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Pdxguy

Kugelfischer
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Posts posted by Pdxguy

  1. On 7/12/2020 at 10:18 AM, TobyB said:

    If you can find the parts, the later system with screws works a lot better,

    and is safer.   Unfortunately, it requires a later gas tank with the longer neck,

    If you have the older tank, could you use an adapter tube to bridge the gap from the end of the fuel filler and the neck of the tank?

  2. 26 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

     

    Ad says 10,000 KM's (6214 miles) since rebuild, so averaging 60 MPH, 100+ hours?  It is licensed for the street, so probably average is more 30mph, double the hours. 

    Aren't race hours considerably harder on engines than highway or city driving? Maybe one of the racer dudes can chime in on maintenance schedules when a car is raced. 

  3. I haven't sourced any of the parts yet. After messaging you I found three brushless, 12" pusher fans as below, as well two PWM units. I think they are stand alone units combining the board you created and the unit from the Ford Fusion. I'm not the most savvy with electronics, would one of the two stand alone units below achieve the same thing and save you some time?

     

    https://www.steeleracingproducts.com/collections/radiator-fans/products/srp-r10012-series-12-high-performance-radiator-fan

     

    https://wizardcooling.com/12-brushless-spal-fan-and-diy-shroud-kit/

     

    https://deltapag.com/products/12-brushless-fan-kit

     

    https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/hf-125-7-khz-pwm-controller

     

    https://www.steeleracingproducts.com/collections/accessories/products/vspeed-controller-radiator-intercooler-variable-speed-control-pwm-connector

  4. Question part 2

    "The challenge with PWM is that aftermarket controllers typically provide a 100 Hz drive frequency, and for good reason.  Making a reliable, high-frequency, high-current driver is expensive and technically challenging.  The Spal fan and many others with brushed motors, like to run at much higher frequencies, around 20 kHz."

     

    Looking to use a brushless pusher fan as I understand they are a bit quieter. How will the use of a brushless fan affect the system you developed? 

     

    Thanks

    Dennis

  5. Using the sub enclosure under the rear seat and will need to hook it up to an amplifier. Planning on moving the battery to either the trunk or under the rear seat. Trying to decide whether to put the amp in the back seat and battery in the rear or the opposite. 

    Considerations include heat from the amp making cooling the car harder if in the back seat, and difficulty jumping the car if the battery is under the seat. Hoping to rig up a way to jump the car from the engine bay if under the seat. 

    Any other considerations/problems?

     

    Thanks

    Dennis

  6. On 3/10/2019 at 9:50 AM, TobyB said:

    I have found that the type of cap is important, too.

    The stock style does not have the valve to re-ingest coolant

    from the overflow.  But most aftermarket ones (Stant is what I use, too)

    do.

     

    I have also found that a stock or e21 radiator will not puke more coolant than it should

    (12% sounds like what I've seen, too) and that while the modern 'completely full'

    system is far better for oxidation, it's only needed for cooling in marginal situations.

    IF you check your coolant weekly, like you used to have to do back in 1965.

     

    t

    uses a bike drinks bottle 

     

     

    Is this the cap you use? Stant Lev-R-vent #10329

     

    SNN-10329.jpg

  7. On 1/13/2019 at 10:17 AM, Healey3000 said:

    Thanks!

     

    I used a PIC 16F18324 for this.  If there is interest in this controller, I think it should be changed to be more packaging-friendly,  I've done a PCB layout for an 8-pin Ampseal header and the board fits completely within the footprint of that connector.  This would allow for a small, sealed module that can be placed just about anywhere.

     

    Have you produced more of these, or are you willing to produce one?

     

    Thanks,

    Dennis

  8. In my attempt to take the pitman arm off of the steering box, I fear I damaged the steering box. I had a puller on the pitman arm and noticed that I was cranking down the puller with the shaft coming out of the box rotated to its end point. In other words, the torque being applied to the puller was transmitted to whatever interface in the steering box prevents it from rotating past its end point. 

    Before doing this I had checked for play in the steering box by rotating the shaft to mid point, smooth throughout and trace play in the middle. I did this when pitman arm still attached to subframe components so better torque. Now with trying to turn the shaft it binds in the middle range, and gets easier near the end in either direction. This is with holding the steering box in one hand, and the still attached pitman arm in the other. (Lower torque)

    The only other thing I did was to loosen the set screw in the top of the steering box and removed the four bolts holding the top on to drain the oil 

     

    Did I damage something with trying to remove the pitman arm? (Which is still attached by the way. %#@$R@$%@!!) 

     

    Thanks

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