DrinkMan

Found this one in Kildeer, IL. Shipping may put you over budget but young people come up with unique ideas (like driving through the night with a U-Haul trailer) to save money.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1323897751849043/

16 hours ago, Chris_B said:

I am mildly skeptical here. We have Alyssa, who says he/she is "a teenager with little experience with cars," and "...my budget is 10,000 do you think that it's possible?" I hope we are not being played, here. We should help all comers, but...

 

 

While in today's world, skepticism is a necessity, I found this realistic. I thought back to when I was a teenager back in the 1970's and had saved from my summer/evening jobs working fast food for my first car. I had $2000 to spend on the car. And if necessary, my parents supported loaning me a few hundred more. I just looked at the inflation calculator and from my $2000 at a teenager to today, it comes out to $10,500. So, for me, that seems right. And when my daughter was a teenager, I helped with her activities if necessary and adding a few thousand to her work saving would have been something I would have loved to do. 

I really hope this is real because I want to believe that there are young men and women wanting to get into our hobby. I have mentored some young folks and had them help out with our collection. One day I sat down with 3 teenage boys that were into cars and offered them $500 to help me remove the engine and transmission from one of my cars and assist with the engine teardown. They jumped for joy and told me they would do it for nothing, just to help with the project. (I paid them, it was worth it)

I've also been doing some searching to see if there is anything like a realistic 2002 car for 10,000 that would be a good project. I was surprised. While they look like challenges, they are out there. on Facebook Marketplace a "brakes don't work" 1976 in North Carolina that runs/drives with what looks like only surface rust; a 1974 one in Florida with an Automatic Transmission (be good to start with that and upgrade to 5 speed someday) with what appears to be non-structural rust on the fenders but a decent interior; and a few more (some were merely yard art).

But there were a hell of a lot of BMW 320i out there. My neighbor was selling his convertible that ran perfect, full records, great transmission, paint that was a 10 footer (zero rust, just faded and panels that didn't perfectly match in different lighting), and seats that needed seat covers for only $2500. I drove that car and it was fantastic and would be perfect for a young person to start with.

23 hours ago, Alyssa said:

If my budget is 10,000 do you think that it's possible? I've been able to find some for under that seem in okay shape, but maybe working on a broken will allow me to learn more? 

Do not buy a cheaper car that you will need to do more work on. In the old car game, always buy the absolute best you can afford (or even spend a little more). No matter how good the car is, it is old an things will break and no matter how good (and I mean, even concours quality), if 50 years old, it is a project car. You will learn. And learn a lot. And have fun.

That is where ours runs. Might get slightly higher after a long highway run and then sitting at intersection for a while on a hot Georgia day. Might get slightly lower on a cool day (under 80 degrees) and easy drive. Our gauge is grounded. 

30 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

 Anyone need a NOS Opel Kadett filter?

 

mike

Which engine/model/ID for that filter? The Rallye Kadett with the 1.9 engine is the same as the Opel GT (although our Opel GT shares the filter with our Ford Fiesta so I've never had any problems finding a filter - as long as I get the shallow version so it doesn't hit anything, just can't trust application guides).

Our first Vintage. Had a great time. No problems parking. The Rally on Thursday was fantastic. Also happy to see other tourings at the event. One was a twin to our Inka.

1 hour ago, tomphot said:

 

This was the second year for our show, turned out great!  I didn't bring my Tii but one of those 356's was mine.  I tried hard to get my 356 group out to the show, 11 showed up.

That 11 were fantastic. You did a great job getting those 356's out. I'm hoping Ernie can get my drool cleaned off that green interior in his 356 convertible.

We had a great time as well. Our little Opel is in the video at 6:15 and the 2000tii touring at 19:45 (very briefly). Met a lot of great people. The organizers did a great job. I heard there were 68 BMW's of which 11 of them were "2002" (including the 1600 & our touring). I was blown away by the Porsche 356 group showing up with some fantastic cars.

We went last year and loved it! We will be there with our '72 touring and a repeat appearance of the Opel GT. 

I strongly recommend that all German car fans attend. Downtown Norcross is a great place for this event. Fun shops, good restaurants, and great cars on display. 

The day we picked it up from the Port of Brunswick and took it to St Simons. 

I've found that waving at drivers of modern versions of our classics is a waste of time. I'll be in our '69 Alfa and will wave to a modern Alfa (not a common sight on the road either) and they never wave back or notice. Same with all of our cars (see signature line). However, I have found that drivers of other old cars will wave back or wave first. We all know the feeling of driving old cars. It is nice to be in that fraternity of drivers of classics. I've had old Corvettes, El Caminos, muscle cars, etc... wave to us when we are out and about. The Triumphs get a lot of waves along with the Opel GT. Haven't had the BMW out enough (only driven it about 500 miles since we got it last month) to see if it gets a lot of attention (a little because of the Inka Orange colour).  Of course, all of them get the attention at the gas station along with all of the questions. Was surprised at one gas station where someone recognized the touring and even was familiar with the name change from 2000 to 2002 on the tourings. 

Just to close out the thread. No big deal getting the driveshaft back in. Thanks for all the suggestions. Nice and straight. Took it for test drives. All good. Also fixed (grounded) temperature gauge and 4-way flasher. Fabricated an adapter for the rear license plate for USA plates to work on EU mounting. Our first 4 days with the car at home have been quite successful. Tomorrows plan is to lift it up again and inspect the newly installed CSB, check everything out. 

My wife who has been assisting with everything has declared that all seem well sorted and will probably drive it tomorrow so I expect that I won't be driving it much anymore. And because this car is well sorted, another car had to start acting up today. The Alfa's clutch started giving me problems today and looks like we need to rebuild the clutch master cylinder. It is a never ending project list around our garage. Fix a car, break a car.

8 hours ago, Tommy said:

Yea, that was the point that makes it actually easier to work with. Looks that the length was made a bit too tall here because the spline was set all the way to the bottom. If it was an inch shorter it would be easy to loosen under car slide a bit in and remove. Installation same thing, automatically sets the length correct (the fine tuning).

You are so right. I wish it was a an inch shorter. Putting the driveshaft back in will not be fun. There is less than a 1/4" of play left. I hope this is the last time we have the driveshaft out but if we ever take it out again, I'll have it shortened.

Thanks @Son of Marty and @tech71 and @TobyB. It was a gland. Slightly hidden under the remnants of the CSB. Put a pipe wrench on it, loosened it. Spline slid out nicely. Off to the press to remove the old CSB. Then put on the new CSB. Then the joy of getting the gland back and tight again (while making sure the driveshaft was the proper length). I made it sound easy but it took my wife and I about 2.5 hours to get it right (I am not going to admit how many times we loosened and redid the gland to get the length right nor all the different things we tried in the shop to help us press on the new bearing). But everyone here has been there, done that. No need to go to the driveshaft shop in the morning. Instead we have the joy of putting everything back in the car. (note, having done the same operations to an Alfa Romeo, this is not as easy. As usual, the Germans make somethings more complicated than the Italians. Not always better, just more complicated.)

It was a good 2002FAQ day. I read through the old threads and was able to repair our 4-way hazard switch and now fixed the CSB. Hopefully tomorrow we will get the temperature gauge to be correct with a better ground.

58 minutes ago, tech71 said:

This is all pure speculation until we can see the opposite side of that CSB.

Not quite sure of "opposite side" so I took a bunch more pictures hoping I got the view you would like. In addition, all of the pictures I take while working on the car I throw into this album (although not all are marked for public, I merely marked all these driveshaft pictures public in case you wanted to see more, and I have pictures of it parked at the Port of Brunswick after the 16 day delay with US Customs along with the "nice" port worker who released the car to me):

Flickr Album for BMW 2000tii touring

We have been trying to figure out the reason for the damage. We purchased the car from an Estate Sale in Vienna, Austria. Very little detailed history of the restoration beyond knowing there was only about 350 km since engine rebuild. So far, we have only found a few problems: some ground issue in dashboard causing fuel gauge problems (I figure that may have been caused by the 19 days crossing the ocean and it is next on our troubleshooting list after driveshaft), 4-way flasher button getting stuck intermittently, and the CSB.

I have a theory - when we picked up the car at the Port of Brunswick and drove it a few miles to St Simons, there was a lot of vibration from the driveline. I found that the transmission rear mount (rubber isolation mount) nut on the bottom had backed off and was about to fall off (the nylock didn't work - I could turn it easily with my fingers). My theory is that the transmission vibration had caused the CSB failure. After I fixed the transmission mount, the vibrations went away and only the thump from the CSB at low speed remained. 

I'm going to review the driveshaft with the shop we use to make sure everything is ok and have them check the balance. I've used these guys before and they do very good work.

Note - forgot to mention - 5 speed transmission w/ limited slip.

Enjoy driving our new 1972 2000tii touring but there was a problem at low speeds with "thumping".  A quick check showed the center support bearing was shot. So, out comes the service manual, read all the (hundreds) of threads here, even watch a YouTube video. I think I'm ready to do this. Under the car, I noticed the driveshaft looked different from all I've seen here on 2002FAQ. I pulled out the driveshaft and it is completely different. There is no bolt and spline. It appears to be a threaded connection. Put it in the vise, grabbed a big bar and attempted to unscrew it. No go. My current thinking is that rather than investing too many more hours into trying to do this, I simply take the driveshaft and CSB to a local driveshaft shop, drop it off and have them take care of it. Has anyone seen anything like this?

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52205429483_cd2b1c4637_z.jpg[/img]

19 minutes ago, 2002#3 said:

I found grounding the back of the instrument cluster (as wisely stated above) helped a lot but not as much as  adding a good, strong ground cable from the block to the chassis.  In fact, it solved 3 or 4 grounding issues.

I noticed that there is a good flat ground strap from battery to engine block and chassis and another one in the trunk. When I get back to the car next week, I'll be looking at every ground I can find. 

Thanks for all the replies.

When we return to car next week, I'll work on grounds and see how that works.

Note - I do know what the break-in oil is. It is a conventional 20w-50 break in oil. I don't remember the brand that the sellers representative told me, it was a German brand. 

Hi,

Been lurking here for a while. A few months ago we purchased a 1972 BMW 2000tii touring from an Estate Sale in Vienna Austria. It was inspected, we had great references from the Austrian 02 club and our correspondence with the  Estate representative was fantastic so we felt good about buying it sight unseen and shipping it over. Well, 3 months later with numerous delays due to the supply chain and shipping issues, we finally got it. The car lived up to expectations as soon as we saw it. Picture below.

One thing that was in the back of my mind is that the engine had been rebuilt about 200 miles ago and was still on break in oil and quite frankly, when I have rebuilt engines, it seems to take about 500 miles to get everything sorted out completely so I was expecting a little learning curve. And sure enough - on the drive from the Port to our local location (about 20 miles), I wasn't happy about the indicated temperature. Note - it was about 90 degrees outside (Port of Brunswick, GA). We brought the car to our vacation home on St Simons Island to learn about it a bit and our original plan was after a day or two of making sure all is ok, drive it the 350 miles home to where we have a full set of tools and a lift so that we can get under the car and go over everything and we would be close to the point of completing break-in and change the oil, retorque the head, adjust the valves, and begin to enjoy the car more.

That temperature is my number 1 priority. So after cooling off in the garage, I tested the coolant. It was highly diluted with just a touch of green antifreeze and a little low. I topped it off, tried my best to burp the bubbles out of the system. I also drained off a liter or so from the bottom of the radiator and it was clean. After filling the system, I restarted the car with the radiator cap off and a thermometer in the fluid at the top. The fluid stayed cold for a while as expected, then when the thermostat opened (top hose got hot), it jumped to 160 - 165 degrees. The indicator was showing at about 70% towards the red (about 1/2 way between mid point and the picture I posted above). It climbed rather quickly to the same as the picture and then crept slowly toward closer to the red. The temperature indicated by the thermometer never exceeded 180 degrees F.  I don't have an infrared thermometer here at our vacation home to check the temperature from top to bottom of the radiator. 

We noticed that when we turned on the headlights, the needle jumped up to a higher indicated temperature. Also, the fluid level dropped (no leaks). We did turn on the heater in the car to get the fluid fully circulating in the system. My theory is that we may have a ground issue with the gauge and that there was a lot of air in the system and the thermometer wasn't fully in fluid. We decided we don't have the confidence to just drive it home yet until we straighten all of this up. 

My questions - how representative of actual temperature of the cooling system is the fluid at the top of the radiator when engine is running? Is the temperature gauge responding to headlights normal or as I think, a concern? 

Any input would be appreciated. 

Dan

This is a long shot. There is a shop in Gainesville, GA that does excellent work. However, they have such a backlog of work, they have limited what work they take on. They rebuilt my Alfa Romeo transmission and did a great job. Last time I was in there, they had about 5 Porsches lined up waiting and dozens of Mazda Miata transmissions waiting. A few BMW transmissions were also in the que but that was 3 years ago. I think they sell parts for the 240 series. Worth a call. The name is Walter Motorsports.

Here is a link:  Walter Motorsports

Good luck with your Solex. If you want to research Weber suppliers more, I use Pierce Manifold a lot for my cars. I don't have a Weber in the BMW (tii). My first Weber was a 32/36 in my Opel Manta in 1978 to replace a Solex. I've been hooked ever since. Pierce does a specific kit for 2002 but I'm not sure it has the correct jets. But you can buy a jet kit from them as well and in the back of the Haynes manual for Webers are some recommended jet sizes.

(note - in my current Opel GT, it has been bored, ported, big valves, custom cam so I don't use a 32/36 but a 38/38 for increased flow. And when I use the air cleaner adapter for Webers, it chokes the flow a bit and my performance suffers but it did not for the 32/36)

I use Hagerty for our collection and setting the value can be somewhat difficult. Someone mentioned that you need to be very critical of the condition of the car. How much would someone really pay for it that does not care how much it cost to get it to that condition? There are a number of tools out there. I use Hagerty's tool to help set our value. Interestingly, every now and then, I get an email from Hagerty asking me to check on the value of one of our cars because it may be undervalued. While I realize that they may just be fishing for higher rates, it is a good reminder and in a few cases, checking recent sales, I had undervalued a few of the cars. 

Hagerty's website shows your car at $16.6k for Fair, $26k for good, $50.2k for Excellent, and $91.8k for Concours. The vast majority of collector cars are rated as "Good" by their description. Without seeing your car, based on your description, sounds like somewhere close to Good on the side of Excellent.

An easy way to find out - put it for sale on Bringatrailer.com and see what it sells for. Opps....then you don't have a car anymore.