Lost&FoundDept

I did this job a couple years ago same way as Mike Self and mangled one. I could tell it was going in rough right away. I think it was not enough dish soap. Used and insane amount of soap on the replacement and all the others and they went in like butter. Very satisfying. 

In case it's helpful I found the box for the bearings (PN 311 405 625) I had to use with my spindles, the inner bearing inner diameter for the bearing is 27mm. From your measurements, you have the assumedly more common, larger spindles. 

A couple years ago I seeked out new strut tubes/spindles as one of mine was bent. I installed them and everything went together fine but I had a slight wobble when I put the hub/wheel back on. I ended up bringing it to a shop and they found that the inner bearing was slightly loose on the spindle. They found a bearing with the right Inner dimension to fit the spindle and right outer dim to fit the hub. The spindle outer bearing dimensions were as normal for the 2002. I didn’t look into it but assumed I had bought strut tubes originally from a 1600. 

Checking if anyone has these bolts/washers/nuts they would part with. A friendly Faq'er gave me a rear subframe with the plates welded on but didn't have the eccentrics to go with it.

Thanks and Happy driving all!

Price lowered to $125. Where’s my Minnesota people?

Looking for someone who can pick these up in the Minneapolis area. They came off my uncle in-laws 76 (5x13) a few years ago and I put new Federal SS595 185 60r13 tires on them. They're balanced and I only ran them one summer. The rubber is nearly perfect. The wheels on the other hand need a good spiffing up.   

I never looked how the OEM m42 was set up. Unless you already have switched 12v sources for these pins, Coil and DME, The relays are needed so they only recieve power when the car is on. From what I recall I ran new lines for both these. (It's been 2 years) I assume the fuse is important to protect the DME. 

3 minutes ago, Spyke said:

That's massively helpful. Looks like pin 6 and 7 are indeed just signal only, so I'll be ignoring Jakeb's call for relays. 

 

Thank you very much, I'm not sure why that didn't come up in all my forum searches, but I am saving the shit out of that link. Thank you kind sir!!!

Glad it helps. A mechanic friend showed me that thread. I will say I still definitely followed JakeB's writeup. Pretty sure I added 2 relays, 3 if you include my fan relay. And 4 or 5 fuses.

I found this helpful when I did my swap. 
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/m50-52-s50-52/128000-love-your-c101
Adams autosport tach adapter worked great for me. 
 

it’s a super fun engine in the car. 

57 minutes ago, 02tradition said:

I have a pair for $150 plus Shipping. @Lost&FoundDept

@02tradition dm'ed thanks!

thanks @adawil2002.  They're nice tubes. Hoping for less than $200 all said. 

One of mine is bent giving uneven camber. I can't tell which is incorrect so just looking for a set, Don't need springs or strut inserts, Just good solid tubes. Located in Minneapolis.

Thanks

Jamie

8 hours ago, otto said:

@bluehills2002 I've had this exact question on my mind too. Particularly thinking about what to do with my original blue-plate CA car, now in Minnesota. MN too has a rule where you can find an original plate of YOM and, if the number isn't taken, put it on your car. 

 

This said I'll always think of Otto as a Blue Plate CA car...

 

I’m in MN and I looked into yom plates for my 75. The 74,75 plates in MN were 2 letters followed by 4 numbers AA 0000. When I called the dmv they basically told me anything in that form is reserved. I’d love to know if you find different info or a workaround.