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@JQ02 I’m working on having my ‘74 painted and can speak to the painter to see if he would be interested in painting another one. He’s independent, not a shop. Located in DE. I can ask him, if you’d like.

@Mike Self Thanks for the clarification. Will tackle this week and fingers crossed they communicate properly.

@jimk Thanks for the info. Looks like there is a 0-100 ohm option, per Haltech. May try that to see how accurate or go with the custom option. For the fuel sender connections, would you know which ones are ground, level signal and alarm? My MVP fuel level unit doesn’t have markings. Based on the pic, which ones would you say are what? Thanks.

Finally getting around to wiring the fuel level sensor correctly after going bone dry on two occasions in the past year. Looking for some wiring help from the community. I’m utilizing the stock fuel level sensor, but it’s running through my Haltech digital dash. There are currently only two wires coming from the dash to the sender. The connections are an AVI (analog voltage input) and a ground. There are 3 connections to the sender, so would anyone know the proper way for me to wire the sender? I also have a Haltech fuel level sender signal conditioner that I’m going to install in line. It filters a resistive signal for use with an Analogue Voltage Input (AVI). Would this be needed to read the stock sender signal? Thanks for any wiring and electronics help.

@Son of Marty Good point. I think I opted for the 80 psi, because I didn’t think it would run that high. Always learning. Thanks.

@TobyB I don’t think that will happen as when I see 80, I almost want to coast to the shoulder, shut her off and pray I don’t see a fireworks of oil under the hood. Thanks for all of the insights.

I haven’t heard of pressures that high, but that’s reassuring to hear. Just recently started driving it after installing the motor, trans and new engine management. So I was definitely concerned. @John76 The mechanical gauge I’m running is an AutoMeter classic style 0-80 psi. It runs in line with the ecu reading, which is why I installed it. The sensor is a Haltech sensor that reads to the digital dash. I have the warning at 80 and it flirts with that sometimes when cold.

This is for the M10 builders and gurus. i.e. @kbmb02 The motor that I’m running is a 2.0 liter that has reportedly been built in the 90’s. Not sure of the compression, but pistons are Arias and is running an unknown spec Schrick cam. Has also been converted to fuel injection with Haltech ECU management. Had an engine out service by VSR in NH in 2020 where it was resealed, oil pump replaced and pan baffled. Motor runs well, no smoking, no leaking, no seaping around gaskets. BUT, it is running very high (to me) oil pressures. Cold start - Idles at 60-70 psi Driving (cool) - Above 3k, 70-80 psi Warm idle - 40-45 psi Driving (fully warm) - Above 3k, 50-60 psi Oil is LiquiMoly 20w50 Classic. Car lives in Phoenix, AZ, so oil is never that cold. My only comparisons are my other cars that operate in the 25-40 psi range, so 70 psi seems ludicrous. Question is if this can be considered acceptable or normal for a tuned M10 or are these unsafely high pressures? Thought it might be the sensor, but I installed a mechanical gauge backup and reads the same. Could it be the fitting where both sensors are tapped into; orifice size? Blocked passage? Blocked oil pump pickup? Oil pan baffle? Baffle pic attached. Any help is always appreciated.

@ingramlee “ Looks good. Question about the half shaft boot. I need to do my passenger side and wondering how involved it was and where you got your parts. Thanks.

Yes, I do know that it would need to be rewired and ok with that. With the ecu and fuel injection conversion, I think it’s maxing the little 45 amp one out. Let me know. Thanks. Paul

Looking for the 65 AMP alternator from the 320 E21, which I believe is a direct swap to a 2002 without fabricating any new brackets. I have a stock 45 AMP from a 2002 if interested in a trade. Thanks.

@Stevenc22 Thanks. Do you know if the interior fastener is a threaded nut or a clip style that pulls off? Would love to take the trim off nice and easy without “pulling” it off of the clips from the exterior.

Starting the body work process and I want to remove the knee molding on the car. Couple questions for the body veterans though. Is there a best/safest way to remove the trim; standard plastic trim tools to pop off the trim work or do you need to access from the inside? And is there a secret to filling the holes? I am looking to weld them, but curious if there is a preferred technique to do this well and without warping the metal as there should be quite a few to fill on each side. As always, any suggestions are appreciated.

More like what didn’t I do to my 2002 today. I was talking with some friends and they convinced me to post my “build”. Have not posted any progress unfortunately, so this is all of it to date, mostly in order. Started it about 24 months ago when I picked up a perfectly fine running 1974 BMW 2002 4-spd repainted in Estoril Blue by the previous owner. My goal was to build something that I liked and would enjoy driving. It’s more restomod than original, but it’s certainly fun. And was an exercise in learning as this was a first for me and tested my mechanical abilities. What’s left to do is cosmetic; paint and bodywork. Originally Polaris Silver, but I like the brighter BMW colors like Fire Orange or Taiga Green. I think I’ll enjoy it for a bit though. Car on pick up day: Started tearing into the interior and replacing items. Steering wheel, short shifter, new console, etc: Got a line on some cheap E24 rear seats I couldn’t pass up: New Corbeau retro front seats for some actual support: Sold the 14” bottle caps and replaced with 15” Panasports: Some random parts tidying up like water pump, fuel pump, brake booster and master, fuel lines, starter, alternator, rebuild carb, relocated battery to the trunk (much more space in the engine bay), etc. Also added custom made hood struts (hood fell on me once and that was that): New AKG shifter for no other reason except loved the look: Bigger things to tackle. Replaced front and rear suspension with Ground Control components with some replacement front struts I sourced. New Wilwood front brakes with slotted rotors and 250 mm rear drums. New bushings for both front and rear. No pics of the Wilwoods, which is odd. Also swapped the 32/26 for a 38/38 carb with ITG filter. Cleaned up the bay and added the flat black: Then a little bigger thing to tackle. New motor and trans. Sourced from the site from a great guy who put together some nice parts, but wanted some of that S2000 F20C power in his 2002. Motor is slightly built, Schrick cam, Jenvey fuel injection, Haltech ECU and harness, 245 5-speed, the works and was recently torn down and serviced: Started my first ever motor swap with a homemade gantry engine lift replete with Home Depot shelving components: Motor and subframe out with much more drama than I would have wanted. Couldn’t get the car or jack quite high enough to drop the motor, so it was sketchy at best, but ultimately done: New motor prepped, new trans prepped, disassembled, reinforced, cleaned and painted subframe with new hardware and bushings, new motor and transmission mounts. Assembled and ready to install in a similarly sketchy manner: Motor in its new home finally. Other upgrades like new radiator and electric fan: Now to the area of least confidence; wiring. Wired up the motor, ECU and cleaned up existing wiring. Located on the heater core so the console still fits with a little modification. Removed and reconditioned the fuel tank and installed a new Holley in tank fuel pump, new hard fuel lines with AN fittings: Hopefully my final shifter upgrade. Coolerworx shifter to compliment the extra gear. Shifts feel really solid and I don’t mind the taller lever. Went with a Haltech digital dash to be able to monitor everything of concern. Fits nicely and was able to utilize and modify a cluster I bought off the site to give a slightly stock look: Here’s how she sits now. There have been quite a few little things that I didn’t mention like the bumper, exhaust, new headlights, dual horns, coco mats, removed and refinished all interior panels, replaced door brakes, added strut bar and many more. But it rides and drives great and feels reliable now. Recently tuned and dyno’d, so runs well. Came out with 141 whp 124 lbft torque, which I’m happy with and feels like plenty when I want it. Next steps are the exterior, body work and paint so the outside can match everything else. Quite happy with how it came out and since I did it in the garage and no work was outsourced, it’s completely rationalized as worth it:

Looking for an instrument/gauge cluster for a late model 2002. Could be an early model, but not sure if they use the same binnacle. Only need the shroud, gauges can be missing/not working. If anyone has one for sale, preferably in rough or non working condition, I’m interested. Thanks.

@kine8282 Yes, wheels do spin by hand.

@kine8282 You have to drop the tranny for that detent pin, I think. If you take out the 3 bolts holding the shifter in and get it in neutral, it should sit nice and align itself. Then maybe drill new mounting holes? My issue seems to be sorted now. I had to move the shifter around and adjust the limiting screws that are on the shifter. Goes into gear now.

@kine8282 My issue started when I went from the factory 4 spd to the Getrag 245 5 spd. With the AKG, it was ordered for the 4 spd, so not sure if there are any differences with the shifter itself for a 5 spd. I know the DSSR length is different. What I saw was that there was some binding between the shaft and lower body of the shifter when it needed to go far left into reverse and far right for 5th. But again, when I had the 4 spd, there were no issues with the AKG.

@2002iii I do have poly AKG motor and trans mounts, not the “race” hardness, but certainly stiffer than HD rubber. The only thing that I needed to customize on the shifter was to shim it up about 3/8” as it had the DSSR angled down so it wasn’t level. A long test drive will help me dial it in better and find out if 5th engages correctly. Just didn’t know if I was missing something with the 245. Thanks.

@bergie33 Wish I knew that before reinstalling. Lol. I did take the plates off and cleaned them well, but a little sealer wouldn’t have hurt I guess. I don’t see drips from there, but will keep an eye on it.

Sorry, haven’t been able to get good pics, but I did ease off the set screws on the shifter and now 5th seems to engage, but it seems waaay over from 3rd. I’ve only ever had the 4 speed, so not sure if that is normal or not. 1st through 4th seem very close compared. Haven’t gone for a highway drive yet, but hoping it engages properly. Still needs to visit to the tuner in November, so don’t want to put too many miles on it before that. Have a Coolerworx chassis mount shifter and seems to have enough play without binding, but need another body to so I can check it from underneath.

@flagoworld I just finished removing, cleaning, resealing and installing my steering box. The steering arm just needed a bunch of free-all and my harbor freight 3 jaw puller did the job. I just needed to grind the hooks down to get them to fit between the arm and box to provide good enough purchase. But what’s the most frustrating is that I replaced the seals with the IE kit and I still have drips under the car from the steering box. Not pulling it off again though.

So I got my Getrag 245 5-speed in with my motor swap a couple months ago and everything seemed to be dry shifting fine, after I changed my shifter. Finally got it out for a road test and that's where things got questionable. As I went through the gears, I went 4th to 5th and it was actually 3rd. Trying the pattern, there is a definite difference between 3rd and 5th, meaning it's "down and over". But it is clearly 3rd when driving. And there is a "6th" gear, meaning that I can go "up and over" from 4th to what seems to be another gear, but again it's only 4th. Does anyone know what this could be about? Again, it's clear that it's going into where 5th should be. And it did go into 5th with the old shifter, it was just very difficult. As always, any imparted knowledge is appreciated. Paul