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evil02

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Everything posted by evil02

  1. evil02
    As an ASE certified automotive technician, probably heard of BendPak. You probably used many lifts made by them. You probably know they are one of the best Companies out there making lifts who has been making lifts for over 50 years. If your in agreement, then rest easy because.... Wait for it - Quick Jack is made by BendPak. I doubt they make jacks that fail all over the internet. I believe there are more user errors creating these failures than the actual equipment failing. I'm not saying there isn't but, I would trust Bendapk before some random videos on the internet.
  2. evil02
    I see these at auto crosses and rally's. They do work well and I have never seen ay issues. Regarding the Max jack, we have one and they work great but, have their limits. They are handy for sure. Are you a Automotive technician or a technician in some other profession that also works on cars? I mean, a nail technician that paints finger nails probably knows nothing about automotive lifts but, may be able to change the wipers on their car..
  3. evil02
    https://www.quickjack.com/why-quickjack/5-tests-not-safe-for-home/
  4. evil02
    Please share more pictures of your car!! Yeah, 245's in a 15" wheel is as big as you can get without a slick or expensive vintage race tire. The biggest challenge when I was looking at 17' and 18's was trying to keep the overall tire height as small as possible. I tried 18's on there and they fit but the car looked like a 4x4 truck. I can easily fit 275's but, they are slicks or DOT approved race tires. Here is a 18x8.5 CCW wheel. The front fit perfect but damn did it jack the car up.
  5. evil02
    Box flares
  6. evil02
    You may have a problem with 225's, lol.. I run 245's and wish I could fit 275's
  7. evil02
    Agreed. I always feel they use mustang parts because of how they are packaged and you can basically find a mustang part anywhere and they are dirt cheap verses a higher priced corvette part..
  8. evil02
    You are incorrect. Gen 5 Camaro's and C6,C7,C8 Corvette's are metric and run 5 x 120. I know from owning one. I can tell you that the hub bolt pattern is the same so you can back date a newer car with an older 5 x 4.75" pattern. Again because this is what is on my Gen 1 Camaro. Regarding suspensions, More than 3/4's of the aftermarket kit car world and nearly all pro touring subframes and suspension kits use Corvette parts or the exact geometry. Again, I would know because I have a pro touring gen 1 Camaro. The only people that use Mustang stuff are mustang guys. That being said, Detroit Speed is one of the leaders in the pro touring world and their front suspension kits for the mustang uses Corvette geometry. google is your friend. Lots of options out there. It only matters how much time and money you have..
  9. evil02
    I run a Ground Control kit. I like there camber plates the best. They do good work and are well known in the aftermarket world. A good Koni double adjustable kit is all you need. They also made a rear coiler setup for me. You may have to call but, they will make whatever you want. Not sure what the budget is but, there are also better suspension options but, they get pricey. standard kit, call for rear coiler conversion - https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/bmw/products/bmw-e10-68-76-bmw-2002-complete-suspension-system
  10. evil02
    Yup, a motorcycle that you can drive in the rain. Plus, you still have a decent sized trunk to carry stuff.. If you were to go "all in" on this, you would build a tube frame with the proper front/rear suspension/drivetrain and then hang the body work off it. In the long run, it would be the easiest and best way. Either way is a ton of work but, stock front subframe/suspension and rear e30 stuff will work. It will just be a compromise.
  11. evil02
    It would be impossible to use the rear seat with a cage. Once the crossbar and harness bar go in, you basically have a shelf for a back seat, lol.. Grafting in all the e30 sheet metal to end up with e30 suspension is not worth it. If you are doing that much work, you might as well do a tube frame frontend and make a double wishbone suspension. In reality, it would be easier.. You can do a corvette double wishbone suspension and run new Camaro hubs as they are metric wheel bolt pattern which I think it the same as BMW
  12. evil02
    Suspension and steering is a rabbit hole you can chase forever. Personally, I like the e46 front suspension on the 2002 chassis. The strut angles are similar but, the arms are still rear mounted and front steering rack. Doable, just different. It does of course widen your track and there goes your wheels again, lol. For the e46 stuff you will need shortened strut housings. Maybe a Mini cooper strut on e46 upright, who knows.. Brakes are easy with an aftermarket pedal box. Plenty of hotrod places make custom hydro boost setup. I got a custom e30 hydro boost clocked properly to fit the v10 in the e30 chassis and it is still really tight. That being said, the 2002 is tighter. I like that the guy got the motor in there but, I would still push it back further. Don't remove a ton of the firewall, just what you need to keep it strong. Plenty of hotrod places that sell sheetmetal pieces to build tunnels. Check out Chis Alton chassis shop for sheet metal pieces. They are for muscle cars but, work fine in the 2002. I built a tunnel for my 68 Camaro and it would work on my 2002 too, lol.He sells similar ones already done.
  13. evil02
    Medium case guys run a ton of power through them. E30 suspension and rack is cool but strut angle is crazy..
  14. evil02
    We sold the auto box so, I can't help you but, you can probably google it. You may be able to tell if they use different driveshaft part numbers or something. I only mention it becuase the further the motor goes back, the more the shift lever does. You can always extend the steering column, use Tilton pedal box and push the seats further back into the rear footwell area. We do this with a lot of track cars where you can push things back further behind the front axle line. Yes, the steering box sucks for any V configured motor. I have V6 going into my 2002 but, the headers weren't a big deal. They are custom on that side but, not a big deal. One more runner tightens things up, It won't be too fun but, it's not a show stopper. The OEM front subframe can re made to suit your needs. With the exception of the steering bits, the rest is pretty basic. You will need to figure out if the oil pan will be a problem too.
  15. evil02
    This will probably be your best option. I ran box flares and built wheels after I sorted out the rear end and body work. I also used Z3m rear trailing arms. We bought a crashed M5 and used everything we could off it and sold the rest. We didn't make all our money back but enough to make the motor and parts used way cheaper than buying separately. We have a M3 with the S65 here too and the cooling setup was pretty much the same as the M5 so, they definitely want to keep that v8 cool. It's a massive cooling setup. I would notch the firewall and set the motor back as far as possible. If you stay automatic, you can paddle shift and not worry about shift lever location too. Either way, its a big transmission for the 02 tunnel but, not terrible.
  16. evil02
    I have a few thoughts if your interested, lol. If you are doing a cage and you will be doing a good amount of fab work then, I would strongly consider at the minimum installing a e30 rear suspension and at least an e36 rear diff housing. Perhaps look into swapping in a whole different setup out of another brand car. Caution though as this is a slippery slope of wheel bolt patterns, brakes, wheel diameters, track width etc.. it gets crazy fast! I have a full e30 rear suspension and an e36 diff housing. Make sure you can get the gear ratio's needed for your motor/trans, wheel diameter choice. I would really run the factory ecu as it's already tuned. I would only go standalone if you are boosting or if there is some security situation with the ecu being locked or tied into the anti theft system. the factory harness can already run the dash and whatever else. It will be a ton of wiring. The other thing to consider is cooling. The M3 has a huge radiator to cool that motor. The stack of coolers on the front of the car is crazy big and heavy. The PCM fan is huge too. We are putting a S85 into an e30 M3 and getting the fan and a decent sized radiator has been really challenging. You may have to set your motor pretty far back into the firewall.
  17. evil02
    Perfect!!! I'll take 10 please!! ps - that is some serious photo shop skill! great work
  18. evil02
    I'll pay you $50 not to buy one and die. You don't have to drive hard to stress these types of parts. Only takes someone cutting you off and you needing to react to the situation that can still push parts to their limits. fyi - every car I own is faster than my 2002.. hell, most cars on the street in general are faster than my 2002, lol..
  19. evil02
    Welcome to the internet Paul Walker. I'm glad you can make it. I'm going to continue making assumptions and assume you are either the same person as the OP or his best friend. Even though the IE hub is made from 6061, I bet it's flange to bearing strength is the same or slightly less than OP's hub. You maybe able to get away with an inferior material when you engineer the part to the material's strength. Instead of gathering all your friends to write pointless comments, just show the work. Or you can just throw a product out there and hopefully not kill anyone or get sued and lose everything your parents gave you.This is just free advice. Take it or leave it.
  20. evil02
    Correct, the flange is twice as thick, that means next to nothing. Where the bearing housing meets the flange is the area of concern. You can't compare the IE design to these. IE is like stock and this is a new design. The non IE has the brake rotor and wheel mounting on two different sides of the flange. IE has them on the same side. The back side of the IE flange is similar to stock and has a more material and a larger diameter barrel to hold the bearing race. Thats key! As your car switches from left to right and back, that thick flange is going to flex. Can the bearing cylinder take it? Who knows.. 7075 is totally fine for race and street and in this case, way better than 6061. The barrel that holds the bearing is thin. It appears to be as thin as the OEM steel hub. If that is the case then the aluminum barrel will be weaker. I ould be wrong as I have not measured. Again, I hope I am wrong in all of this but, I rather be wrong than someone get hurt. I hope they are great and safe and the OP makes millions. Best of luck to him and everyone who buys them. You just can't say these are great for canyon driving and they are not track tested without a disclaimer or building them strong enough to do both.
  21. evil02
    There is no easy answer but, thickness matters in the right areas, is the only easy way to say it. Computer simulation is one thing and real world testing is another. Destructive testing reveals it all. Computer simulations are great but, you need to know what your testing for and how to apply it. It is not a simple task. Over building is what people tend to do when they are unsure of their design. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. When you sell a product, you better be sure your not going to kill someone. It is easy to say that these are, "for closed course competition" or, these are "race only" or "use at your now risk" parts but, anyone with a good lawyer will own you, especially if someone dies.. I am not saying the design wasn't "tested" or they weren't engineered properly. I am saying, I built a lot of these parts and I question the integrity of these. If the OP says they are perfect and safe, thats on him. I always question parts that can injure someone. They need to prove me wrong. I will gladly eat crow if someone can convince me wrong and they are safe as can be. I hope I am wrong and he brings a great product to the 02' world. It's great to see people still making parts for these cars.
  22. evil02
  23. evil02
    Ok, no worries(for me). I too am a Mechanical engineer (for 30yrs) and I have made many race components, including hubs. Hitting pot holes, curbs, etc. with and during high cornering loads are major factors often overlooked. A FOS of 7 means nothing if its not applied properly. Good luck with your parts. I hope you have a legit business with insurance. Selling a muffler or shiny shift knob is one thing. Selling parts that can fail and injure people are another. Be careful. Edit - May want to run these a while and then crack check them.. We crack test all suspension components at the end of each race season or as needed.
  24. evil02
    Were these actually engineered and at least simulated? No offense but, the mounting surface is not the ares that needs the most strength. The area where the bearing gets pressed into needs the strength. I have made many hubs out of 7075. Many that had way more material in certain areas than yours and they still cracked, I would be very concerned with the barrel area where the bearing presses into and the back of the hub flange. You have a tiny radius there and thats where you will find cracking and or failure. I don't mean to put down your product but, I have seen enough failures to at least warn you. Hopefully you have worked through these areas and don't have any problems. Word to the wise, when hubs fail, bad things happen.
  25. evil02
    Nice, I like your strut setup for sure. A bare hub with no mounted rotor would be great. Have these been run on any track cars with sticky and wide tires yet?
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