RMBaiada

Do you still have the FrigiKing front and side trim panels, and are they in decent shape? I need to replace mine which is cracked.

Great info. I am just about to reinstall my door cards on my 1974 2002 after 25 years, and this is very helpful.

One question. I found the plastic washers and springs for both the roll up and vent windows, but only a small plastic washer for the door handle. I assume that there is no spring since the door handle is so close to the armrest screw.

Is the following correct?

Door handle

1.     Plastic cover

2.     No spring

3.     Door panel

4.     Round plastic washer

5.     Door handle

6.     Screw

7.     Outer snap cover

I am trying to install the gray pinch welt (windlace) on my door. I have the original pinch welts, which are still in good shape. I purchased my 2002A new in 1974.

The length of what the door pinch welt piece should be and pictures of where the pinch welt for the door starts and ends would be appreciated.

Mine doesn't seem long enough to cover what I believe it should cover as described below. My door pinch welts are 67" long which ends about 13" above the dashboard and about 33" short of the front of the door threshold plate. Maybe I cut the pinch welt years ago when I removed them.

From the bends in the pinch welt, I am guessing that the pinch welt starts at the rear of the threshold plate, up the B pillar, across the top of the door frame, down the A pillar and down below the dashboard to meet the front of the door threshold plate. 

Is this correct?

But if I can get the requested measurements, I know where to start poking.

I am ready to put my original visors back in my 1974 BMW 2002 (which I purchased new), but unfortunately was not smart enough to install screws before I installed the new headliner to help locate the holes. Now I need to locate the screw holes for the visor pivot point and clip. I found some great photos on BMW FAQ of the visor holes by DanVT (search - Photo request - sun visor mount points), but wanted some additional measurements. I plan to install the clips near the mirror first, and then use that to locate the hole for the visor pivot points.

Can anyone provide the driver side measurement shown in the picture between the left edge of the mirror mount at the headliner to the right edge of the clip, as well as the distance from the top of the rubber window seal to the bottom of the visor clip? I assume the passenger measurements would be the same.

All,

Thank you.

I ordered the BMW Door Panel Clip Fastener Sleeves from RogersTii (32331112031), and they have already shipped.

I ordered the armrest anchors (SH MET NUT, 07129925770) directly from BMW, and I pick them up on Wednesday.

Michael

Tech71,

Do you know what they are called or have a part number? I tried searching Rogers Tii, but no luck.

Michael

I am ready to install my door cards, but need the female plastic bits that attach to the door. Does anyone know the part number and where to buy them?

I have the plastic bits that attach to the door card.

Michael

Responding my own question, along with the post here, I also emailed Andrew Thorum, the technical rep at Ireland Engineering. Andrew emailed me back within an hour and suggested YouTube.

I found the following video on YouTube.
 

I followed the instructions in the video and had the CV joint back together in 5 minutes.

Stay safe.

Michael 

I purchased the Empi CV joints from Ireland Engineering ($125 apiece).

Everything was going fine, until the last CV joint (always the way), when while working the Redline CV-2 grease into the bearings, I went a little too far in one direction and popped past the ball bearings. I now have 2 pieces that I can't get back together. I rotated them in every direction, but the ball bearings just won't line up and slip into the grooves.

1. Is there a front and back to the inner splined piece like there is on the outer part?

2. Is there a special way to line the CV joint pieces up so it slips back together easily?

I have done this before, but so far, no luck. There has to be an easy way to put the CV joint together.

Any suggestions.

Unfortunately, Carl said that the 200 CV joints he ordered for La Jolla Independent are gone.

I need 4 new CV joints for my 1974 BMW 2002, which are NLA from BMW. Is there a cross reference for the 1974 CV joints to a different car (VW, Mercedes, etc.)?

I just need the actual CV metal part and not the boots, and would like new, not used.

Ireland has Empi CV joints ($125), which I assume cross from a different car.

Are these still available? I live in Oceanside?

It is definitely the CV joint. I can spin the wheel back and forth and see the outer part of the CV joint move, but not the axle.

I guess it is possible that the inner part of the CV joint is loose on the axle, but not likely that I would have missed that much wear in the splines.

Michael

I just rebuilt my 1974 2002. I noticed a slight knocking sound from the rear end, and just traced it to the outer CV joints. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of cleaning and regreasing my old CV joints, since they looked good, and I had no problem before I took my car apart. But that was 25 years ago, so maybe I did have a CV problem, but forgot.

Any suggestions on the best place to buy new CV joints (4), or new rear output shaft assemblies (2)? Also, do you have the part numbers for the CV joints and complete axle assemblies?

Michael

While my new AC cools nicely in my 1974 2002, the AC compressor still vibrates/growls/shudders between 1,200 and 1,400 RPM, both on acceleration and deceleration.

I spoke to the shop that charged my AC system, and they said that the Hobie Dave metal AC bracket for my 2002 is known to cause a vibration.

Has anyone heard anything about this? If this is a known problem, is there a solution or do I just live with it?

I did my 1974 2002 dash with the same product, and I am pleased with the result. I did mine with the dash and windshield out, which made it easy to do. I was concerned that I would have trouble with installing the instrument cluster, but no problem at all.

Dash Cover 1968 - 1976 BMW 2002 | Dashtop by Palco Industries

WWW.DASHTOP.COM

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Dash Cover for 1968 - 1976 BMW 2002 | Dashtop by Palco Industries

I installed an AC system in my 1974 2002. Everything is new, except for the FrigiKing Evaporator/fan unit, which I had cleaned, and pressure checked. 

I had the AC charged this week, which went well and was cooling nicely. The next day, I went to drive it and the compressor (Sanden 508, Model #4808) kept locking up and the belt was screeching and there was a compressor vibration/growling from 1,200 to 1,400 RPM. I can feel the compressor vibration through the shifter. The compressor was also hard to turn by hand. We pulled the system down again and pulled out 2 oz of oil.

After recharging the system, the compressor was now easy to turn by hand, the locking up/belt screeching is gone and the system was blowing nice cold air, but, while better, the vibration/growling at 1,200 to 1,400 RPM is still there.

From what I found online, the Sanden 508 comes with 10.1 oz of oil, but the AC tech said it should have no more than 5 oz of oil. Also, the AC tech said that the pressure on the high side is 325 psi, about 50 psi higher than normal.

AC Oil Questions

1. Is the compressor vibration/growling between 1,200 and 1,400 RPM still too much oil?

2. How do you know when the amount of oil is correct?

3. Do I have to discharge the system, pull the compressor and turn it over to see the actual amount of oil in the compressor?  I don't see any oil drain plug on the compressor.

4. Is 325 psi too much pressure, and is the higher pressure possibly caused by too much oil?

Finally, is there a way to tell if the dryer is bad. I installed all of the AC components except the evaporator and taped the hoses to the evaporator closed in 2020, but installed the evaporator and fully sealed the system in Jan 2022. I finally charged the system this week. 

I saw some previous posts on adding power steering to my 1974 2002 which mentioned the Dutch company below, but they are dated.

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/type/161/24/BMW_2002.html

Are there any updates on power steering or power assist for a 2002? HAs anyone done the Dutch install?

Disregard.

My MGA has the valves front to back, not side to side.

Disregard.

My MGA has the valves front to back, not side to side.

I have a 1961 MGA 1622, 4-cylinder engine in my 1957 MGA, with a 1-3-4-2 firing order. I always adjusted the valves using the following easy to follow sequence using the rule of 9.

I assume that this would apply to my 1974 BMW M10 engine as well given the same 1-3-4-2 firing order.

Is this correct?

Valve that is open plus valve to be adjusted always = 9. Also, two valves are always open at same time, so you can adjust 2 valves at a time.

     Adjust #1 when #8 open = 9

     Adjust #2 when #7 open = 9

     Adjust #3 when #6 open = 9

     Adjust #4 when #5 open = 9

     Adjust #5 when #4 open = 9

     Adjust #6 when #3 open = 9

     Adjust #7 when #2 open = 9

     Adjust #8 when #1 open = 9

Ok, I did number 3.

With the timing set to show the ball at 1,500 RPM, I had to set the digital timing light to 16 degrees to see the ball at maximum advance. This means that I am getting 41 degrees of advance (25 and 16) at a max timing advance when the ball stopped moving above 3,200 RPM.

A max advance of 41 degrees seems to be too much advance at too little RPM.

Michael

Lots of discussion on the Forum about what the M10 timing should be, but other than setting the ball in the port at 1,500 RPM (which I did), I am not sure how to test max advance on my rebuilt engine (Weber 38/38 DGAS, 10.5:1 compression, 288 degree duration and a 10 mm lift cam, Yttrium Electrode WR 8 DC+ plugs set at .032", 2002 Tii Distributor with mechanical advance/electronic points).

Unfortunately, I replaced the front crankshaft pulley with a new one for the air conditioning compressor, and I could not find any timing marks or pointer, so the front pulley is out.

That said, a couple questions.

1.     Is there a TDC mark on the flywheel along with the ball?

2.     Without the timing mark on the front pulley, and assuming that there is a TDC mark on the flywheel, can I just set my digital timing light to around 35 degrees advance or so and then the TDC mark should show up and stop in the timing port on the top of the transmission case around 3,800 to 4,000 RPM?

3.     Without a TDC mark on the flywheel, can I just set my digital timing light to 10 degrees advance (10 + 25 = 35) and then see the ball stop in the port at around 3,800 to 4,000 RPM?

Michael

I just installed a phenolic spacer under my Weber 38/38 DGAS carburetor (1974 2002, owned since new), and now I need a shorter air cleaner than the Redline (2-5/8" tall K&N) that came with the carburetor to prevent damage to the hood.

I like the flow, height and look of the RamFlo, but the BMW FAQ posts on the RamFlo are old, with some of the posts from the mid 2000s saying that the RamFlo filter was flammable.

I assume that RamFlo has corrected this but was hoping to get some updated information on the RamFlo 1000 and 600, or any other suggested air filter that is around 2" tall that works well and looks good.

Michael