evil02

Ok, thanks. I was really looking for a picture of the back of the hub.  Interesting strut design too.

What does the back side of the hub look like?

I forget the year but, I'm using a M5 flywheel and clutch with a Getrag 265 from en E30 M3. Fits great..

1 hour ago, irdave said:

Coatings, DLC and the like, make a difference in the suspension you can feel with your hand.  Big difference in big car suspension?  Probably not, weights and spring rates and friction (bushings) are so great.  Bicycle / moto?  Oh yeah, for sure.  Maybe start putting heim / rose joints in the suspension on the car, maybe start being able to feel that stuff in the car, too.

In many past Porsche turbo race motors, I used oil shedding coatings, DLC coated everything, Mahle slipper skirts with anti friction coatings, hard anodized piston ring lands to keep the rings square and ceramic coatings to manage heat. I always used Calico coated bearings(custom sized rod and crank bearings, always smaller). All of them were dry sumped motors and made great power over a normal street build. All that and maybe it got a few more HP but, more important, I gained longevity between rebuilds and ran a pound or two more boost. In the inline 4cylinder turbo motors that were 2.5ltr to 3.2ltr, I always ported between the cylinder bases to help move the air and ran a windage tray to help oil control.

 For mild to somewhat strong street build (somewhere around double the OEM hp rating), I just used good machine work and coated Calico crank bearings and it was enough for a motor that wasn't pushed non stop. Of course the motor is built for the max it was pushed too but, not built to sustain that for hours on end, just an autocross or open track day or such.

I would also consider other 3pc wheel centers.

12 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I have the rims already. The PO put them on with very stretched 195-50-15. He also failed to cut the fenders, so cutting and grinding is already on the menu.  Is there any way to get pics? What offset / size are you are running?

I'll see if I can get you pictures today.

43 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

So in the what-it's-worth category.  I am looking at 245-40-15's for my 9" (ish) rims and turbo flares.  I know that they will scrub up front, but how much is the issue.

 Ride height matters a little too. My car slammed with 245's will hit seem at the fender and unibody. Ok so, grind that away and too far in and your hitting the firewall/pedal box area. My advice to you is order the rims and tires and start drinking heavily until they come.. Once they come, install them and cut away anything they hit. Go full steering lock and check at various ride heights. You will be fine. I promise..

4 hours ago, gary32 said:

Check this out.4 Piston 2.0L Engine Build | 2016+ Honda Civic Forum (10th Gen) - Type R Forum, Si Forum - CivicX.co.pdf

If you get lucky, you can buy one from HPD with a harness and ECU for for $9k ready to race!

10 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Just as long as it's not too loose.

Its no hotdog in a hallway but, there's room..

Worst case is an open header v10..  It will sound like one of these two cars..

Hello,

 I'm looking for any E50 BBS wheel centers or whole wheels. 15" would be best but, would entertain other sizes.

thanks!

9 minutes ago, Lorin said:

 

Maybe the glove isn't all the way on yet.

 I mean should I have said, this thing doesn't even come close to fitting?   There are mysteries on this planet but, this motor fitting in the engine bay isn't one of them

13 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

The motor needs headers to run, so in my mind headers are part of the motor.

 

Fits like a glove usually means fits perfectly. I see a custom subframe and other fabrication that looks like it took a lot to make it fit.

 I like to focus more on the glove and less on the fit.  The motor fits in the engine bay. Anything after that is trivial.

36 minutes ago, 2002iii said:

 

These statements are contradictory.

 

I know the t5 can be made stronger, but it's much easier and cheaper to just get a t56. The t56 is good for at least 450hp stock.

 

Yeah it was most likely a crate 383 with 400-430hp.

How was my statement contradictory?  The motor fits like a glove. The headers do not. Keep up!

   A fully built T5 is about $1500-2k. A fully built Muncie m21 or m22 is about $2900 and can handle over 1000hp.  My T56 magnum was $3500 shipped and can maybe handle 1000hp. I'm going to put 950hp/950tq through it and I'll let you know how it does.

 RPM's is the bigger issue. T56's don't like to shift at high rpms. Over 7k and you are looking at getting new syncro's and face plating. That service is around $5k+ and that is after the $3500 for the trans!

10 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

At the risk of offending everyone, he would have gone a LOT faster if he'd have taken his foot off the brake....

 

HOW DARE YOU!! 

#highly offended we aren't talking about NO2 yet.

15 minutes ago, TobyB said:

This.  The S10 transmissions were quite low torque,

but by the end, they were doing ok.  And then

Tremec kept improving them incrementally.

 

t

STILL fixated on that aluminum- case Muncie, tho...

There are places that still build m21's and 22's that will take over 1000hp. T5's and super 10's can't get that high but, plenty stout for 500tq.  Lots of drag shops still making these transmissions work well.

https://www.autogear.net/

37 minutes ago, Lorin said:

E30 looks great, I love it. Any idea when that will be running?

   Right now the headers are a nightmare. The driver side header terminates right into the steering so, that is the first thing to tackle and then tons of sheet metal work. The goal is to have it built, running and driving by the end of the summer/fall. Then it will be taken back apart, painted(full rotisserie) and then re assembled so, it may not be done for a full year or so. This is something we just work on when we can. I'm also building a 2002 and a 68 Camaro all at the same time so, things drag on.

1 hour ago, gary32 said:

 

So, to cheer everyone up. How about the S85 we just chucked into the M3? Fits like a glove!

 

Which M3?

 

Posted that clip because I was offended by a 2002 conversion that "makes noise and attracts attention".

I understood this thread intent to lift the bar for diy assembly of turbo long blocks. 

Ignoring history and constructive comments from solid members of the community is not how this gets done.

 E30 M3.   Sorry if I offended anyone. I assumed this was an internet forum where like minded people have fun talking about BMWs?  At least the S85 is still a BMW product and the e30 M3 is a worthy transfer.

5 hours ago, 2002iii said:

With an iron block 5.3 turbo weighing around 500 lbs not including transmission, that car is now a straight line only car. I call bs on the 2400lbs, engine weighs at least 200lbs more than stock and a roll cage and bigger transmission.

 

There is a reason GM never offered the t5 transmission with a 350 it's because people broke them with 305s, so why would you put one behind a 383?

 The T5 can be built to take some power. I don't think this was a big budget build so I doubt the 383 has much more than 400-425hp. They can be built for over 500hp but, your spending some serious coin on heads.

i

Quote

I'm not sure whether you've got another 18 seconds to spare, but this looks like the same car (with the previous V-8 engine). 

  Much better. I have to laugh and think, at what point did he realize he needed to add the turbo? I mean, the iron block is a sin but, they do sound good.

I skipped through the vid waiting for it to be driven.  I wish I could get those 30+ seconds of my life back.

So, to cheer everyone up. How about the S85 we just chucked into the M3? Fits like a glove!

245/40-15 on 10" wide wheels on all 4 corners. Not much if any "stretch" going on but, they are not 100% flat sidewalls. I can take a closeup picture later today..

10 minutes ago, irdave said:

 

Oh, you're married to a redhead?  My last wife was a redhead.  I understand.  Kinda' like the s54, lots of fun, but, man.  That's all you. 

haha, no redhead but, she is well versed in Skip barber racing so, driving on the street is very scary for the passenger, lol.

11 minutes ago, irdave said:

Ohlins with sticky summer tires

Ohlins with sticky summer tires doesn't cure crazy

3 minutes ago, markmac said:

Since I don't have a stock crossmember to compare to, I can tell you that the lowest point is about 3.5" below the bottom of the frame rail.  The oil pan is mm's above the bar where it crosses, so as low as you can go +. back as well, so far in fact they had to carve out part of the fire wall for the distributor cap.

 

Thanks, I'll try to get a stock measurement and put that on here for reference. Looks like your motor is almost dead center on the axle center line.

1 hour ago, markmac said:

 Its time to have an 'expert' look over my entire steering system.

Mark,

 Thanks for sharing!  How much lower is your crossmember verses a stock crossmember? I assume your engine was in there as low as it can go?

Dave