everything from PRDesigns, including a new fan and motor. 

Not a difficult process. 

I needed the big tubes of JB Weld to get the plastic pieces back in shape.  I'll post pictures once I get into the reassembly part.

I have a '72 with a butchered-up five prong wiper motor harness.  The PO chopped it up, ran some extra wires from somewhere, and installed an older model wiper motor.  In my (thinly populated) parts collection, I have one more older-style wiper motor, but no new wiper motor with the five prong connector.

*Is there a wiring diagram that shows the wiper motor with the five prong connector?*

I'm trying to tidy up the chopped up wires and make sure everything is connected the way it should be.

I found this article that talks about converting an old-style harness to a new five prong motor, but I need the opposite.

Overkill is good.

This is the current state for me. I bought a cheap relay box off of Amazon and used it for high beams, low beams, horn, fuel pump, and an electric fan (if I get one later). 
 

I’m getting everything connected and tested, then going to clean up the wiring and tape it up with friction tape. 

My goal is reliability and, to the extent I can achieve it, simplicity. 
 

I bought a printer for shrink wrap so I can label all the wires as well. 

I have a 72 as well - and am adding relays to the lights in my restoration.

Your relay is for the high beams and it is not stock.

The three white wires that are bundled together in the connector hanging to the left of the relay is for the high beams.  The white wire from the battery to the relay probably feeds the high beams when the relay is closed.  There should be a white wire from the firewall (it originates at the high/low beam switch) to the relay which trips the relay.

The 72s had a separate relay for the low beams, which should be next to the voltage regulator on the left side of the picture.  There should be yellow/green and yellow/black output wires that go to the low beams on the headlights.  Check those connections if you have problems on low beams. 

The 72 did *not* have a relay for the high beams, but did for the low beams, which is odd.

The Bosch automotive relays (or their Chinese replacements) are cheap and readily available, maybe $3/ea, and all have the same labeling on the terminals.  Easy to find and easy to replace if you are troubleshooting.

9 hours ago, flagoworld said:

 

My uncle always said: "An oil leak is only a problem when it stops."

22 minutes ago, kiva667 said:

This makes me curious. I partly grew up in New England and bought my very first car there while in college. Where is it exactly that one only uses turn signals to irritate other drivers lol...

In New England (read: Boston), using a turn signal always invites other drivers to cut you off.  The rule is look, maneuver, *then* signal if you want to flip them the bird for not cutting you off.  There is a reason for the term "Massholes," but at least they are up front about it.

In Seattle, the rule is signal first, maybe bother to look, then get angry and flip people off when there is no room to maneuver.  Very passive aggressive. And they like to drive the speed limit in the left hand lane.

8 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Another long, involved explanation...but you asked.

 

mike 

This is what I love about the FAQ. Thanks, Mike!

8 minutes ago, Lorin said:

Agree 100% 

 

I really like the right hand switch on 2002s. 

I agree as well. The only thing you really need on the left side are high low beams and the turn signals. You need those while shifting up or down. 
 

The right side is ok for wipers. 
 

I’m thinking of leaving the wiper multifunction switch on the right side but only connect the wipers to it.

 I’m trying to work out how to wire this up and still make it reversible to the ‘stock’ design. Any ideas are welcome on how to do this. 

I always thought the ‘72 right side wiper switch with the dash mounted speed selector was bizarre. Not the height of German engineering, but I assumed it was an accumulation of weird regulations and simple technical debt. 
 

I also agree that I could get used to the right hand side turn signals. Besides, I hardly use them in reality. 
 

My thinking was to make the drivable by other people in the family, such as one of my kids who will eventually inherit the car - or the poor sod who buys it at the estate sale. 
 

I am inclined to mount the square tail turn signal on the left side and build new connectors on the wiring harness and switch. 
 

I have to say it pains me to have square tail parts on my roundie as a matter of principal. 
 

Have other people done this modification too?

I am restoring my 1972 2002. The PO yanked out the left hand steering column switch, which originally just was the high/low beam. 
 

Originally, the turn signal was on the right side, which is not conventional and (for those who happen to use turn signals) can break off the left switch when trying to use the turn signals. 
 

(I grew up in New England and never use turn signals - unless I want to infuriate other drivers, but that is neither here nor there.)

Anyway, I bought a left hand column switch from a later model (unintentionally) that includes both turn signals and high low beam. 

My questions:
 

1. What is the history behind these goofy switches and when did they change?

2. Is there a ‘simple’ wiring diagram for swapping from the old style to new style left hand column switch?

On 12/6/2022 at 2:16 PM, Lorin said:

I wonder how you say inboard and outboard in Chinese. 

Outboard means a higher butt line (or buttock line) and inboard means a smaller butt line.  At least that is using the water line/station line/butt line terminology of aerospace.

11 minutes ago, Labphoto said:

Did the OP contact MVP? They are very responsive and fully support the 2002 community. 

I have not contacted MVP. Yet. 

I didn't notice this at first, but this image (taken from the thread mentioned above) shows the same spring loaded connector *mounted on the outboard side of the frame* whereas mine has the same connector mounted on the *inboard side of the frame*.  At first glance, this looks like an original turn signal, just judging from the pitting.

I don't know if I can remove and replace the connector from its swaged installation, but this solution would be the optimal - and should be the revision that MVP needs to do.

17 minutes ago, jimk said:

When I changed those lenses to the euro style, I drilled the rivets that held the bulb bracket and swapped the oe ones into the new ones with pop rivets.  Removed the pop rivet nail and mounted the light assembly in the fender as original.

This is a winner. The screw openings are about 3.4mm and a 3/16 pop rivet is about 3mm ID. Clean it up with a drill and it should work. 
 

I will replate the bracket and it will be better than new. 
 

Many thanks! (I’ll post a picture when I do the modification, probably over the weekend.)

12 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

I'd also have a chat with the maker/supplier.  For that kind of money, they ought to fit right out of the box...

 

mike

Agreed.  I'm surprised that @Forrest_KoogleWerks didn't find this problem in his video review of the MVP lights.  And I am surprised that I could not find this problem anywhere on the forum.

I tried them in both factory and aftermarket fenders, and both had fitment problems.

6 minutes ago, Lorin said:

I think I would try drilling out the rivet that holds the spring connection and removing the spring connection. Add a  male spade terminal on top of the one that goes to the bulb facing the other direction and rivet the whole thing back together. Here is a rough sketch. 
 

This is what I was thinking, too.  Exactly.

The only real reason why they have the funny spring connectors is that the wires feed through a rubber tube that bridges from the headlight bucket area, through the wheel well, and into the light cavity.  The spade terminal does not fit through all that, but I would rather have it work than be a slave to authenticity.

17 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

But before going through that, try bending the ears on the spring clip 'till they're nearly flat, and then see if it clears the fender.

Thanks for the background on this.  Mine is a '72.

I will try bending the ears of the spring clip and see what I can do.  That is a good idea.

I'm hesitant to cut into a brand new $425 set of lights...

2 hours ago, jimk said:

 Isn't the big bulb dual filament working as clearance lamp and turn lamp?

The original bulb was a dual filament bulb with two connections neatly tucked away.  You can see it in the picture above.

The MVP replacement has two bulbs, each with their own connection.

I am thinking of making a little copper tab that rivets to the plastic piece and is a spade connector for the wire.  I will have to add the spade connector after the wire is run.

Dunno if this will work out or not.