RMBaiada

Steve,

Thank you.  Would you have the measurements for the opening for the rear view mirror?

Michael

Does anyone know if the opening for the rear view mirror and the rear view mirror itself are the same on the 74, 75 and 76 2002s? 

Before I cut my new headliner, I want to make sure my mirror fits.

As best as I can measure through the headliner, the opening is 1 3/4" x 1/2".

On the mirror, the structure of the spring mechanism is 1 11/16" x 5/16", the width of the spring mechanism is 1 3/4" (tip to tip) and the outer edge of the mirror base is 2 1/4" by 1 1/8".

It seems like the tip to tip at 1 3/4" is the same as the side to side opening at 1 3/4".

As hard as everyone says it is to push in the mirror, it seems that the width of the opening would be at least 1/8" less than the tip to tip measurement of the spring mechanism?

Michael

Does anyone have any pictures of the grab handle screw holes prior to installing the headliner that they could post here or text me at the number below?

Michael

303-521-6047

Does anyone have any pictures of the grab handle screw holes prior to installing the headliner that they could post here or text me at the number below?

Michael

303-521-6047

See my list below for what BMW should produce for the BMW 2002.

• Front/rear accordion bumper extenders
• Flat capture nuts that attach to the door to attach the armrests
• Capture nuts for the side mirrors
• Black, angled button caps for the transmission seat belt bolt
• Small plastic cover for rear wing windows where they attach to the C pillar
• Inside, gray, hard plastic trim around doors and rear wing windows

Thank you.

Also, does anyone know of someone who makes new front and side trim panels for the FrigiKIng? My side panels are OK, but my front panel and vents need help.

I did the same thing and installed the headliner without marking how far up the screw holes are from the interior edge of the body opening for the rear wing window.  I have the fore and aft marked for the screw holes, but not the vertical.

I used a pin based on the picture above, but still couldn't locate the screw holes.

Does anyone have any pictures of the grab handle screw holes prior to installing the headliner that they could post here or text me at the number below?

Michael

303-521-6047

I have installed a Fridge King AC evaporator and fan unit inside my car. Everything else is new.

I am trying to install a relay so that when I turn on the AC fan, it disconnects the heater fan. I am using a 5 pole relay with a Normally closed (for the heater fan) and normally open (for the AC). When power is applied to the relay control circuit, the Normally Closed circuit opens to shut off power to the heater fan and the Normally Open circuit closes to allow power to the AC fan and compressor.

My question is how to hook up the controlling circuit so that the AC fan switch (3 speed) automatically shuts off the heater fan power.

There is a wire from AC fan switch to the temperature controller that only allows the temp controller to start the compressor when the fan is turned on.

I am thinking of connecting both a direct power wire (16 gauge ) and the Normally Open wire (12 gauge) to the power leg into the AC fan switch and then a relay control wire from the leg on the AC fan switch to the temperature controller. 

This means that the AC fan switch power feed would have 2 wires to it. One has power full time (16 gauge wire), and when you turn on the AC fan, it would energize the relay and would shut off power to the heater fan and provide power through the relay to the 2nd wire (12 gauge) to the AC fan switch power feed.

I know, confusing, but does this sound correct? Is there a better way to connect the relay to switch power between the heater fan and the AC fan?

Michael

Perfect. Thank you.

It looks like on my car uses part #11, 12 and 19. Part #18 must go to the Cabriolet with part #13.

Michael

From this discussion, I was able to figure out where parts #11, 12 and 19 fit. 

It seems like parts #18 and 19 are either or, as they both seem that they would provide the same function. Is this the case? 

My windows stop correctly at the top of the travel with parts #11 and 19, but I am missing one each of part #12 (plate) and 19 (stopper) for the driver's door.

Thank you,

Michael

Unfortunately, the wiper motor parks midway between the sweep, which means that if I let it park and installed the wipers, they try to go below the bottom of the windshield. To keep the wiper on the windshield, the wiper would park at a 45 degree angle to the bottom of the window.

Michael

Does anyone have pictures of the stoppers (11, 12, 18 and 19) installed?

Thank you,

Michael

I have reinstalled my wiper motor and it works, but now it parks in mid sweep. Is there a way to adjust the park position without removing the wiper motor and mechanism?

Also, if I have to remove the wiper motor and wiper mechanism, will it fit past the heater blower and the bar that locks down the hood?

Michael

I have just installed my roll up door window, but not sure where the part below goes. I believe that it is part #13 in the exploded view, but I can't see where it goes. Also, I don't have parts #11, 12, 18 or 19. Do I need those? What is there function?

Any help is appreciated.

I have the doors hung, the door stop in place, the latch/handle installed and wanted to know the easiest sequence for installing the windows?

I have all the pieces, and they are sitting inside the door in close to their proper position, but not sure how to connect everything. Which goes first, and what connects to what first? It seems like I can't tilt the window enough to connect it to the regulator with the vent window in place. Is there an article with pictures that describes the correct, step by step procedure to install the door windows?

1. vent window

2. regulator

3. rear vertical support

4. window glass

Thank you and stay safe.

Michael

303-521-6047

Does anyone have the part number for the vertical aluminum trim pieces that are pop riveted to the front side of the B pillar as shown in MildSeven's picture above?

Michael

Instead of the 4 screws to attach the rear quarter window vertical metal hinge assembly to the car, has anyone ever used 1/8" steel pop rivets?

It seems that this would be much easier than the tiny screws.

Michael

Instead of the 4 screws to attach the rear quarter window vertical metal hinge assembly to the car, has anyone ever used 1/8" steel pop rivets?

It seems that this would be much easier than the tiny screws.

Michael

Instead of the 4 screws to attach the rear quarter window metal hinge assembly to the car, has anyone ever used 1/8" steel pop rivets?

It seems that this would be much easier than the tiny screws.

Michael

I am having trouble putting the rubber seal on the bottom of the flag mirror. The small lip that goes on the outside of the mirror keeps tucking under the bottom edge of the mirror.

Does anyone have any tricks? Does the rubber seal go on the bottom  of the mirror before or after the mirror is on the door bracket?

The door bracket went on fairly easily.

.

Thank you

Michael

I did find a lock cylinder at BMW 2002 Door Lock Cylinder - Guaranteed Genuine BMW Parts, but, although it is labeled as a door lock cylinder, when I search the part number shown (51245476145), it comes back as a trunk lock cylinder.

Does anyone know if the door lock and trunk lock cylinders the same. In other words, can I buy a trunk lock cylinder, rekey it and use it in the door handle?

Stay safe.

Michael

Cell - (303) 521-6047

RMBMisc@Baiada.com

Does anyone know where I can purchase just a new door lock cylinder and the correct part number? RogersTii has the complete handle, but I want just the door lock cylinder.

My plan to repair the driver side door lock dust cover spring is to buy a new cylinder, rekey it to my current key and then install it.

Stay safe.

Michael

Cell - (303) 521-6047

RMBMisc@Baiada.com

Does anyone know of a locksmith in the US who could repair the dust cover spring for the dust cover flap that covers the key slot on the door handle of my 1974 BMW 2002? On my drivers door lock, the little dust cover door flops back and forth.

I have tried the local locksmiths in Denver and Huntington Beach with no luck.

Stay safe.

Michael

Cell - (303) 521-6047

RMBMisc@Baiada.com

The engine was a complete rebuild so the bore was clean and I also used an old piston to make sure the bore was clean.

The problem was definitely the new, Original BMW cam chain tensioner piston.

Stay Safe,

Michael

I am disappointed in that a brand new Genuine BMW cam chain tensioner piston would bind up in the bore. This caused the piston to NOT engage the tensioner mechanism, which, with no cam chain tension, made a clacking sound and could have caused severe damage to my brand new motor.

Hopefully, I caught and corrected the problem early enough.

To correct the problem, I had to polish the piston extensively with a fine synthetic steel wool to get it to slide smoothly in the bore.

I have primed the tensioner piston and the car started and seemed to run normally with no clacking sound coming from the front of the engine, which was the case when the cam tensioner piston was stuck in the bore.

I would like to thank everyone for all of your input.

Michael