evil02

my car is not running yet but, I'm in the west burbs. I haven't been to any events out here. This page is definitely a little slow..

If I send my pigeon, will you send another one back to let me know you got my offer?

On 5/5/2021 at 10:45 AM, Deilke53 said:

Sure, every step always is a good policy.

 

Read a couple interesting forum threads on 4cyl knifing.  I think I'm blaming crank flex from using 8500 as my new normal.

Did you balance the rotating assembly? 

14 hours ago, Deilke53 said:

 he also is a long time 944 conference racer and says that a few years back the 944 crowd was experiencing bearing failures after switching to knifed cranks.

  Knife edge cranks are not the issue with 944's, it's an oiling problem. Most 944's run an accusump or drysump and it 100% solves the problem regardless if the crank is worked or not.

9 hours ago, 2002VT said:

I finally ended up having the tires mounted for test fit. Plus I put the old crappy front fender “on” to test out the front turbo flare. Crude, but effective. 
 

The car looks like a gasser!  ? See you at the strip, kids! 
 

Anyway - everything fits much better than anticipated. No rubbing anywhere. I need to play with the rear and see how much room there is when load is app

 

 

 

 

Looks good!   I would wait until you get your coilovers on before you start cutting, etc..  you also may be able to add a small 5mm spacer or so on the fronts.. you will know more once you get your suspension dialed in.

4 hours ago, Dudeland said:

Ok, so I am curious.  What setup would I need to measure concentricity?

 

I have dials and mag bases, bore gages, mic's etc.. I am scratching my head as to how to set it up.  I have a 5 speed on the floor, so I should be able to measure the concentricity of the M10 portion of the adapter plate.   We are on a stay at home order , so jumping in a car to go and pick up a RX8 transmission is not a great idea right now. 

 

Regards

I'm sure there are a million on youtube but here is a good one - https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/bellhousing-alignment-install-guide/

13 minutes ago, slowpoke said:

As for your FEA you may not be using the right constraints.  You’ve got a fixed support on the bearing surface and i think that would apply if the bearing were infinitely stiff and the hub was welded to the bearing, neither of which are true.  For example, if there is a load into the page on the top and out of the page at the bottom of the hub face, then the face will tilt and the bearing surface will deform like an oval.  That absolutely happens or hubs would never crack.  You could try some runs at those conditions.

 

Also, this is aluminum and therefore can’t be designed for infinite life, so do you have life calcs to know how many cycles these hubs should last before they fatigue fail.  can you convert cycles into miles? 

 

Just some thoughts.  good luck, and we’re all hoping you’re successful.  At least i am.

Very well put.  As for hoping he is successful, I'm sure I don't come across as being nice here but, I genuinely hope he is too. I'm happy to see people making things for the 2002!  No emotion here, just facts.

7 hours ago, BeEmVee2002 said:

Thanks for your comments and concerns. However, it seems that at this moment in time, there are a few members on this forum who have spread false information about me personally, my experience as an Engineer, and the product that I have developed and am now offering to this wonderful community. It appears certain individuals are affiliated with other well-known suppliers in the 2002 community and do not wish to divulge any information as to who they are and what their conflict of interest may be. These scare tactics are cute but I’m sure that many readers on here with any sense of technical know-how have been able to filter through the b.s. and recognize the many times in which these individuals have contradicted themselves. Also, comments attacking me personally or claiming that my parents have given me anything are baseless and downright childish. While some of us are at work earning a living, it has been obvious which individuals throughout this thread have had the time to make baseless posts and even have the time to go back and edit those posts. If those individuals have tried and failed in their own endeavors, I cannot speak for them. What I can say though, is that my silence is my way of remaining busy to filter out all the noise caused by these individuals. For any people truly interested in our product we have already shared our FEA results on other social media platforms.  

 I'm not sure where any of these false information posts are or any personal attacks or scare tactics are but, I would say you made more mention to that then sharing your engineering skills. Also, I haven't seen anyone on here that is affiliated with "well-known" suppliers but then again, I don't know all the members here personally so, you could be right.

 That being said, I will and have been speaking for myself. I have no business interest here. I do not sell BMW parts and I have no desire to.  I am speaking from 100% experience. I have personally designed and made 4 different hubs for cars that were ranged from 2200lbs to 3800lbs, have 4x to 6x times the HP of a 2002 and have many hours on tracks all around the US.

 I think you are having a hard time separating emotion from engineering. I have no problem with the you and or your business. I am only questioning the strength of your hub design and at the time you would not offer proof. It is not my job to hunt down information on YOUR product. It is up to you to provide this information. It seems you had and I am glad you posted it. I would say that if what you posted is all the testing you did, I would still be concerned with your design. This is for free - The the faces you selected to be fixed and the apply forces to do NOT tell the whole story. I mean, maybe if it was in a vertical bearing press and you were trying to press out the center section but.. Good luck with your business and please be careful.   

5 hours ago, slowpoke said:

Cyrus,

 

I'm with irdave on this one.  In fields where rigorous engineering is required there's LOTS of design reviews.  And the reviews focus on risk, forces, factors of safety, life time, etc. etc. etc...  The BEST engineers are very willing to put all their calculations, testing up for review and peer evaluation.  They know a review is a critique of the design and not a critique of their own engineering capability, experience, etc.  It is merely that, a critique choices and analysis that led to a specific design.  Remember, all design is inherently a series of compromises around a set of constraints ideally optimizing along one vector...  a review of the constraints, compromises and your optimization vector is always worthwhile, especially if its done by a knowledge peer group.  it appears that this forum has a number of knowledge folks that can (and have) been critiquing your design.  I urge you to thank them for the effort they've applied.   Their comments seem valid.  Their goal isn't to crush your new business endeavors but rather help you deliver great products and for the community have a richer set choices when it comes to building up their cars.  Sharing your work, as it were, can: show folks the rigor you have applied, stimulate conversation, drive out potential failure modes, improve designs, and at the very least build trust and confidence in your ability as a designer / fabricator in the community you wish to foster as customers.

 

I, also, have some questions about your design, and would really like to understand the load cases you've considered and the calcs and FEA you've completed.  at the very least you'll be able to show off all your engineering muscles.  i'm confident there's people in this group that will "get" the math.  

 

thanks again for all the work you've already put into this and for helping grow the 2002 community!  

 

 

Unfortunately, the OP won't discuss or show his work rather, he has his alter ego "tuna no crust" come on here and say it's fine. The lack of response should be raising a red flag and speaks volumes. In 20+ years, I have never met an engineer that doesn't want to discuss their design. This reminds me of my 1st and 2nd year interns that know it all yet have zero experience to back it up.  I hope the two of you have a large insurance policy. God forbid someone has an accident because the disclaimer on your website is amateur at best for a seasoned lawyer. Good luck.. I

12 hours ago, irdave said:

 Perfect, flares, happy trees. It's all coming together! Moderators might as well close the thread. This car is done!

12 hours ago, irdave said:

 

totally clicked on it to see the photoshop!

Sorry, I didn't have time to photoshop. I was at work and supposed to be working, lol.

2 hours ago, Lorin said:

Lots of great discussion here but this thread is short on pictures !!

What about a painting?

3 hours ago, 2002VT said:

From now on anyone who posts off topic within this thread owes me $1.00 towards my project.  DM for PayPal info.  LMAO!

 

Did anyone see my post from page 8 which speaks to the e30 rear end?  Any input?  

 Anybody into wood working?

E30 rear end = good!   Do it!!!  Get some custom Level 5 axles made from the Drive Shaft shop and your golden! I think they are good for 1200hp so, you should be fine

4 hours ago, gary32 said:

Dave forgot about your sub frame conversion.

You might like these, 15x10 5x120 et0. 5x120.65 fits and allows you to use wheels for many domestics.  

Vision 531-5161B0 American Muscle 531 Street Lite Wheel, 15X10.pdf 311.82 kB · 0 downloads

2002VT I think you owe the contributors a buck but keep mine you will need it it more than I do.

I do not use an e30 diff...

Gary,  The new Gen 5 Camaro and Corvettes( I think C6, C7, C8) are all metric. They are 120mm x 5 so, you can find muscle car centers or full wheel there too. The problem is all the cars have decent sized rotors so, 17's or 18's+ may be all you can find.

3 hours ago, irdave said:

 

Center lock?  Ooooooo......

 

I think the 15x10 are 21 lbs each... 

lol, I could go center lock but, they will drill bolt patterns too. I may do 5x120 though and make my life easier for future upgrades.

35 minutes ago, irdave said:

 

I'm on 16x8 ET20 right now.  To go 15", I need some spacer, pro'ly 20mm worth, checking later today, so I need 5.5" of back spacing.  Only thing I can get is 10" wide for the sexy steelies.  I just barely don't rub when turning in the front with what I have now.  I think my suspension is 3/4 or 1" wider on either side.  And some little bolt ons would be way easier than big fiberglass.    245's would be plenty I think- it's just a stock s14.  (I'm trying some 16x7 Kosei's today, too.  So much lighter than the Revo RFX...)

  Yup, my 10" steel wheels were as wide as they made and they are also heavy. I never weighed them but, I wasn't impressed when i first mounted the tires and lifted them up.  You should be fine. 181ftlbs isn't going to melt 245's like a turbo or large displacement motor. It will be just enough to have a lot of fun!

 Light wheels are good I'm going to spend the money and get some BBS E50's made. I drew some in Solidworks but, even machining them is pricey..

1 hour ago, irdave said:

 

Think 4 or 5 inch flares would be too much?  The box flares I bought aren't going to cut it.  

I don't know about your setup but, I already run 10 wheels and 245's. I can easily fit 12's. I can get another 1/2" outward and easily 2" inboard. I would love 275 square but, the fronts are a challenge. I run 10's with 245's already and I have pretty much no room. I have to revisit this.  

14 hours ago, irdave said:

Trevor and Wyatt at MCS are great to deal with; and they have a fair bit of knowledge about the 2002 struts.

 

And apparently there's a 275/35-15 out there?  Ten inch Aero steelies what?

There is a 275/35-15, 200 treadwear rated tire coming out but, not until this winter or 2022 spring. This is going to be a great option!!  There are already 275/35-15's in a DOT approved, 100 treadwear and also a full slick.

13 hours ago, 2002VT said:

 I’ll have to pass on coilover rears, though. The shocks will be traditional with the springs (adjustable) on the trailing arms.

Any reason why you are not going coilover?  Of course its your decision, just wondering

6 hours ago, Ian said:

I think the other thing we (the non-S65 community) need to keep in mind is this car should have a lot more power than we are used to, and will be able to turn big wheels.  On a "regular" performance -oriented 2002, I suspect 205/50-15 or 225/45-15 is plenty of tire, and big heavy wheels can actually hurt performance.  But with this much hp you could need more braking, and wider tires would give a better contact patch for braking.  That being said, if you aren't going to track this beast, it won't really matter and you can run anything you want!

   It is a complicated problem only because of the current tire sizes. You can't seem to find wide tires in a small diameter and when you go to a large diameter to open your tire choices, the tire diameters get huge and then the ride height is out of control.

 That being said, a real wide front tire in any diameter will hit the body too so, not that you need more to worry about but, there you go, lol.. 

15 minutes ago, 2002VT said:

  The fronts did hit the shock when test fit (when I had the suspension in the car) and the rears were fine.

  Even with coil overs and a smaller spring, things get tight. You can always fine tune it with a small spacer.

 I hate spacers but a nice spacer with a built in concentric ring is ok. I would not go over a 1/4". You can but, I just saying that I don't like too on track cars. I run 1" spacers on my daily driven SUV(which is fast and thrashed on all the time) and they work fine.

  Here is a 16 x 8, 3pc wheel with a 245 on the rear. I was going 16's all around but, found tire selection to be better for me with the 15. note the stock 13" wheel on the front! (no brake rotor,lol)

3 hours ago, irdave said:

Even with 16's I feel like they're holding my car up pretty high. 

Thinking about steel wheels.  Like Basset or Aero.  Recommendations?  Thoughts?  (5x120 (4.75?), 16x8, 5.5" backspacing)

 Yup, 16's were jacking my car up so, I settled on 15's and found you can still get a tire somewhat close to the original tire height. 

 I run 15x10" wheels on all four corners. but, can easily fit 12" wheels on the back. I believe I run 4.5" BS on the front and 5.5" on the rear. I would need to double check that as it's been a while and I can't remember like I use too, lol..  I use an e30 sub-frame and z3m trailing arms so, its a wider track for sure. Fitment isn't 100%. I would like to build 3pc wheels to get it exact. These steel wheels were just cheap'ish place holders that I can run in a pinch. Just an FYI, most steel wheel makers run a larger hub ring so, you will need a concentric ring for the hub. They are pretty cheap and common sizes.

 FYI -  My brakes are Wilwood Forged Superlite Calipers and 11.75x1.25" rotors(298.45mmx 31.75mm) on Tii struts and Massive Brakes caliper adapter. It is aggressive and rim/tire is very close to the springs(ground control coilovers).

10 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Fist off there safety video only tested the QuickJack in the upright locked position, most of the issues I've read and seen videos about happened while raising or lowering the vehicle.

 

Second taken directly from the QuickJack manual: As an added precaution, you must always use auxiliary safety stands under the Vehicle while elevated on both QuickJack Frames. This totally defeats the purpose of a lift. If they don't have confidence in the locks then why should I? They never show any jack stands in their video.

   Have you ever heard of the term "best practices"?   Best practices means - commercial or professional procedures that are accepted or prescribed as being correct or most effective.

 Any and every GOOD manufacture follows "best practices" to ensure the consumer is safe while using their product.  It is up to the consumer to follow it or not. 

 Since you are a mechanic, you know you should check your oil. Does BMW tell you you should, yes. Do people check their oil?  I bet 80%+ don't. They just change the oil when they are told by an idiot light on the dash. They have no idea if the motor is about to blow or not.

 You are discrediting a product because they are asking you to be extra safe and then you tell me you spent time making sure you 2002 was as safe as possible. Why did you bother? Doesn't the crash structure defeat the purpose of the seat belts?

11 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Nothing bad to say about max jacks it's a nice set up if you have the room but it's only semi portable compared to the quick jack, the max jack must be bolted to the floor and the columns weigh a couple of hundred pounds each where the quick jack just needs a level paved spot, so it's kinda like comparing apples to oranges.

Agreed. My max jack is really heavy and once you bolt it down, which takes a bit, you never want to move it. I got it thinking I would move it around. In 7 years, I moved it once. I should have just got a full size lift.