RMBaiada

I am currently working on replacing my engine driven fan with an electric fan and don't see how fitting everything through the grille would work with a big enough fan to cool everything.

That said, I was planning on going with a Spal fan since everyone says it is the best quality, but 14 months is not a lot.

I am wondering about your original setup and had a couple of questions if you have time.

My questions include:

1. Do you have an AC condenser
2. Do you have an original radiator
3. Which model number Spal fan did you use originally
4. What was the diameter of the fan
5. What was the max CFM
6. Did you use a PWM controller to modulate the fan speed 
7. Did you ever have any temperature or AC cooling problems in hot weather (i.e., high 90s) 
8. Is it very loud parked at idle or low speed driving

I have a Wallothnesch high cooling radiator and a 12" x 14" x 3/4" parallel flow condenser.

Any help that you can provide is appreciated.

Michael

dlacey,

I plan a pusher fan in front of my AC condenser and radiator because of the clearance problem you mention.

Michael

Steven,

I think that the edges of the radiator surround are pushed backwards about 1/8", which I could probably correct. In addition, WN recommends a 360 mm fan (I have a 400 mm fan) for the high cooling rate radiator so I could probably make it work to give me about 3/8" clearance from the fan blade and the radiator core.

That said, the electric fan seems a better long term solution and now is the time to do it with everything apart.

From what I can tell, I should be able to use either a 12" or 14" pusher fan with 1500 CFM or greater. Also, I think that I would like to do PWM controller to reduce the load on the electrical system, and vary the fan speed to reduce noise.

Now if I could only connect with someone who has AC with this configuration to find out which fan (CFM, Amps, diameter, etc.) they used with no cooling problems, it would be great.

Michael

chargin,

Can you tell me where you got the Thermo switch (manufacturer/part number), the temperature setting of the switch and the thread size?

I have the same drain plug on the side of my radiator as well.

Michael

rcf925,

First, thank you to both you and Healey3000.

It sounds like Healey3000 doesn't have AC, but I am wondering if you do?

Also, do you use a PWM controller for less noise, variable speed, soft start and less power draw?

Michael

Healey3000 and rcf925,

Was your installations of the 12" fan a replacement for the engine driven fan, or an addition to the original fan?

Michael

What I am hoping is to find detailed information from someone who removed the mechanical fan and installed an electric fan on an air conditioned 2002.

I know that it is a lot to ask, but my questions include:

1. Which fan did you install (make and model)
2. What was the diameter of the fan
3. What was the max CFM
4. Was it a 2 speed fan
5. How much amperage did it draw
6. Did you ever have any temperature or AC cooling problems in hot weather (i.e., high 90s)
7. Is it very loud parked at idle or low speed driving

Finally, I believe that a 14" diameter, round fan will fit in front of my compressor.

Thank you,

Michael

Does anyone have an update on the best, quietest electric fan to install in my 1974 2002 (VIN:4223665) to replace my mechanical fan? The posts I found on BMWFAQ were 8 to 10 years old (or more), and I assume that there are better, quieter fans available today that someone could recommend.

So far, I think that I need a 2 stage, S blade fan with air flow of 1,500 CFM or higher and as big as possible (14"?). Is this correct?

Any suggestions? Does a 14" fan fit between the 2 hood latch supports?

My plan is  to install a pusher fan in front of my 12" x 14" AC condenser (CN12X14 purchased from coldhose.com) and my high cooling rate radiator (A17111102621 purchased at wallothnesch.com).

For some reason, my completely rebuilt engine and new tropical 400 mm fan does not provide enough clearance to the new radiator, and instead of spending time figuring out why, the better plan seems to be to pull the mechanical fan and go with an electric fan.

Thank you,

Michael

I tried the link for the Universal Evaporator, but it is very difficult to see any information.  Can you provide a beteer link or tell me the name, part number and width of the Universal unit.  The only Universal units I could find were too wide, and interfered with the glove compartment.

Thank you

Michael

Thank you for the information.  I decided rather than try things to make the tropical 400 mm fan work, I am going to switch to an electric pusher fan.  I believe that this is a better solution in the long run.

Michael

How much clearance is actually needed between the radiator and the forward edge of the fan at the top and at the bottom with the engine off?

Currently, I have 1/4" of clearance between the front edge of the fan and the lip of the upper tank, but only 1/8" between the front edge of the fan and the lip of the bottom tank of the radiator.

I have read that the motor can move forward under acceleration and the fan can flex forward at high RPM. I have new motor/transmission mounts and a new 400 mm fan (red plastic). The engine was just rebuilt and hasn’t been started yet.

From reading the posts on BMWFAQ, it sounds like the lower clearance is a problem and 1/8" static clearance doesn’t sound like enough.

Also, is the curved piece in the picture below the movement limiter on the pax side of the engine that I have read about?

I really don’t want to start the motor for the first time and trash the radiator and fan.

Thank you,

Michael

Are you saying to install the dashboard, connect the electrics, install the instrument cluster, then connect the speedometer cable from the back of the metal shelf?

Michael

I got the speedometer cable into the transmission slot, but now have 2 more questions.

1. What is the proper routing of the speedometer cable under the car?  I routed it through the firewall grommet, down the middle of the brake booster bracket and around the pedal box, as the pedal box has a channel that looks like it is for a cable. But, with this routing, only 2.5” sticks through the hole in the metal shelf on which the dashboard sits, making it very difficult to attach the cable to the instrument cluster. Pictures would be great.

2. With the small transmission bolt fully tight, the end of the speedometer cable wiggles in the transmission slot. Is this correct?

Thank you,

Michael

Besides the defroster vents, is there anything else that needs to be installed prior to installing the dash board?

I don't want to install the dash and find out I missed something and then need to remove it again.

Thanks,

Michael

When I was trying to insert the end of the speedometer cable into the transmission, the end of the speedometer cable (11.26 mm dia) seems slightly too large to fit in the hole in the transmission. It is close, but not close enough. I filed the edges of the speedometer cable to make sure there were no burrs, but still doesn’t fit.

Any ideas?

Michael

The body grommet above from Rubber the Right Way in Sand Diego worked perfectly for under $6. All I did was drill out the center of the body plug on a downward angle, push the small transmission end of the cable through the hole and slide it down.

https://www.rubbertherightway.com/rubber-parts-body-plug-7-54080-prd1.htm

Michael

Actually, after looking at my windshield defrost vents, all 4 bolts are used to secure the vents. One for the center end of the vent and one for the curved part of the defrost vent to the side window.

Thank you, as I would not have thought of that until I tried to install the defrost vents.

I still plan to use the bolts to fabricate a small bracket to hold the dash near the windshield as those holes seem badly deteriorated.

I have four bolts (4 mm??) on the back side of my dash board. One on each side, and two in the middle, 1.25" behind where the dash attaches near the windshield.

Does anyone know what these bolts are for? None of these bolts seem to attach to anything on the body.

I am guessing that the two center bolts could hold a bracket to allow me to attach the dash near the base of the windshield. As you can see, there currently is no defined hole in the dash to insert any screws at the front of the dash to hold the dash in place.

I need to replace both of the rectangular vents in my dealer installed Frigiking AC faceplate for my 1974 BMW (VIN: 4223665).

The current vent is 5.9" x 1.96" and the current hole for the vent is 5.98" x 2.09", with small protrusions on each end to allow the vent to pivot.

Does anyone sell this A/C vent, or know where I might find a suitable replacement?

Your help is appreciated.

I found the 10w non-sunroof dome light bulb at Napa for $2.99, The Napa part number is 17314.

I need to replace both of the rectangular vents in my Frigiking faceplate. Does anyone know where to get new universal replacement vents that fit? The current vent is 5.9" x 1.96" and the current hole for the vent is 5.98" x 2.09". Obviously, the less modification to the Frigiking faceplate to accommodate the new vent, the better.

Thank you,

Michael

Thanks for the tip on popping out the louver. That made it much easier.

I still had to trim the stationary louver, but I got about 1" extra movement forward.

Michael

Below are pictures of my Frigiking evaporator and fan. You can see where the back top of the unit hits the heater footwell louvers. My plan is to trim the footwell louver and slides the unit forward.

DOes anyone have a Frigiking installation manual or paperwork?

Ray,

Thank you. My hoses don't seem to be the problem, although the return line that does the 180 bend seems to be a poor design.

Michael

I am installing a Frigiking AC evaporator in my 1974 BMW 2002, everything else is new. The Frigiking blower housing pushes up against the heater louvers for the footwell, but still leaves room for shifting, but it is tight. With the evaporator blower unit pushed all the way forward, there is about 1.375" from the back of the Frigiking  trim and the bottom of the front of the shifter.

I can trim the footwell heater louvers and cut out some of the fiberboard off of the transmission tunnel, which should allow me to push the evaporator unit farther forward. I am guessing that this should give me another .75" of clearance between the front Frigiking  trim and the shifter.

Can anyone provide pictures of a Frigiking  installation with the side panels on and off.

Michael