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pd_55

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Everything posted by pd_55

  1. @Son of Marty That may be the better approach. Not a huge deal to bleed the brakes but I just spent a week and 4 quarts of fluid bleeding the new Wilwood calipers. Not sure where the air was, but it was a pain to get out. And don’t feel like doing it again. I don’t have the bolts prepped for safety wire. They must have been changed by a previous owner to allen head bolts. Thanks.
  2. Planning to drop my engine soon and was curious if anyone has dropped the subframe from just under the struts (3 bolt connection at the very bottom of the strut assembly) and leaving the struts and brakes connected. It seems feasible, but I would be concerned about lining those bolts up without cross threading on reassembly. Anyone done this way or is it better to just disconnect the brakes and drop the whole assembly including struts? Also, anyone have a front and rear Ireland Engineering sway bar kit they are looking to part with? They are back to being sold out again. Thanks all.
  3. @esty So I shouldn’t need a block to split the connections from the distributor housing? If I can run two wires from the sender, then that should work.
  4. Very good. I’ll search the parts store shelves. Thanks.
  5. @Mike Self I am getting some gauges from Esty actually and not sure what brand they are, but they aren’t VDO. The sending unit and sensor looks standard, but I wonder if the VDO adapter could work. I’ll have to see what I’m dealing with and note the thread sizes to make sure.
  6. Thanks @John76. I’ll have to look up the thread stock sizes for the switch and block and need to confirm what my sensor threads are when it arrives. Does the internal size of the fitting matter for oil pressure? Meaning some may be smaller and some larger. I’m thinking no, but you never know. Thanks.
  7. I posted something in the parts wanted section, but not sure if that gets equally viewed as the discussion forum. So wanted to reach out to the masses. If anyone has a 3 way distribution block for adding an external oil pressure gauge while maintaining the stock switch for the dash light, I am very interested. Thanks and much appreciated.
  8. Hello fellow FAQers. I’m looking for a 3 way distribution block for the oil pressure/temp sensor. This is for when adding a separate oil pressure gauge while still maintaining the stock switch for the dash light. If anyone has one in good condition, please reach out to me. Thanks very much. Paul
  9. Got it. Will get them shipped tomorrow. Thanks. Paul
  10. Yes, still available. Let me know. I would do PayPal, if that works and I can ship tomorrow probably. Where are you located? Thanks. Paul
  11. Selling (2) Bilstein B6 performance rear shocks. These are off my 1974 2002. They are about a year old with less than 500 miles on them. Great condition with lots of life left. Includes the washers and like new shock tower bushings. Asking $120 shipped to anywhere in the continental US. Thanks.
  12. Looking to buy the Ireland Engineering front sway bar set up with hardware. I am looking for just the front, but if you're selling the front and rear and not looking to part out, I could be interested in both. Thanks. Paul
  13. @AceAndrew Thanks for the link. That is what I’m looking for, but they don’t look available anymore. But the lines from the front are really the goal. Most are squared with the left and right sides vertical versus the turbo where the lines flow towards the center. Like all of the fun projects with the 2002, I’ll keep the search up. Thanks.
  14. Question is do I take a Turbo air dam and trim the sides or section it to make it fit? Or take a Kamei style and cut the sides to give a tapered, turbo profile from the front? Since there doesn’t look to be a finished product to fit the bill, I’ll think about customizing something. If anyone knows of any other good solutions or product, I’m open. Thanks.
  15. This is more of a parts area question, but haven't had much luck. Does anyone know of or where to source a Turbo style replica front air dam, but made for standard fenders versus flared? Similar to this one. I found a Kamei repro, but it doesn't have the same lines and tapers that the Turbo one does. Any help finding out if these are made and where would be appreciated. Thanks all.
  16. All good points. Will definitely make sure to stay detailed with it. I’m mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic, so those are the things I would have concern with when assembling. But that’s what reference manuals will be helpful with. @AceAndrew I would probably get most of my engine build parts from IE. Since Jeff and you are no longer there, who would be the trusted source when it comes to putting the proper “kit” together? Thanks.
  17. @AceAndrew Understood about machine shops and builders. I’m in AZ and was looking to have it done locally. Otherwise, I know the plethora of 2002 resources in southern CA. And if I am not comfortable with people here, I could have the motor sent out, but was trying to avoid that if I could. I know of a good vintage Porsche shop, but don’t know of many shops with good knowledge of vintage BMWs. For mileage/use, this is not a DD, so I’m thinking it would see 1000-2000 miles annually max. Some fun drives a few times a month.
  18. Thanks for all the feedback. There’s no exact HP goal, but at least 165-170. I may be going a little overboard with increasing displacement, but I would like to build it out once and not think back about what I should have done. And still be able to have fun with in it 5, 10, 15 years from now. Regarding pricing, costs and availability aren’t what they used to be. I’m thinking with everything, it should be not too much under $9-10k. But that’s just parts and machining labor. Most engine assembly and install would be done by me. Are there still any specific little M10 machining or assembly things that only someone who has built many M10 performance engines would know about? Would even an experienced engine builder who only works on LS motors know to do XYZ on an M10 while machining for bore and stroke? Thanks.
  19. Reaching out to all of the seasoned performance M10 engine builders. I am planning my engine build with the following components. Mine is currently a stock original 74 2.0. I was going to go the S14 swap route, but after this weekend’s BAT auction, I’ll stick to having fun building mine. Looking for nuanced advice to tell my machinist that will be working on the block and head. Any hints and tricks are appreciated. Also, is the spec I’m shooting for optimal or what should I think to change? Goal is a very fun and reliable street/track car with 165-170 HP approaching 6500-7000 rpm. Thanks all. IE stroker crank (not an S14, so I understand it’s a drop in) 90 or 92 bore with IE forged pistons to match (Is 92mm risking too thin a cylinder wall?) 144 mm rods 11:1 compression (will 10.5 give the same net result?) All new bearings and hardware. Weber 45 DCOE and upgraded fuel pump OR and ITB setup. I am still deciding. 304 cam and rebuilt head with new stock spec parts. Is the stock oil pump and pan ok? Any uncommon or specific machining needing to be done to the block or head for the stroker crank, bigger bore and stroke and things to look out for? Thanks for letting me pick everyone’s skilled brains.
  20. @kbmb02 Come to think of it, I believe that is where I got it and not directly. Thanks Ken.
  21. I picked mine up directly from ITG. https://www.itgairfilters.com/
  22. That is pretty similar. I didn't notice any fumes, so was fine not running it to the carb. Maybe when I start driving with the windows up in a couple months, I may. But I didn't want to have the filter gum up with oil either. And I am looking for the same style brace. Which one is that? Nice engine bay.
  23. @Leucadian I have a 38/38 with the ITG, so same as you. I am currently venting directly to a catch can more or less as a breather, and not returning to the carb. No issues that I am aware of; at least none attributed to the vent setup.
  24. Selling my DSSR short shift kit with a shift boot and knob. This is for a 4 speed transmission and is complete. It was installed into my ‘74 2002, but never driven unfortunately. There is some install wear, but no “use” wear. The short shift kit is from Blunttech and includes the OEM short shifter, billet selector rod, pins with clips, trans joint with pin and ring. Has the nylon shifter cups installed. The top one is cut to get it on the shifter, but does not affect performance. Once in the shifter bracket, it seats solidly. Also including a new Kooglewerks leather shift boot and an Ireland Engineering billet shift knob. The knob is black anodized with the vintage BMW Motorsport emblem installed. Shift boot and knob are brand new. Asking $200 for the lot, including shipping to the continental US. Thanks.
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