Schon '02

On 5/14/2024 at 8:25 PM, Radio Fixer said:

Hello,

I bought twin Weber 45 DCOE with "Cannon intake manifold kit" for my 1975 BMW e10 many years ago. Finally after restoring the car installed them but unfortunately they are not running correctly. Cannot balance the carburetors using Synchrometer tool.

 

Currently I am using E10 engine, with raised high compression pistons, E12 head and camshaft from 1973 Tii. Unfortunately, I do not remember what size of pistons was installed.   

 

Car has no power when driving, max speed 10 to 15 miles only.  Idle below 1200 car shakes badly and turn off. I have research online as well as books for correct Jet sets. Before buying more parts want to check with you to see what you are using on your Twin Weber 45 DCOE.

 

Below chart indicates my finding from this forum on the left (40 and 45 DCOE WEBER JETTING info!), Center section is what Cannon Kit suggest, and the on the right what Haynes Book suggest.

 

Thank you very much.

Regards, Jay

 

 

Here are my settings with 45DCOEs and a Cannon kit:

- Emulsion Tube: F9

- Idle Jet: 55 F9

- Main Jet: 155

- Air Correction Jet: 180

- Choke: 34

- Misc: Schrick 292 cams, Stahl headers, MSD Ignition 

The set up is for street use and generally tractable with a slight lumpy but acceptable idle. 

Wendel’s presence will certainly be missed. He was always friendly, positive and cordial whenever we met, regardless of the fact that I’m not a regular to the local events. He always made me feel welcomed, and I can only hope that I can follow his example with the people I meet along the way. Life’s too short. Condolences to his friends and family.

Doesn’t Valt Auto hold their 5th Sunday cars and coffee at the same time in Moraga?

Just a thought… if the door tends to bind along the rear vertical section of the seal, perhaps adjusting the door forward would help. You’d have to sacrifice the even door panel gaps that might have been established when initially aligning the doors without the seals; ditto if the seal is binding along the bottom and adjusting the door upwards. Over time, if the seal yields, readjust the door to even the panel gaps.

Went to the faq C&C in Los Gatos…

What is the diameter of the cover?

Weber DCOE CSM (aka a “choke” by some) that needs to be used for a quick cold start or risk the probability of no/long start-up or flooding the engine.

From an archived thread…

I used 3M Molding Tape and it’s held up for the past three years. I would also consider “Goop” or “Shoe-Glue” if  an adhesive is preferred.

12 minutes ago, BGB said:

oooo looks cool. What time is it at? The website is kinda on the fritz for me

From 9-11am. I’ve spent the last three weekends working on the E91, so the 2002 is due for some seat time. Petaluma is not too far for a quick drive…

Any faq’ers or BA02ers going to the GGC C&C this Saturday?

Fueling it, done often (with thirsty dual side draft 45DCOEs) and requiring a filler adaptor (at least in CA with the vapor recovery gas pump nozzles).

4 hours ago, flagoworld said:

VANOS problems? Sounds like it’s functioning correctly. 😋

“Simple” valve cover gasket replacement … if that were only so. 🤣

Fortunately the ‘02 hasn’t needed anything since replacing the driver’s door window and regulator, and tuning the Webers. I just need to take her out for a good drive and check the plugs to see if the idle mixture is spot on.

Unfortunately, I’ve had to deal with the “other” bimmer, which certainly makes me appreciate the simplicity of the ‘02.

This item is sold.

Sold

2 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

I find the excessive talk and continual stream of threads/comments regarding the monetary value of our cars a bit nauseating and unbecoming.

 

For a car that “was” an enthusiast’s fun car …. it’s now been reduced to a commodity.

 

Great job @OriginalOwner      let’s keep these value threads coming and rip that bandaid off.  I’m guilty of it too, my wife now calls our car the down payment.

Reduced to a commodity or elevated to a collectible? Regardless, it’s just a car to enjoy and have fun in. I prefer working on the car myself and calling it maintenance, not an “investment.” I still wash with a car sponge mit and dry with a terry cloth towel. I’ll leave the clay baring and ceramic coating to those more OCD than me. If I “show” the car, the doors are open and interested folks, especially kids, welcome to sit behind the wheel if they’ve never sat in an ‘02 before. Hopefully the new owner puts some real miles on their new purchase. 

No doubt, the seller did well and had the right buyers in the tent at the right time. As the saying goes, you need to know when to hold them and when to fold them. As ‘02 owners and enthusiasts, we can all feel good about the results, even folks like me that don’t own a tii. I could probably sell mine for quite a bit more than I paid for it four plus years ago, but the car’s not for sale and would be difficult to replace in kind. So, as with other appreciating assets that are buy and hold, I think I’ll just go out to garage, take her for a spin and appreciate it…

I received a PM from a relatively new member with the email address of the Seller. The Seller stated he was out of town on business and did not have access to the FAQ and was unable to respond to FAQ inquiries. He would accept cash & carry offers or could have someone package and ship the dash today if I wasn't local. After a numerous email exchanges, I requested that they post a reply on the FAQ that a sale was pending, allow others who responded before me to make a deal, and if none could be made, I would be willing to pay cash and pick up the dash. They needed to prove that they were the original poster and had possession of the dash, otherwise no deal.

If the Seller reads this I'm still interested under the same conditions.

If not, Caveat Emptor to anyone else who responds to this ad. 

Sold yet? If not, please PM me.

Thx

Ken

I recently went through the exercise of fine tuning the idle mixture/speed with dual 45 DCOEs. IIRC, the chokes are 34mm; Main Jets are 155; Air Correctors 180; Idle Jets 55F9s; cam is Schrick 292; Stahl header; throttle linkage is cable up to the balance lever which I use to synch the carbs. I'm able to get a relatively smooth idle at ~800 rpm considering the carb/cam/header set up.

A few lessons learned from my experience:

• Check for induction leaks at the intake manifold. My carbs do not have a support rod so they hang off the manifold. It has Thackery spring washers between the carb and manifold nuts to deal with vibration, and they do get hardened and will crack over time. So check for gasket leaks at the carb/manifold gaskets
• Check your idle speed lever(s) and set screws. The prior owner set the speed with the aft carb lever and used a return spring from this lever attached to the cowl; the front carb idle speed set screw was essentially disabled and it took me awhile to have an ah-ha moment with that one... I disabled the rear and now set the idle speed with the front and have the idle return spring pulling on the balance lever as well.
• Check that your return spring is fully closing both carbs
• Start the synch by setting the throttle plates evenly with the balance lever and observing the plates through the progression holes. Once they all hit the first hole at the same time, that is your starting bench mark. I found that my best idle/synch was with the aft carb lagging the front by just a hair. I did not use a synch meter... just good old fashioned eyes, ears and feel. The sweet spot is small.. maybe half a flat turn on the balance lever bolt, so patience is key
• I started idle mixture at 1-1/4 turns for all four cylinders and best idle is within 1/8 of that for each... again, I'm going old school by pulling plugs and checking color to fine tune as needed.

4 hours ago, elfhearse said:

I installed the single strut bar from TEP with the brace mounting on valve cover.  It stopped the engine shake at idle but when I went over 80mph it transferred a massive resonance/vibration throughout the car.  Removed the brace and kept the strut bar and no more issues with the high speed NVH.

I was thinking about using it to control some idle shake as well. I’ve been dialing in dual DCOE 45s and have done the best I can to synchronize and set the idle mixture and speed, but still some shake at a nice low idle (I guess it goes with the territory of the carbs, 292 cam and Stahl header set up). Based on everyone’s input, I’m inclined to leave well enough alone.  

Saw this on a ‘74 tii recently posted on BaT… anyone else ever see or use a torque rod on their engine?

BTW…and yes, it has a cowl hole…

JIf you have Italian Webers with the short idle screw needle, your initial baseline should be 1 to 1.5 turns from initial closure contact… if you’re setting at 1/4 to 1/2 turns, then it sounds like your idle jet is too rich (large) and you have little turndown (or adjustment with your needle valve).

Have you synced the carbs (either with a synchrometer air flow meter or other method to determine air flow is matched on the two carbs). This is the first step (along with idle speed) before adjustments to the idle mixture.