whatyear

It’s some mvp made trim, headlight hardware kit + trunk vent covers.

The lack of communication is definitely frustrating. Things come up but if they just reached out about a delay or even called back, that's all I'd need to have peace of mind and wait. I was definitely charged with a transaction & posted date on my credit card. I think I'll start a charge back and it's a clear case with email receipts and such. Not great for them since they pay the original card fees + chargeback fee but I gave them a lot of time and reached out. Thankfully I can source the trim and such through Kooglewerks and MVP does an amazing job getting parts to CA in like 3-5 days from Taiwan for smaller stuff thats reasonable to ship.

I have an order in with IE on April 7th for quite a bit of parts and haven't heard anything since after 2 emails, a voicemail and their phone goes straight to voicemail. I've been a customer over the last 5+ years and sometimes there is a few days of delay in shipping but you can always get an email reply within 24 hours. Just sharing in case others are experiencing the same or might be able to shed some light. I know emergencies can come up so want to give them the benefit of the doubt but am a bit nervous I might have do to a chargeback in a week or 2 if I don't hear back.

I really really want to get around to some k build some day. I’ll have to keep an eye on that new thread. My car is currently in a paint booth and I’m supposed to get it back on Sunday! There’s a chance I can get it together for Brisbane, but if not, I’ll have to swing by a Los Gatos c&c soon.

Soooo many updates to share! I've taken a ton of photos/video in the last 8. months and keep telling myself to put together a proper write up or blog, but this will do for now. For the exhaust I ended up going to Driven Garage in East Bay, Ca to make a custom downpipe. I attached a quick clip below. If I went with a 2.5 inch setup, it might have a bit more flow, but I love the sound and am keeping the engine mostly stock, so 2.25 gives it some nice back pressure. Since assembling the car, I've put about 150 miles on it and would still consider it in "shake down". I put some miles on an eye ball alignment but took it to Loveshop in Fremont, CA for a proper adjustment. It' drive sooo nice and straight now. I'd say I replaced about 3/4 of the seals on the engine and transmission but in true lazy "this will be fine to do later" I had to fight a valve plug leak and still have a bad leak out of the rear seal of my getrag 260, the only seal I didn't replace on it while it was out of the car 😬 Like I mentioned, I'll keep the engine mostly stock cuz I'm honestly a pretty amateur driver and it feels quick as-is. But I did swap in some 17 lbs green tip injectors to replace the worn stock ones. This also helped the running temp drop a bit. I'm also running a racing pros ecu that came with the engine, which seems to give it a bit more power. On a brighter note-- I've finally got to the restoration part of my restomod. I find when I get burned out on the engine/mechanical work, switching to the body work and cosmetic stuff keeps it fun. - Got a deal on a carpet set from Esty in the for sale section of the FAQ. I installed with strong velcro so I can easily get to the body work if I needed. This also allows me to run some wiring under it. - Made a bluetooth audio setup with a friend's gifted Pioneer speakers, also velcro'd on the parcel shelf. I think they're from the 80s and fit well into the car aesthetic. The front is Kooglewerks under dash speakers, which are high quality but I think I need to turn them up a bit on my little Pioneer amp for better balance w/ the rear. - Blank Kooglewerks center console with cup holders. You can see the bluetooth radio minimal control above it. I need to make a little cnc'd plate to cut that up. It replaces the AC/Heat cuz Bay Area. - Replaced the rusted out spare wheel well finally Then I moved onto 2.5 months of body work... I'll share more about that in a post soon. @BGB - Im in the Castro near Dolores Park. Would be great to say hi! I tend to miss notifications here but use IG @whatyearisthat more often.

Awesome, thanks! I'll see if my insurance offers something similar, mostly to cover the investment into parts in the car as the body isn't in concourse shape

Fitting the g260 in the tunnel Modifying the tunnel will greatly depend on your motor mount setup. I used the Classic Daily m20 swap kit that puts the m20 engine low and to the rear. It’s a low center of gravity but does create some clearance issues. To fit the g260 well, I found that I needed to: Wail on the firewall area of the transmission tunnel with a dead blow hammer and also used a jack stand + small 2x4 for some areas to expand the diameter 2-3 inches. It’s thick metal, but if you take your time it’ll work and not look all banged up. Expand the tunnel near the clutch slave cylinder to allow a wrench to remove the cylinder. Without doing this servicing will be a big pain down the road. For the G260 to clear the steering, I needed a custom center link from 2002Underground (not sure if they’re 100% open but were super helpful) and shaved down the flywheel cover on the G260. It’s a tight fit now and without that custom center link, it’d be a ton of extra work. I made a simple selector rod and kept the shifter in the stock position, with some reinforced tabs to run the AKG e30 short shifter. It’s a comically short shift but feels great w/ no vibration. Progress: Other than that, I’ve been pretty busy moving apartments and moving from my outdoor work space to a new garage. But I have put time into a few areas as I prepare to move the 2002 from the workspace to my new apartment garage. Gauges: Speedhut 120mph GPS gauge- they run a few sales through the year IE tach adapter. This takes your ignition coil signal and converts it for the stock tach. You can do this w/ a resistor but I found a used converter on eBay for a deal and might hook up a shift light at some time Swapped in a switch that controls a strip of yellow LEDs to light up the fuel/temp gauge & tach. They’re a bit brighter than the yellow Speedhut lights but match well. I'm not sure if I'll wire up the fuel tank level sender. It wont be accurate w/ the e21 fuel pump that sits high but might be better than nothing? I have some ideas for other temp/pressure gauges. Interior: Test fit the interior and made a wooden rear seat support (took a shortcut here vs the replacing the rusted stock support). Found a deal on an Esty kit that I'll install after I put time into getting the car running well Setup the IE pedal. It's a tight fit with the expanded tunnel but feels great w/ the universal lokar throttle cable Exhaust: After researching a bunch of exhaust options, I ended up going with a setup that I’m pysched to hear on the car. I’ve only driven it with the IE m20 swap headers on a test drive and to a shop to install the full exhaust earlier this week. The exhaust setup starts at the IE m20 swap headers to a custom stainless downpipe/collector w/ O2 bung and ends in a full Kooglewerks exhaust- center exit. The exhaust is 2.25 inch from header output back to the tip. I don’t plan to go super high HP with the m20 engine so I opted for 2.25 and hoping it'll sound great w/ some performance gain. But we’ll see! this is my first build ? The exhaust should be done in a week or 2 and then it goes to my new place. Pardon the bumpers- I don't love the other options and the goofy ass bumpers add some charm I'm also paying $25/month insurance w/ basically no coverage so a bit of bumper doesn't hurt. I'm thinking about calling Hagerty but would love advice there.

Thanks! Let me know if you run into any issues as you get to wiring. I was considering reaching out to that fabricator to see if they'd do my downpipes but I'm not sure if they'd need my car there to account for engine position and steering clearance ?

Good to know about valve timing! Looks like I may have mistyped and that person mentioned "valve adjustment" (feeler gauge & adjusting rocker clearance) but the engine does a distinct lobey sound that I can't explain outside of maybe a performance cam. Next time I have the valve cover off I'll look around for any markings.

Took a 1st drive around the block! I posted the tail end of it on Instagram for those interested: https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cci9g4kJSjW A few notes from the drive: No horrible sounds or fires! Car handles 100x better than I remember on the original, worn suspension. AKG short shifter with the shifter arm I fabricated is super short and a smidge too far up, but not a priority now. I need to bleed the wilwoods a bit more and/or adjust the pedal so they actuate a bit earlier. Can't wait to put some miles on it but will have to be patient til it has an exhaust, alignment and brake break-in. For exhaust, I ended up ordering the Kooglewerks 2.25inch exhaust and will need a down-pipe fabricated to match it w/ the IE headers. I can't wait to hear the m20 with that setup. I've bounced between the ideas of hacking together my own exhaust, going to a local shop that might be turned off by a project or finding a specialty shop. The timing w/ Kooglewerks offering their exhaust is perfect. I've had multiple ppl comment that the m20 engine sounds cam'd (check the IG link above) and someone also mentioned valve timing could just be off. I'm a beginner and learning as I go so definitely curious on opinions here. The engine was a craigslist find and the PO was detailed enough to seem trustworthy but didn't mention an aftermarket cam. Posting this img in the off-chance a cam can be identified by eye ?‍♂️ The stock cams seem to have that bumpy texture

I've taken a ton of photos and videos along the way and definitely want to put together a build thread or blog. exhaust: Oh man, that m20'02 titanium exhaust would be perfect. If it were a month or 2 out, I'd get on board. I'm leaning towards a bottle-style vibrant resonator + vibrant 6" muffler (if this fits) but any advice would be much appreciated. Or even an existing 2002 2.25 exhaust that I could pair w/ custom downpipe. Do you know if anything like that exists? wiring: I'd be happy to share pointers for wiring though I'm very much learning myself. I pulled out the existing harness + fuse panel in favor of a MGI Speedware 12 circuit fuse panel. I'm putting this build together circuit by circuit and while I'm no electrical expert, I've put a ton of time into studying the 2002 electrical system. My resources are the Prospero's Garage 2002 wiring diagram, E30 wiki C101 guide, and m20 for dummies swap guide. To get the m20 running, I used the stock m20 engine harness and labeled then chopped the c101 off. I moved only what's necessary to run the engine to a weatherpack connector and will hook up sensors (oil pressure, temp, etc) soon so I have functional gauges. To get the m20 running, you just need to provide power through 3 wires: - Pin 6 on c101 green wire-- this is the ecu power. It needs 12v when in the ignition/run position - Pin 7 on c101 thicker green wire-- this is the ignition coil power. It needs 12v when the key is in the ignition/run position - Pin 18 on c101 black/yellow wire-- this is the starter signal. It needs 12v when the ignition key is in start position Other notes: - I have a separate fuel pump relay circuit that gets 12v when the ignition is in accessory/run/start position. I believe you can use the fuel pump relay that's on the m20 harness through c101 pin 13 (green/purple wire) but I'm just using a painless performance fuel relay. - I provided constant 12v power to the bundle of red wires on the m20 engine harness which I think powers the m20 harness main relay but honestly not sure if this is necessary. I might disconnect and test the results. If you're using the stock fuse panel and 2002 body harness, it's a matter of giving power to the above c101 wires in the correct key positions. Since getting the engine setup, I've setup a headlight circuit w/ relay, horn circuit + relay, fan circuit/switch + relay, turn signals, brakes, reverse light, etc. I'm a big fan of IE and have spent more than I'd care to admit w/ the company. I'd be happy to help in any way with wiring tips as you get into it. fuse panel installed where the heater core went and will be covered by a center console. A downside of the mgi fuse panel is wires come out the sides but I've tidied it up since

Quick update on my build! In the last few months, I've done the following: - Wired up basic systems using the MGI speedware 12 circuit panel. Includes classicautoled tail light LED kit, dual hella horns, h4 headlights, manual switch for mishimoto radiator fan. I've found learning wiring/electrical to be one my favorite parts of this build - Installed new IE e-brake lines - All fluids-- brake & clutch, transmission, diff and steering - Made some replica euro turn signals w/ bright LEDs. These work as running + turn signals. They need some touching up but I'm happy to not spend $400 on new ones and run these for a while - Rota (i know) 15x7 wheels installed w/ 195 Yokohama Advan Flevas and car back rolling - Tested reverse and 1st gear-- what a relief to know the car at least rolls and the transmission isn't s***. phew - Added more dynamat to the interior, cleaned up seats and installed - Cleaned up front grill What's up next: - Install IE pedal + 24 inch universal lokar cable - Start on gauges-- Speedhut GPS is coming and I got a deal on a tach converter. I'd like to do new bulbs. Overall the wiring diagram for this is tricky - Weight and torque suspension. Get another set of Ground control spring pads for lower rear - Start to plan the exhaust-- lots of good suggestions in this thread. I attached a photo of Kooglewerks setup that I'm thinking of using for inspiration. They're developing some nice options but I don't think any m20 support would come in time and while their quality justifies their prices, i'd need to sell a kidney. - current plan (2.25 inch the whole way back) : my IE m20 swap headers (ends in 2 2.25 vbands) > 2 to 1 collector w/ O2 bung > mid-section resonator > rear muffler out the center Any recommendations on Bay Area muffler shops or exhaust setup advice (m20 swap) much appreciated! exhaust inspiration

Looking to buy a set of good condition euro headlights with gaskets for my build: Post here or DM, thanks!! - Bill

I appreciate your message, Mike and I'm really sorry for your loss. I do have some jack stands and motorcycle-type lifts. I'll create some addtl. safety points on each corner before going under it this weekend! I grew up outside of Cleveland and went to school in Akron. Hope all is well in OH!

I appreciate the advice! Good call on the air filter-- I put a K&N filter on after that test run after making a simple bracket. I'll plug off the exhaust to keep moisture/debris out until installing a full setup. I'm optimistic on the radiator setup w/ the 14 inch mishimoto fan & adjustable temp sensor and I'll wire in a switch in case it's running hot. I opted to slice a section out of the nose to slot in the radiator so hopefully it works out ? Some good options there on exhaust. I'll do some more homework on those options. Any shops in the Bay Area you'd recommend for install? I'm still on the fence on DIY or paying a shop so I can get to driving. Rotas also fall into the get-me-driving-and-consider-replacing-later category. You really can't go wrong with the e30 basketweaves or maybe some Panasports. If i avoid the US-880, the Rotas should hold up air intake on the 1st (no compression m20)

Here are a few: definitely a 20 foot paint job that I'll eventually remedy and pardon the cinder blocks -- I work in a friend's lot and the ground is less than even so we went overkill vs trusting floor jacks

The IE headers have been great so far. Very high quality and no issues aligning with the studs. A small racheting wrench made it go much faster since there isn't a ton of clearance to get a socket wrench in there. I picked up their stud and copper nut set to replace the old hardware. Just looking into Vibrant now-- sounds amazing with a nice rumble as the engine decelerates. The headers have a 2.25 out and I'll need a custom downpipe/collector from there w/ an O2 bung but not sure on sizing from that point back.

Hey everyone, I'm an infrequent poster but longtime forum member and attendee of the Brisbane meetup. During the pandemic, my m20 swap project has really picked up and I just fired it up for the first time last weekend! A friend and I have done all the work (if it isn't obvious ?). I've taken photos and videos along the way but haven't posted much outside of http:instagram.com/whatyearisthat This car is a rust survivor and we've replaced the entire floor and repaired quite a bit of the body (still need to do the spare wheel well but that can wait). The on-going plan is to store the OG vin-matching engine but swap in an m20 and overhaul basically all systems (goodbye money ?). It'll be a performance oriented sleeper (no fender flares, airbags, body kit-- but you do you) for driving around CA. Anyways, I got the engine test fired (it's the 2nd m20 as the first had no compression) and I'll hook up the custom driveshaft and suspension this weekend. Then brakes, more wiring, exhaust, tires, dial in suspension a bit, test drive, etc The car: - 1975 BMW 2002 saved from the hells of rust, purchased from a man liar in Oregon before I knew better The engine: - 1990 m20b25 stock - Basic maintenance- gaskets, seals, timing belt, plugs, wires, coil, etc - Oil cooler, AC, power steering, fan, heating delete - throttle body with coolant delete and SSSquid spacer - received racing pros chip but going to run stock ecu for a while - IE m20 swap headers - 1990 honda 3 row aluminum radiator w/ Mishimoto fan + relay kit Suspension/drivetrain: - Ground Control coilovers - Reinforced front subframe from IE - IE roll center spacers - Catuned Monster adjustable rear subframe with 3.93 e30 diff - Getrag 260/5 w/ custom mounts - ACG tunnel-mounted shifter - Shortened and balanced e30 driveshaft Brakes: - IE big brake kit front and rear - Chase bays brake booster delete & e30 rear brake line set, handmade front line Wheels: Rota 15x7 mesh MGI Speedware 12 circuit fuse box-- slowly building my own harness but using the stock m20 engine harness **Not sure about exhaust or wheels yet-- any advice?? If you're still reading, thanks for checking out my build!

Thanks! Just emailed him last night.

Hey everyone, I'm doing an m20 swap and my current center link is rubbing the getrag 260. Does anyone happen to have: 1) a center link with a drop in it-- similar to what 2002undergound offered? are they still making any sales? 2) info on how to modify (or will it just fit?) an e28 center link? (faq search wasn't too helpful here) Thank you! Bill whatyearisthat.com