Schon '02

On 8/21/2020 at 10:20 PM, npdw said:

Before installation I made a setup in my shower with a garden hose etc to check if it would function properly without leaks. I learned to do that because I had to remove and disassemble the heater box 3 times. That was not a nice experience

Once the heater valve has been rebuilt and the valve hardware has been refreshed, I’ve found it relatively easy to work on the valve’s O-rings without removing the heater box. Reaching into the cowling with a 7mm wrench and a stubby Phillips screwdriver to loosen the screws and bolt to remove the valve cover, plug and shaft is relatively easy. The hardest part is getting the lever arm and bolt back on the valve shaft entirely by feel. It takes a bit of touch and dexterity, but it’s doable. Lord knows I’ve had enough practice.? 

2 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

Has anyone had any recent clever ideas to fix this issue?

I had a similar issue with a slight weep from the shaft. I soaked my shaft o-ring in power steering leak-stop for a day to swell the o-ring a bit for a tighter fit. I’ve had no leakage since doing so. 

The width of the teflon plug is equal to the internal width of the brass valve body. The stainless steel shaft and its seat is designed to be sandwiched between the side of the Teflon plug and brass valve body. It’s important that the internal brass valve body be free of any corrosion preventing the full insertion of the teflon plug. The plug and stem should then smoothly rotate, but not have any wobble or radial movement. Polishing the inside of the valve is helpful IMO.

Note that there are various versions of brass heater valves, so your version may be more susceptible to issues. You made no comment on where your valve leaked (at the stem or the cover). Pictures would be helpful.  

Replacement gauges are available:

https://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-2002-water-temperature-gauge/
 

That being said, I would take a careful look at the gauge once you remove it from the instrument cluster. It’s fairly fragile, and the case is thin gauge steel. When inspecting mine, I found two problems: The first was the mounting stud had pulled away from the back of the casing. The stud was used as a non-factory secondary ground point for the gauge. Over Tightening the nut on the back side of the circuit board had pulled stud from the casing. The second problem was a loose ground connector in 

he gauge itself. Correctly pushing this connector back onto the terminal spade fixed my gauge issues (needle pegged out due to poor ground).

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-bmw-2002-56/

The wheels very similar to “Delta” from a foundry in Milano. 

 

9 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Mungo?

I think you mean “Mongo.” See, aren’t we all helpful around here?

I can’t believe I read this whole thread...  very sad. I could have been on AlfaBB where everyone is always helpful, courteous and respectful to newbies and oldies alike...?

Looks like he didnt read this...

Thumbs up to the guys at PRDesign! I was able to install the repair bracket without any drama. The footwell carpet doesn’t need removal, just loosen the lower edge and corner just enough to access the port hole on the sheet metal. Using the bracket as the template for two 1/4” holes, nail punching the marks, drillIng, a bit of filing and the fiddly part of getting the backer plate piece in. Then bolt it up, set the pin, re glue the carpet and it’s done. Well worth the effort and price! Wife is happy!

‘73 Malaga VIN 2590923 originally purchased by David Zivnuska of Moraga, CA... The car wound up in Boulder CO with owners #2 (Robert Steinway, ‘95-‘02) and #3 (David Mohseni, ‘02-‘06), before returning to California with owner #4 (Peter Oxenbol, ‘06-‘18). The earliest photo of the car is from ‘98 when it graced the cover of of the BMWCCA Rocky Mtn Chapter newsletter. 

Count two from Benicia.

Great idea! Next version will be made of black iron pipe for riot control!
 

Seriously, it fits nicely behind the rear strut tower brace. If needed, the stand pipe portion has a screwed coupling so I can adjust the height, and if needed unscrew the bottom half for compact storage. 

The strange looks at the station are nothing compared to the eye rolls from the wife! LOL! But it works great and that s all that matters.

All the fuel gravity drains into the car via the white corrugated hose, which is about 16” long and an inch in diameter. Both ends can be capped once any excess fuel is wiped off so there are no fumes or spillage once stored in the trunk. If you’re thinking the fuel fills the black pipe, you don’t understand the concept. 

My solution for splash free, full flow filling... designed for my bad back so no need to crouch or squat with the higher location to insert the gas pump nozzle. The black pipe is essentially the stand which allows you to press down on the gas pump nozzle when filling; a corrugated hose is in the curved section of the pipe. PM me if you’re interested; I made a few extra. 

A grommet goes where the wire pulls through the fender.

Worth reading to get a feel for the market and learn about what to look for:

https://bringatrailer.com/auctions/results/?search=Bmw+2002+

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/scary-photos-of-recalled-harbor-freight-jack-stands-show-just-how-dangerous-they-are/ar-BB14DdHZ?li=BBnbfcL
 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002tii-45/

Mike, There's no reason why it shouldn’t work without the nub on the Teflon plug. As long as the plug rotates smoothly and the recess on the shaft side of the plug isn’t damaged, it should work. If you do want to ask the folks that designed the retrofit kit, contact Alloy Metal Products in Livermore, CA. They actually designed and manufacture the kit. Blunt is just the distributor. Ask for Fred Matter. He’s the president. 

Any plans to re-create the non-tii version of the emissions sticker that goes in the passenger side cowl area below the windshield?

9 minutes ago, otisdog said:

What road is that?

Looks like part of the route is on  Shoreline Highway aka CA Hwy 1 along Keys Creek and Tomales Bay with a stop at Nick’s Cove... gotta love the West Marin backroads...

It would help to know...

• How long has the door been out of alignment?
• Did you just replace the door seal?
• What brand seal did you procure (OEM, URO. other?) if you did replace them?
• How does the door close without the seal? Do the door gap appear even?
• How well does the seal fit in the channels? Is there any excess material? Binding? or pulling out of the channels?

Answers to these questions will help you and FAQ members troubleshoot your door closure issues.

Also,

• Replace the acorn cap on the door latch (it looks worn out)
• Adjust the door first, adjust the window fit second

4 hours ago, stumpedtown said:

...This is the valve I purchased, keep in mind of course that I haven't gotten everything put together to ensure it works for this application but it seems very likely it will: 

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7BUAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The valve part description says “it’s a pull to open” so your lever control may work backwards. What you want is a “quarter turn, pull to close” valve. Still, for $15, if you can make it work and the worse is having the control lever work backwards, that’s not too shabby at all.