slowbert

57 minutes ago, bublinki said:

Keep the bumpers, the look so cool!

First time I have ever heard that line...

Is that what square light guys tell themselves when they go to sleep at night?

I had a guy in Gilcrest paint my '72.  Did a reasonably good job and was very reasonably priced ($7500).  I did the welding, he did the prep and bodywork.  I paid cash, bought all the paint, and he was reasonably prompt (about 6 weeks).  Has a four bay shop and works mostly on old muscle cars.  He does not have a website, sometimes answers the phone, and works alone.  A buddy had him paint a couple hot rods and introduced me.

Looking at @Lucky 7's list and comments above for nearby shops, I am very happy I found him.

If you want an intro, PM me.

1 hour ago, SydneyTii said:

Some must die for others to live…….. something like that😜

I think the proper quote is "no child left behind."

4 minutes ago, Cruzr said:

The amount of effort and expense to get it in shape is far more than the value when completed.

This is the sad truth about this hobby.  You will spend $40K to rebuild a car that could sell on BAT for $25K.  And you will work for free.

All of the rust on the car above is solvable - with patience, attention to detail, and lots of replacement sheet metal (and probably a good bit of fabrication).  The real question is whether you want to take up the challenge and put in the hours in it.

And there is no shame in saying "this is too much for me."

Worse than where I started, but not much worse. Expect to spend $4-8k or more on steel from W&N and at least that much on welding/grinding equipment. Budget $30-40k?

It will be more fun than you can imagine - in a good way. 
 

However, if you decide to sell those bumpers, I am in the market…

34 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Harry’s

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/137156-upgraded-door-brake-sets-bmw-1600-2002/

I think these are the bottom version in my picture above.  (The bottom one came with the black cover.)

The bottom version came in a plastic bag marked "Meyle".

I thought that the middle version was stock and the top version was BMW's upgraded/replacement. 

Can anyone validate this?

Where I live, it can get very windy on occasion. When my ‘72 was parked outside several years ago, the wind whipped the drivers door open, broke the door brake, and dented up a bunch of sheet metal. 
 

So I bought a couple door brakes. Then I bought some more during the restoration. 
 

My question is: which of these are the preferred version of the door brake?  
 

The top one seems to operate well, but does not let the door open as wide as the others. I have had the center one on the drivers side but ran across the bottom one. 

My only requirement is that the door open and close smoothly and quietly. And that I don’t wind up breaking another door brake. 

Ugh.  All that traffic.  Isn't there anywhere you can go where you can open it up on open road?

I installed an aftermarket (MVP) left front fender when redoing my '72 2002.  In general, it seems OK, although it 'feels' a bit more flimsy than the original fender on the right side.

One unanticipated problem came up while doing the hood alignment. 

I used the very well done write up from the FAQ, but I kept dinging the bracket against the fender.  After going back and forth, adjusting things every which way, I noticed that the bracket for the lid support seemed a bit off on the aftermarket fender.

After measuring and comparing the aftermarket fender to the original on the right side, it appears that the bracket on the aftermarket fender is a bit high, which caused the lid support to bang into the fender - making a big scratch.  Once I identified this problem, the bracket needed a bit of adjustment with a die grinder and burr bit to lower the opening at least 1/8in and maybe as much as 1/4in (6mm for non-Americans).  You can see from the picture below that I opened up the slot quite a bit.  It took a couple tries to find the right amount, but with this modification, the lid support does not hit the fender and the hood seats correctly.

I hope this helps someone down the line who needs that aftermarket fender.

Now I have a bit of clean up to do with that giant scratch...

I think I used URO gasket for the front windshield with no problem (by the professional installers).  I also ordered glass online, which my local installers said they could get for about half price.  Their wholesale price was something like $150 and I paid in the neighborhood of $300.  (Of course I would have paid retail even if I bought it from them.)

My local installers said that the Pilkington glass was what they recommend.

Oh, and the gap in the corners - that is what mastic is for.

3 minutes ago, 2002#3 said:

The plastic insulation which surrounds the threaded part suggests the part might have an electrical function.

I would guess vibration isolation is more likely than electrical isolation.

Spent a bunch of hours on Friday, Saturday, and today installing the hood (not quite finished), doors, and lots of miscellaneous items, including finishing up and bleeding brakes. 
 

Whoever invented the pressure bleeder deserves the Nobel prize. Greatest. Thing. Ever. 
 

Finally got to roll it outside and give it a quick wash to get all the dust off it. Now I can clay the finish, polish out the new paint, and apply one of those goofy ceramic coatings before installing the trim. 
 

I would have started it for the first time except I received the straight exhaust for the later years and not the right side exhaust for my ‘72. Ugh. Always waiting on one part or another. 
 

These tires were “newish” when the car started sitting - nearly 20 years ago. They are very cracked and in bad shape, so this week I need to get some new booties for the sled.

Maybe next weekend I can be doing donuts in the Walmart parking lot like a true American with my ‘new’ LSD.  

6 minutes ago, Jorge Silva said:

Correct, with engine running seems to be everything ok.

Agreed.  Your charging system appears to be functioning.  Maybe the output from the alternator is a bit weak, but that may be within specification.  (I am in the process of restoring my 2002, so I don't have an example of a running car to compare.)

As far as the interference problems, you can check the charging system off the list...

25 minutes ago, Jorge Silva said:

Did that a couple of days ago, the voltage was within the parameters and according to the values taken directly from the battery.

I missed the fact that your voltage was with the car off.  Check it again with the car running.  Should be a bit over 13V (which is the output from the alternator that charges the battery).

1 minute ago, Jorge Silva said:

Like this right?

Yes.  This is a good voltage reading - 12.58 volts.  I don't know what the output of your alternator should be, but normally, alternators output about 13.5 volts +/-.

30 minutes ago, Jorge Silva said:

My multimeter doesn't have much scale options for AC voltage.

Switch the multimeter to DC - about 7 o'clock on the switch dial.  

Maybe I am fatalistic, but the original treatments lasted half a century. A few improvements (like the wax treatment) should make it last at least that long again. 
 

I’ll be long gone by then. 
 

Besides, now that the car is restored, it should be garaged instead of left outside - which will likely contribute far more to the preservation than even wax treatment. 

19 hours ago, popovm said:

Mastic? Have a product name or link? I assume you don’t mean this stuff.

 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-314-Ready-Set-Gallon-Premixed-Mastic-Adhesive-12256/305266484?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D23F-023_014_FLOOR_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-2996251-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FLR_TOOLS_PMax_G&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D23F-023_014_FLOOR_TOOLS-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-2996251-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-FLR_TOOLS_PMax_G-71700000102945947--&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UdRY2J0InoJ9E48o-TZjZ0lw&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9MCnBhCYARIsAB1WQVWnKaxSz5oU2gXBA-ysuXBoJuNcoLFXKNKQkxBzIG8uGvVKzmEI59gaAqGZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

This stuff.  My auto glass guys used it.

I had a problem that perplexed me for years.  If my 1990 911 sat outside in the rain, the car alarm would go off and could only be silenced by disconnecting the battery.  It wasn't until I talked to a friend who specializes in Porsches.  He immediately pointed to the lower corner of the windshield and said it was leaking there.  I could never figure out why the floor was wet on the passenger's side (which happens to be where the car alarm is located).  Now it makes sense.

4 hours ago, Jon Popaj said:

Has anyone ever took preventative measures from this rust situation happening again?

A big leak point is the bottom corners of the windshield. Absolutely make sure you use mastic between the gasket and windshield and the gasket and pinch weld. 
 

That one leak ping probably results in the rusted floors, water getting into the A pillars, and water working itself into the rockers. 
 

No water means no rust. 
 

To kill the engine, you will need to kill the ignition, not the battery.  In my set up, the car will continue running when the battery is switched out (if the alternator is generating current).

In eager anticipation of turning the key for the first time since starting my restoration nearly 18 months ago, I picked up temporary tags yesterday.  The lady was ribbing me for letting the registration lapse - for 13 years - and charged me a $100 late fee.

In Colorado, any car built in 1975 or older is exempt from emissions testing.  As much as our state government tries to emulate California's oppressive laws, this little exemption is a welcome reprieve.

I ran *both* positive and negative to the engine bay, so I have twice the length of battery wire (and twice the resistance) as if I had run just the positive cable and grounded the battery in the trunk. 

I upgraded to a 90 amp alternator from an E21 (I think) which deleted the voltage regulator.  I also added a newer model starter that uses more juice.  Figuring 15 ft each direction or 30 feet total, 0 gauge is overkill.  It will never see 90 amps continuous service, and I probably could have used 4 gauge, at least according to this chart:

After reading all the posts about problems with poor grounding, I did home run wiring for all grounds to the terminal in the engine bay.  This included adding a ground from the instrument cluster directly to the negative terminal in the engine bay.  I also added relays for horn, high beams, low beams, fan, and fuel pump.

I have no interest in chasing problems if I can avoid it.

The picture below is the engine bay right now (before getting tidied up.)  Everything seems to work OK, but I haven't tested with the engine running, so I am holding off on the final wrapping of the wiring harness.  The terminals for positive and negative are below the relay box.

The only thing holding me back is the constant waiting for nit picky parts.  Nevertheless, it looks far more pretty now than it has in the 32 years I have owned it.

1 minute ago, Dudeland said:

How is the Red Top working for you?  "0" gauge cable correct? 

Too premature to know.  I *hope* I can start the car this weekend for the first time since tearing it to pieces about a year and a half ago.

I think it was "0" gauge cable - ran it to the front with a couple distribution bars (one positive, one negative).  Used 6 gauge cable from there to the alternator & starter (positive) and engine block (negative).

It isn't obvious to me that the cutoff switch needed to be in the cabin. But I only want it to lock out the battery for extended storage, not to ward off thieves (the manual transmission does that by default).

Also, I did a big fat switch as I like overkill.