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Lost&FoundDept

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  1. I did this job a couple years ago same way as Mike Self and mangled one. I could tell it was going in rough right away. I think it was not enough dish soap. Used and insane amount of soap on the replacement and all the others and they went in like butter. Very satisfying.
  2. In case it's helpful I found the box for the bearings (PN 311 405 625) I had to use with my spindles, the inner bearing inner diameter for the bearing is 27mm. From your measurements, you have the assumedly more common, larger spindles.
  3. A couple years ago I seeked out new strut tubes/spindles as one of mine was bent. I installed them and everything went together fine but I had a slight wobble when I put the hub/wheel back on. I ended up bringing it to a shop and they found that the inner bearing was slightly loose on the spindle. They found a bearing with the right Inner dimension to fit the spindle and right outer dim to fit the hub. The spindle outer bearing dimensions were as normal for the 2002. I didn’t look into it but assumed I had bought strut tubes originally from a 1600.
  4. Checking if anyone has these bolts/washers/nuts they would part with. A friendly Faq'er gave me a rear subframe with the plates welded on but didn't have the eccentrics to go with it. Thanks and Happy driving all!
  5. Price lowered to $125. Where’s my Minnesota people?
  6. Looking for someone who can pick these up in the Minneapolis area. They came off my uncle in-laws 76 (5x13) a few years ago and I put new Federal SS595 185 60r13 tires on them. They're balanced and I only ran them one summer. The rubber is nearly perfect. The wheels on the other hand need a good spiffing up.
  7. I never looked how the OEM m42 was set up. Unless you already have switched 12v sources for these pins, Coil and DME, The relays are needed so they only recieve power when the car is on. From what I recall I ran new lines for both these. (It's been 2 years) I assume the fuse is important to protect the DME.
  8. Glad it helps. A mechanic friend showed me that thread. I will say I still definitely followed JakeB's writeup. Pretty sure I added 2 relays, 3 if you include my fan relay. And 4 or 5 fuses.
  9. I found this helpful when I did my swap. https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/m50-52-s50-52/128000-love-your-c101 Adams autosport tach adapter worked great for me. it’s a super fun engine in the car.
  10. thanks @adawil2002. They're nice tubes. Hoping for less than $200 all said.
  11. One of mine is bent giving uneven camber. I can't tell which is incorrect so just looking for a set, Don't need springs or strut inserts, Just good solid tubes. Located in Minneapolis. Thanks Jamie
  12. I’m in MN and I looked into yom plates for my 75. The 74,75 plates in MN were 2 letters followed by 4 numbers AA 0000. When I called the dmv they basically told me anything in that form is reserved. I’d love to know if you find different info or a workaround.
  13. Thank you. Luckily I didn't go into as much detail as I could have or it would have been much longer. We had been planning to paint the car for a while, the paint looked ok at a glance but there was a lot of rust bubbles starting to come through so we knew it was going to have to be addressed. Yes, I got the m42 kit from Jakeb and he includes a header and a flange. I bought the downpipe Jake recommended and the exahust shop used that to connect to the rest of the factory exhaust.
  14. Early last year 2018, a friend, Rob swapped a m20 into his 318 Convertible and he asked me if I'd want his m42. I'd been interested in this swap for a while so I said absolutely. I was pretty intimidated no matter how many writeups saying it's easy I read. And thanks to all those who have done writeups before me. They were all super helpful. Big shoutout to Jakeb for infinite and timely help along the way to my millions of questions he answered amazingly quickly considering how busy I can imagine he is. Special thanks to my buddies Rob and Austen For full disclosure on my car experience. I have always been a figure-it-outer but as far as cars go I have changed oil myself on nearly all my cars, I've replaced a catalytic converter, changed rotors and pads (with help) but any major engine work I've always gone to a shop. A lot of this felt way over my head but breaking it up into digestible pieces made it doable. Pics below show where I started and the progress. Rob and Austen dropped off the m42 one cold February 2018 afternoon and we set it up on a stand. It was pretty filthy and crusty. I felt if I was doing this I didn't want to just drop in a dirty engine. I also wanted to have a better understanding of all the components and use this all as a learning experience, so hopefully when something fails I'll be able to fix it myself. I wanted to pull apart and see firsthand how everything works and goes together, replace anything that didn't look good and replace as many seals as I could. I left the rear timing case housing in place and didn't remove the head. I ended up having to replace all the timing rails, but Blunt thought the sprockets and chain were fine. I sent the valve cover and intake pices to a local powder coater to get refinished. This work took me most of the summer cleaning, painting when I had time. Having never done any of this before I was pretty slow and methodical, doing lots of reading before doing anything. I was also tracking down all the other parts needed for the swap since Rob just had the engine, driveshaft, flywheel, clutch and computer. So I had to find all the other bits elsewhere - Radiator, transmission, fuel pump, battery cable etc. It was a lot of stuff. I'm hesitant to go through my reciepts and add it all up. The big day finally came in the fall. Rob came over and we pulled out the m10. This part wasn't that bad having someone experienced like him to help. While the engine was out I figured there was never a better time to clean up the engine bay. I've never really particularly like red cars. The first 02 I recall seeing in person was a Colorado in Vancouver BC and always loved it. I also really liked Inka. I put the 2 to a vote with my wife and 3 year old and Inka won. (I was the lone Colorado vote) My Father in law is a huge Buick guy. I think he was 7 50's Buicks right now, all restored by him. He had offered to paint the car and so he came up and we cleaned up and sprayed the bay Inka. I checked into getting the legit OEM paint and the price was way too high (I think when I priced it out over $1000 for the paint) He had used Nason for all his Buicks and I think in the end paint was about $300. Single stage urethane. The plan then was that he would do body work over the winter while the car is stored at his house and paint it in the Spring. More about that later. It seems like i didn't get and shots of the engine going in but here it is in. It came from above with the transmission attached. There was still tons to do and I enlisted Austen (@millcitymoto612 on Instagram), who's a super talented full-time mechanic. He currently runs a supercharged m3 in his e30. He and I or just me plugged away at it for about a month. I wanted to do the "Mess under the intake" mod and Austen was super helpful here getting everything plumbed up. The wiring was a bit of a mess for a while. I didn't really want to clean it up until all the wiring for everything was done, and there was still things like installing the tach adapter and where exactly I wanted to locate the new fuses and relays so we just cleaned up the best we could and left wires long for the time being. You can see in this pic the new fuse box and relays are near the 02's fuse box. I ended up putting the fuse box wat up front to the left of the 02 relays. I put one of the new relays in the open spot next to the 02 relays and the other new relay was placed near the firewall where the m42s relays are. First start 56150607154__24755DC3-E9BA-4E89-AD1A-D155C2826F3B.MOV At the same time I swapped in a e21 LSD I had picked up earlier in the year. It was pretty crusty but cleaned up nicely. Had Ireland send a set of redrilled flanges and got new seals for the flanges as well. When I pulled the 02s diff I found that the mount bushings were shot so had a local shop, Huber Imports near me in Golden Valley press in new ones. Werner Huber and his sons run the shop, they are the nicest people you'll meet and reasonable prices, highly recommended if you're in the Minneapolis area. Found a torn CV boot so learned how to fix that too, which was much easier than I thought it would be. Messy, but pretty easy and satisfying. Austen had a really cool way, I thought, for shortening the shifter linkage. Maybe this is a common knowledge way to do it but I never read about it anywhere online - I got my measurement the best I could and then cut a section out of the linkage that was very close if not a bit short. Then, since the linkage is basically just a tube I tapped the inside of each side of the now cut tube and used a big corresponding bolt and threaded it all together. Then if theres any adjustment you need to make you just unscrew it a couple turns. Once I was happy with the shifter position I just popped over to the CarX near me and they welded it up. For the carrier I ran into a bit of a snag. I was assuming my 02 carrier would work, just that it would be too long and need to be trimmed down. I was wrong, it was too short, it's the e21 carrier that can be shortened. I didn't really want to wait around for one to come so I instead bolted some flat iron to my 02 carrier to make it work. Looks ugly but it works. I do have an e21 carrier from Jakeb sitting in my garage, just need to put it on. One of the parts I realized too late that I was missing was the throttle linkage. This is where all my watching MacGyver in the 80's paid off. The car was basically done and I wanted to get it to the exhaust shop to get welded up so I rigged up this ugly thing. It's a lumber tie leftover from when I built my deck and a bracket from an Ikea shelf. Vroom Luckily it was only about a mile or so to the exahust shop. The car wasn't running great, I assume because of the lack of the oxygen sensor. Also, I had no idea what the engine temp was doing because my gauge wasn't working yet. The exhaust shop did confirm the engine was staying at operating temperature. Later, After lots of headaches and red herrings I figured out that the sensor I had pulled off the m10 for the temp gauge was not working. Swapped in a new one and the gauge came back to life. A few other notes. I used the m20 flywheel and clutch with the getrag 240. I don't have a frame of reference for the difference vs the dual mass but the car definitely feels peppy. I didn't really go through the transmission when I got it (came from a junkyyard in Iowa) I probably should have. I was having an impossible time bleeding the clutch and came to find that the slave cylinder was shot. I watched a video about changing the slave when the transmission is in a 318. Looks easy. In the 02 the tranny sits so close to the tunnel and had to use enough socket extensions to reach about 3 ft and I still got bloody knuckles. I also found that the clutch sounds a little buzzy un release. I used a new throwout bearing and new clutch fork and spring clip. 2nd gear is a little tough to go into. After it was all running I had about a week to drive the car before it was time to send it to storage at my Father in Laws. I usually drive it there but I was a little nervous to to the 2 hour drive knowing all the kinks weren't worked out yet so I used my AAA to have it towed. My father in law spent the winter picking away at the bodywork. When we went there he already had the hood, doors and fenders bondo-ed up. The big bumpers were going to be replaced for early bumpers so he did the appropriate bodywork to prep for that. We also filled in the lower plastic trim holes. The cold and snow (and salt) lasts forever here in Minnesota so we didn't go down to pick up the car until early May. We went down to Austin, Mn on a saturday and the plan was to do that last bits of work and then I'd drive it back to Minneapolis the next day. We needed to get both windshields back in, install the new door panels, and attach the new early bumpers. On Sunday I thought Mark and I should take a shakedown drive to see how the car was running. About a mile in I noticed the temp gauge get to 3/4. Pulled over and could see coolant under the car. We were still pretty close to home so we limped back. This is where my time pulling that engine apart came in handy. It was hard to see where the leak was coming from but finally found that the hose on the plastic water diverter off the block coming from the heater core had completely popped off. It wasn't the most difficult fix, but the upper intake had to come off. No clamp was in site, so either there I missed putting one on there in the first place or it fell on when the hose came loose. Got it back on with a clamp Mark had laying around and refilled and bled the coolant for probably the 3rd time since putting the m42 in. The drive home was great. No issues. Here's a few other pics and notes. I still have a list of things to do. I have HR springs and front sport struts that need to go on. I want new wheels but am undecided what to get. My wipers aren't working (new relay, pulled wiper motor, looks fine) They were starting to work only at random times even before the engine swap. For the tach I first tried the MSD adapter and it just never did anything, Jake said I should try Andrews Autosports and that one worked right away though it seems to read about 500 RPMs low. I'm still trying to find out how to calibrate it. I installed some Squatch pads in the engine bay. They are awesome, highly recommended. For anyone doing the job, I really didn't want to pull the hood so I had started masking non spray areas quickly realizing how much tape and unsure how to get the pad under the torsion bar after spraying without it getting messed up. I pulled all my masking tape, put the pads in place unsprayed under the torsion bar and put a little masking tape to hold the top from folding down. Then I sprayed a bunch of Super 80 into an old frisbee and applied to the hood and pad with a foam brush starting at the bottom and working my way up. Work toward the bottom from the torsion bar and then work up from the torsion bar. Took me all of 20 minutes. Worked great, no adhesive where I didn't want it and didn't have to remove the hood. You can see in the first pic here the radiator is zip tied to the nose. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out a nice solution to tieing the radiator in. Metal would be preffered but not having any fab machinery I looked for a durable plastic that could be used. I found a piece of J channel thats intended for installing vinyl soffits at Home Depot. They only had white but black is an orderable option which I think would look better. You can see my white one in the pic with thw squatch pads. I used some expandable rubber grommet fasteners to tie them together. Thanks for reading. Again big thanks to everyone who helped me along the way. Really wouldn't have attempted any of this withoug you. My father in law Mark, Austen, Rob, Jakeb and Blunt. Shameless plug - I'm a freelance graphic designer in Minneapolis so if any of you need any design help from a fellow 02er let me know. My work - https://lfdept.com email - jamie@Lfdept.com
  15. Get2theBimmah To wrap the console sides I first spray glued some closed cell foam padding (pretty thin) to both sides of the pressed wood forms. I traced a pattern of the console sides onto my vinyl and sewed on the pattern together, the parts that would be hidden I didnt sew so I could insert the wood forms into the sewn covering, I left the unsewn parts that are hidden long and used those to pull the vinyl tight around the wood and used stapes to attach those. Hard to explain, but hope it helps.
  16. cstok3s no padding under the carpet. I did put a bit of dynamat under a few areas.
  17. Thanks cwlo! No, The floor mats are coco mats. really like them. They send a pdf of the patterns before you commit. I printed them out full size and tested them and they were a bit too tall I thought in the fronts and the driver mat was going to stick up under the clutch as well so I adjusted their patterns and sent back to them and they made them from my revised.
  18. The first couple of years I've owned the car I just drove it. Didn't really touch anything. Then I came across a e21 Recaro driver side seat on craigslist for $40. It was trashed but for $40! The guy I bought it from turned out to be a super nice dude who's become a friend. Watch out for Austens Superchaged M3 swapped e30. I spent the next year lazily on the lookout for a passenger seat at a decent price and eventually one popped up on ebay. Price was reasonable so now I had the set. After being blown away by local reupholstery pricing I sent them out to Dave at Aardvarc. I knew wanted cloth/vinyl but it was hard to source fabric online. I wanted something salt and pepper looking, like TV static, and found what I thought a great match online. It ended up being a little less peppered than I wanted but overall was happy with the results. Here's pic of my son enjoying the comfort of freshly reupholstered Recaros. I also had Dave make a matching rear cover that my Father in Law and I threw on. My next little project was redoing the shot and smelly sunvisors. I used the original vinyl to trace out a pattern then I cut and sewed up new ones from the same fabric I used for the seat. I think if I was to do it again I would do the seat fabric on the backside only and some sort of off white vinyl on the side you see when they’re up so you only see the fabric when the shade it flipped down. I think my positioning of the clip must be off as well since part of the shade bumps the headliner when flipping it down. My next bigger project was the center console. The vinyl/plastic material had tons of holes through the side from fixes throughout the years. It seems screws through the side was how it came from the factory. I was determined to hide all the fastener. My goal was a simple but tastefull console that had the modern convenience of a CarPlay touchscreen display. I had a bunch of Mahogany veneer left from a table refinishing so I wanted to use that also and stain it very dark/close to black while still letting some woodgrain show through. Here's my original console. I dissasembled it all. Wasn't hard since it was falling apart anyways and was left with the 2 particleboard side panels and the hardware that holds it together. I wrapped the panels in some thin foam, Super77'ed on that I had lying around. I bought some nice looking vinyl from the fabric store and wrapped them back up, stapling in areas I knew wouldn't be visible once it was all back together. It looks like I wasn't the best at documenting the entire process but here's the few pics I have. Making the new face was the most difficult part. I did it twice because I wasn't happy with the first one. It basically involved carboard aided mockups to get the angles how I wanted them to fit the new Pioneer unit I had bought. I wanted it to all have a clean look so routered out some of the back of the stereo opening to allow it to sit flush (it's ugly but you don't see it) I also wanted to add a couple of VDO gauges and move the harzard light to nice spot right in the middle. When I got the gauges I ordered I cut holes for them but wasn't happy with how they looked so I sent them back and bought the chrome ringed version. (Yes that's a turbo gauge. No I don't have a turbo... yet) The new gauges looked awesome but apparently were a hair smaller than the ones I had drilled holes for so there was a gap. Not wanting to redo the face panel I searched and searched and found that camera ring adapters would take up the space perfectly and not annoy me too badly. I also made the pocket a little more functional but adding an inset tray lined with the seat fabric and a phone holding slot. The wiring plug for the hazard light just barely reaches in this position. Here was the end result. New carpet. The carpet in the car was smelly, dirty and old. Time to go. I ordered a new set from Esty and she even had a really great Salt and Pepper color. The install took me a few hours but it was really pretty easy and I'm happy with the result. If you're thinking about getting carpet from her, do it. Better shots of the console installed and the rear seat reupholstery here too. Other things done so far are new speakers in the kick panels (there were already giant holes cut in there) and a new rear parcel shelf with inlayed hidden undermount speakers. Don't have a pic of that right now.
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