Fletcher

On 12/10/2020 at 9:42 PM, chargin said:

 

Carpet looks awesome, but super curious about your sound system!  2 RF amp(?)s?  What is the speaker setup and stereo attached to those?

6 hours ago, MYBMWHabit said:

 

I got my Recaros back from the shop... 

 

Awesome!  I need to do the same. May I ask how much the repair was ballpark and where you had it done?  Thanks!

Did anyone ever get or post measurements for replacement tubing be it exhaust tubing, PVC or fence post?  Thanks!

Started looking at bringing the diving board bumpers closer to the car and just keeping them.  The method seems to be to drill, compress & weld the hydraulic cylinders.

Questions: 

1. Where is the best place to drill the holes?   Closest to the bumper?
2. There's a nut (not me) inside the end of the cylinder on the car side.  Loosening that on the center cylinder of the rear bumper seemed to let out some fluid, but not a lot.  Cranking on it for awhile with the socket driver didn't seem to remove it or release any more fluid that what came out with the first couple of turns.  What's it for?  Also, even with that bolt slacked and some of the fluid out, that outer tube seems seized on the inner one.  The others rotate easily.  That one won't rotate or even budge/bounce when smacked solidly with a 5lb sledge with a block of wood inbetween to not distort the metal by hitting it directly.  Finally, there doesn't seem to be much room to compress it.  It's seems like it's most of the way back already as it came off the car.
3. In one of the search results for Bumper Tucks, all the picture were broken, but there was a mention of www.parkerperformance.com and replacement short tubes to just replace the hydraulic cylinders with and draw the bumper in close.  That business seems to be defunct.  It's got a message up that says temporarily closed, but no indication if that's a covid thing or it's been that way for years.  Will try emailing them as the message prompts of course, but wondered of any alternatives to just buy short replacements for these cylinders that anyone is aware of? 

Thanks!!

Thanks, Paul.   ??
 

I should have specified: I’m hoping for (lightly) used on the cheap.  It just needs to be functional.  I kinda mangled mine getting it off.  ?

need chrome pieces with felt.  

19 hours ago, 7502 said:

Is this statement true if the window is rolled down? 

Yes.  I think I found the problem and I'm pretty sure I know how to fix it, but remain stymied as to how it occurred.  It was shutting smoothly before I put the window mechanism and glass back in.  It’s binding at the top front of the door.   A comparison between the working drivers door and this one (passengers) in pics

IMG_5734.MOV

Need both the chrome & padded pieces. Thx

3 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

do you have the plastic corn kernel on the latch?

I do.  
 

If your 2002 wasn’t optioned with fog lights, Is the switch/pull just bolted on?  Glued in place?  Or is it just stuck

 I can’t get mine to pull, twist, or otherwise move in any direction.  
 

Got the window back in and working. Without touching the door hinge bolts in the process, now the door doesn’t lineup right anymore.  WTH.  I have to slam it to close now.   Is the weight of the glass & door hardware enough to do that?  Weird. 
 

Got a door on 

Thanks, John!

Anyone have a good cutaway type diagram of the inner workings of the doors?
 

My repair & shop manuals have tiny pictures of various bits, but hoping for something comprehensive/easier to see.  
 

Thanks!

DM’d

Started the door swap.

Added more garage wall art. 
Drinking something festive. 
??
 

? 

heres your ? back

?

My son-in-law recommended doing this instead of painting on my far from perfect 76.  It seems to me though that unless the surfaces are all perfectly smooth and even already, like a modem car that isn’t 44+ years old, all the imperfections of old paint and old steel would get transmitted through the material and look bad.  Is that not the case?  Thanks!

Supposedly that’s BMW Mintgrun paint code 079.  Looks like Muppets Kermit the Frog green paint code R1B1T to me.  Going to give up and paint entire car primer gray soon. ?‍♂️
 

There was no structural difference between this one and the hood I already had, so keeping what I got and selling this one (here for cost). 
 

Clear coat on top is mostly intact.  Minor scratching center of top (pictured) and chipping in top corners (pictured)
 

I did sand/wire brush off all the rust from the bottom, Ospho’d and primed it.  
 

Local pickup only. I don’t have means to pack or ship it.  
 

Thanks

21 hours ago, majdomo said:

looks like this is a standard '02

Oops.  Fixed title.  Thx

No affiliation 

https://offerup.co/lracQrnrzbb

Assuming in the middle of cold & flu season in the middle of a pandemic, the the risk:gain proposition of going to the UPS store or shipping center doesn’t come anywhere close to making that a viable option: how does one ship large bulky things reasonably?  Crate & Freight w/ pickup seems pretty expensive.  Are there other options?

I scored a trunk lid with my doors that I don’t need (I was cleaning it up/arresting underside surface rust before listing for sale).  Someone on the faq has already expressed interest in it, but they’re ~1200 miles away.  How to get it there without delivery costing 4x what I paid for it?  Is that just a nonstarter?
 

thanks

4 hours ago, ricsix said:

The new ones you have look beautiful, where'd you find them

Midnight Motorsports in Seattle.  They were pulled from a car that was wrecked.  James (Teelinger) happened to be at the shop that day and let me know they were available.   Pictures only show the skins. Interiors need rust treatment and prep. 

Does anyone have a step by step kind of guide to swapping doors?  (Searched articles for howtos and didn’t find one).
 

Is it easier to disassemble/reassemble the door on or off the car?  

Are there replacement parts I should order in advance? (Like stuff that should be replaced when doing this?)

thanks!

https://offerup.co/OZ1I45R6qbb