RainMoore

Hey all, I've posted on this pretty recently, but I figure a new one just to keep things simple... I've got a '74 2002 Automatic that I have yet to get started. Backtracking through what I think is multiple POs seriously bizarre wiring over the years. I've begun replacing several wires that were either mouse chewed, frayed, etc. So here's where I'm at, other than totally lost: I've isolated the problem to (I think) somewhere between the coil and the plugs, to which I'm getting no spark. Pic 1 - I replaced the wires leading to the + and - coil terminals, but have not changed how they were wired before i started. So...The red (+ on coil) spliced into a grey/green wire which goes into the fuse box where I lose track of it (not in any schematic I can find), and the black/red goes down across the brake booster in a taupe tube with four other wires, three of which are just cut, and the fourth (brown/black) goes into a lead on top of the engine. The black/red is also cut and was hanging loose. From schematics its supposed to connect the starter to the coil, so I've added a wire and reconnected it (pics 2 & 3). The orientation of said wire doesn't make much sense to me. It was awkward to get it back around to the starter, tho that could just be old wires. The black wire goes into the "Drehzalschalter" (google translated to "speed switch") and is connected to the - terminal on the coil. Also not on any schematic I can find. Pic 4 - black and red as described, Blue is to the points. From schematics there should be a green wire leading from the ignition to a relay/box then strait to the + coil terminal. It's nowhere to be found. At least, I can't trace it from under the dash into the engine bay, and it's definitely not going anywhere near the coil. I'm pretty new to this but it all seems pretty wonky to me. It looks like someone, at some point, rewired this thing semi-professionally but didn't adhere to the color code of the schematics. And then someone else did a worse job. The starter is firing, it's cranking, and with the multimeter I'm getting 10.5ish V to the coil. The points look alright (a little pitted but Ive filed them flat) and the condenser is functioning, as is the distributor. It's got a blue bosch (so no resistor). Fuses are solid. Everything else electronic seems to be working except the cigarette lighter. At this point I don't even understand how any power was getting to the coil at all, unless someone wired it through the fuse box first...? Any help would be appreciated on next steps... Thanks! PS - been looking at the stereo wiring as well. It looks as though someone set it up to be easily upgraded to a several channel system, but there are only two speakers and about 20 wires. It's a mess to say the least. All wired into connector boxes with the other buttons in the console. I only need the four wires (2 for each speaker) out of the back of the stereo right? Also, anyone know of any reason the hazard light button would possibly be wired into the stereo?...Because it is...

This was super helpful, thanks! as an update I replaced some worn out/miscolored wires, but I’m super confused about some of the wiring. Here are some pics: pic 1– replaced the positive lead with a red wire (which I’m assuming goes to the ignition switch) I also replaced the black wire from the negative terminal (which from what you say leads to the tachometer) both had been at some point crimped to the OG wires on the far side of the engine bay so I replaced them at that same point. I also replaced the wire to the points (which I did blue to keep myself from getting confused. Super new to this) and replaced the quick connect to the points, which was all really worn out. there was a small black wire which was connected to the same quick connect to the points, is that normal? I don’t see it in the schematic...It leads to the far side of the engine bay, but I lose track of it in the massive wire wraps there. I kept it connected. pic 2— there was a second black wire connected to the positive terminal of the coil which led across the engine bay, under the frame (zip tied to what I believe is the fuel line), which came out in the trunk...unattached to anything. Wth is that? Granted I’ve found a lot of weird/lazy stuff that’s been done to this car. But what could that have been? pic 3– some mouse-chewed wires under the relay (?) on the right side which I patched up best I could. I can’t figure out from the schematic what this is. aside from all this I still can’t get it to start. The points were fairly pitted, so I filed them. Found a mechanic receipt in the glove which says the points and condenser were replaced in 2013. Probably worth the $20 to just replace them again, right? like I said, there’s a lot of pretty terrible work that’s been done to this car. You should see the stereo wiring. Also someone at some point literally screwed a speaker into the body in one of the foot wells. I’m a novice at best, so I’m no one to talk, but I’m wondering what could be going wrong or what I’m going to find as I keep troubleshooting. I think one of the wires I replaced was a lamp cord... Thanks in advance for any help!

Here are pics of the coil and distributor. I don’t think there’s a limiter anywhere. the distributor is definitely pretty nasty. What’s the best way to go about cleaning that out and cleaning the points?

Hey all, I've got a '74 2002 Automatic that was left outdoors for a couple years that I've begun bringing back to life. I have yet to get the engine to turn over... I'm super new to any auto work beyond an oil change and basic maintenance on newer vehicles, so I'm learning each piece as I go along. Appreciate your patience in me fumbling through explaining all this. So here's where I'm at: I've isolated an electrical issue to somewhere between the ignition coil and the plugs. Power is reaching the ignition coil, but It's getting no spark. I pulled out the coil and tested it with a multimeter. It's reading 0.5 Ohm and 9 Ohm, which from what I've read is up to snuff--It's the OG blue Bosch btw. I don't know how to test the distributor beyond checking that it's clean and the arm rotates properly. It appears to be a newer distributor from the photos I've seen of original gear. I've replaced the battery, repaired/replaced any wires damaged by critters that made it their home over the past couple years, replaced any fuses that looked a little gnarly, cleaned all all electrical connection points. Word is when it was last being driven it ran like a champ. My best educated guess is to next replace the condenser and points, in that order, but is there a better way to test? or any ideas on what else could be going wrong? Thanks for taking the time to read and appreciate any advice you all have!

Hi all, looking for a replacement kickdown cable for my ‘74 2002 Automatic. Just inherited one and quickly found that the old cable is completely severed. I’ve had trouble finding one online anywhere. also, if anyone has an idea for an alternative or a way to temporarily ‘fix’ this issue, I’m all ears. thanks!

I'm in Santa Fe. There are actually a couple other 2002s running around here!

wow! thanks for all the excellent advice and encouragement! This is all pretty overwhelming at moments but everything you all are saying makes a lot of sense and is really helpful in terms of next steps. It's been less than a week of owning and I've already got a notebook with about 300 tasks listed down, tho I'm most definitely getting ahead of myself. I'll try the pull-out ideas and post some results soon, tho I think I forgot to mention that the trunk won't open...yet. I think I can still work something out based on your ideas. Got some putty to plug up the dried up seals, and will hopefully get it running soon. Think its probably time to learn how to rebuild a carburetor! Appreciate the warm welcome. Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll continue asking lots of questions. Can't wait to get it on the road!

Thanks so much! Super helpful. Guess I’m in the market for a new carb. strangely the dash isn’t set up for a manual choke knob, so I’m not sure what the previous owner was up to...

Ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the reply. I guess I was looking to hard for the startup problem. Still no clue how the choke is supposed to function. Is it common to leave a manual choke unconnected like that and wide open? Also, Is the cable into the transmission something I could replace myself?

Hi all, I've just inherited a 1974 BMW 2002 Automatic, and I'm having trouble know exactly where to start. Having some limited knowledge of cars (maintaining my own newer vehicles over the years) this is an overwhelming project to stare down. Thought I would share some pictures and see what y'all think. The car was last running about 3 years ago, and has since been sitting underneath a tree, and has been uncovered for about a year (that's the story anyway). I live in Northern New Mexico, so luckily rust is not as prevalent as most places, although there are some troubling areas I've discovered: one deep rust spot just behind the front left wheel well, just before the door cutout, the spare wheel well, some around the right rear just below the bumper, and some small rust bubbles form in random areas around the body, maybe three or four. There is some surface rust on the top as well. The undercarriage appears solid with the exception of one spot ill get to. Mice have made a home in the engine bay, so cleaning was a task, but luckily they only took interest in one single wire to munch on. I have limited tools and I'm doing this on a budget, tho if this takes some serious time that's not a problem. My main question is: how to go about this from the start? Is it unwise to even begin fixing problems a, b, and c now or should I just strip it, rust treat and paint the frame and then rebuild? Would that save me money on a good paint job in that it would be simpler? or would that be too much for a newcomer like myself? I'm not necessarily going to for a 'restoration' project as much as something that is beautiful, drives well, and is mine. So where to begin? A few more details: Cosmetically: The dash is cracked, headliner pretty rough and will eventually need replacement, seats are trashed but could be functional with some gnarly diy work, carpet is trashed, seals on the windshield, rear window and sunroof are dead--others seem fine--door panels are solid, paint is finished and chipping and some surface rust is forming in spots and around edges. Most of the trim is present and in good shape, tho the metal mounts are rusting, and the plastic clips breaking apart. The accordion rubber on the bumpers is warping, tho I've already had some luck treating it with trim restorer as rubber has a hard time in this climate. Most of the rubber seals around light mounts and mirrors is not great but seems alright for now. Most importantly: someone seems to have backed into it while it was parked and dented in the trunk and rear bumper, and also caused distortion on the right and left sides around the trunk, which I can't get open. Would a body shop even be able to fix that? or assuming I could get the trunk open is there a smart way I could go about pulling it out myself? none of the trim was damaged at all, only the right brake light cover was broken. I've tried to show this in the photos attached. Functionally: transmission was really solid when it was last used, it has a 'new' weber 32/36 (which I've already posted on this site about as I'm having trouble with a malfunctioning choke), electrical appears fairly undamaged, all but two lights work, the rubber gasket around the gas tank opening is deteriorating, the tank itself is decent and doesn't have any leaks, all mechanicals (besides the carb) within the engine bay seem to be functioning properly. There is a hole caused by rust in the floor just in front of the right side back seat, but nowhere else in the floor that I've found. Whoever had it in the past obviously took good care of it, and most of the damage and rot seems pretty recent. Again, I have limited knowledge but I'm excited to learn, and limited tools/abilities and will attempt to do this as simply as possible as I don't have huge amounts of money I can throw at this in any short term sense. Searching for a garage or some type of proper storage for the coming winter, so once I lock that down I can really begin. Any advice is appreciated, and if I haven't addressed any key details or I'm focusing on the wrong things in this ramble, my apologies. This is like learning a new language and trying to have a fluent conversation right away. Excited to really get started! These cars are truly special. Thanks, and looking forward to any replies. PS - I had the carb wrapped because I was cleaning out the mouse remnants in the engine bay.

Hi all, New to the forum and a new 2002 owner of a not-so-new-looking project car I've just inherited. I will doubtlessly be asking LOTS of questions on here in the months to come. This is a '74 2002 Automatic. Its been sitting outside, underneath a tree for some time, and has been a cozy home for some mice. I've cleaned it and begun attempting to get it started. Oil is topped off and fresh high test gas with some marvel in both to boot. Last time it ran was about 3 years ago. Upon troubleshooting, the electrical appears to be alright, as are the plugs. Someone at some point installed a Weber (32/36 I think) and while it has the manual choke installed, it looks as tho it was wired to the throttle, but the cable has snapped so now the choke doesn't function at all. I'll attach a photo. I've never heard of this, nor can I find anything like this online on any forum. Should I fix this with a new wire, or just order an electric choke--assuming it will install relatively easily? I think this was already a problem, as when is was running it had problems stalling when idling. As I'm new to all of this, would this not mean that when you're not actively accelerating the choke would close? Thanks for any advice. Sorry for the gummy shot, hadn't cleaned it up yet. What you're seeing is the rod that runs from the side of the carb to a joint (which is free-hanging strangely to me) and down to the accelerator pedal. It would seem that the frayed wire in my had used to run up to the mechanical choke.