abrokenframe

The following have been sold:

Rear panels

Door handles and steering column

Pedal box

Turn signal stalk

23 hours ago, Whaledriver said:

95% complete? What 5% is missing to perform and immediate install? Would you accept $300 for the pictured rebuilt pedal box? Ready to buy now.  Thanks,

There's still a couple of adjustments that need to be done. It also still needs C clips for the brake rod on both ends, a nut on the top of the brake rod, and a bolt for the throttle arm. I rebuilt this myself and since I'm not a professional rebuilder, I'm selling it as is. 

$300 is too low though. Professional powder coating, zinc plating, and new parts aren't cheap.

15 hours ago, Dudeland said:

What are you asking for the tan seats?
 

$200

8 hours ago, motormike5 said:

Is the highbeam stalk for a '72?
Mike

Yup. Came off of a '71

14 minutes ago, calicolorado said:

I'm interested in the turn signal stalk if it's still available.

I still have it. 

-Ryan

8 hours ago, Infmr2 said:

Still have the backseat panels? Are they black?

Yes I do. They are black.

-RYan

2 hours ago, 74OH2 said:

Is the rear brace/battery relocation still available?

Yes it is. Only selling that piece locally.

-Ryan

Rear seat sold, front bumper piece sold

3 hours ago, MKINNA said:

Just checking if steering column and door handles sold


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Still pending.

It's my fault. I get pretty busy throughout the week with work, so I'm a little slow. Sorry everybody...I'll get to every inquiry.

Thanks,

Ryan

11 minutes ago, LimeySteve said:

Hi Ryan , how is the back seat ? horsehair stuffing or foam ? &  is it black ?

 

Limey Steve

pm'd

7 hours ago, motormike5 said:

Pedal box still available?

Yup, still available.

6 hours ago, MKINNA said:

Also interested in steering column and door handles if available, I’m local. Just in case previous replies back out


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You are second in line!

Just a reminder to everyone. I'm only selling locally for the time being.

Thanks,

Ryan

Bump. Lots of new stuff added

I'll take that first one.

-Ryan

2 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

Ryan, do you have any idle jet inventory? You might want to try some 55 or 60F9 jets.

I wish! This is my first DCOE. Moving to an F9 was my first idea before getting tangled up with progression hole research. I'll order some up right now. Any recommendations for other jets that I can add to the order?

-Ryan 

9 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

Ryan, which idle jets are you using?

Missed that one! 60F8

4 hours ago, zinz said:

What is your igintion timing at 1000 rpm and 1500 rpm?

With my IE distributor:

1,000- 14

1,500- 16

2,000- 22

3,000- 32

2 hours ago, Chris_B said:

Ryan, you should measure your fuel level from the top of the carb in the main jet well. Trying to get the right level (~25MM from the top deck) is very difficult to achieve by adjusting floats. What size idle jets are you running? Sounds like you are drowning the idle circuit.

Fuel level is at 25mm. Didn't realize it was that easy! Very difficult to set idle above 12.4 AFR. 

-Ryan

I tried opening up the throttle to where I can see the beginning of the plate when looking through the first progression hole and leaned out my idle. Bleeders closed. I can get it around 1100rpm. This made light throttle even more lean with lots of popping and stumbling. The car was barely drivable. Confusing to me and goes against my logic.

The best overall setting from the numerous I've tried seems to be throttle almost closed (not covering the progression hole at all), bleeders slightly open, and a verrry rich idle (11.5-12). Light throttle is then bearable. Still have to rev it up more than I should when engaging the clutch to compensate for it leaning out. This setting is still far from ideal and hasn't solved any of my problems. I'll check my float level when my gasket set comes in.

My hood hinges have definitely been getting a workout the last two weeks! I'll shoot a little video of my AFR gauge to give some visual backup. 

Thanks for the input everyone. 

-Ryan

37 minutes ago, Harv said:

Ha! Me too!

 

john

Funny! you know what my third car is? A '91 e30 325i coupe. Love that car!

31 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

Have you checked to make sure the air bypass screws are closed? You may want to try lining up the throttle plates and leaning out the idle mixture to drop the idle speed. 11.5-12 is pretty fat.

I only barely open the bypass screw on one barrel to sync the air flow @ idle. Moving the throttle plates to cover the first progression hole lets way too much air by hence the 2k+ idle to get a decent AFR. I'll give it another shot though!

-Ryan 

10 hours ago, Chris_B said:

You are right about the lean stumble. That is why the throttle plate needs to be lined up with the first progression hole. Does your carb have air bypass screws?

Yes, it has air bypass screws. 

10 hours ago, bitbckt said:

Off topic, but close to my heart: stop putting Webers on your 912s!

 

Back to your regularly scheduled program.

Don't look at me! The PO put them on about 35 years ago. I'd love to have a pair of p40ll's on there. Just haven't spent the time to find a decent pair of carbs, air filters, throttle linkage, and 912 fuel lines. It's the '02's fault! 

Thanks for the help everyone! I'll just hook it up. Seems like the safer bet for another half hour of work.

-Ryan

8 hours ago, Chris_B said:

12.5AFR is fat for everywhere except WOT. If you want reasonable fuel mileage, you should be aspiring to high 13s/low 14s above 2K RPMs at every steady speed (not under a load, like up an incline). above idle.

 

On the idle/flat spot issue, have you lined up  your throttle plates with the first progression hole yet?

Thanks for the help. I am admittedly a novice when it comes to tuning, so this is helpful (only tuned my 912 Webers and old '02 Solex).

Lining up the the throttle plate with the first progression hole opens the throttle and lets way too much air by the plates, so the car idles at 2K+. Weber tuning guides say to have the throttle completely closed and above the first progression hole, so there's definitely a disconnect there.

From what I've read, this is the main reason for adding an additional progression hole directly above the throttle plate and probably the reason why Weber started manufacturing the 45 152G (adds a fourth hole). Currently, I think the stumble occurs between throttle initially opening and passing the first hole which is .5mm away from closed throttle. I could be way off, but it makes sense to me!

-Ryan

38 minutes ago, Chris_B said:

You don't need to add progression holes. You are already getting too much fuel in every range except for the "dreaded" lean spot. At what RPMs does the motor idle? Have you checked your fuel level?

I have tried setting idle at a few different speeds, but it seems the happiest at around 1,000RPM. Haven’t checked my float or fuel pressure yet, but it’s on the “to do” list.

 I know I’m running rich at idle, but thought around 12.5afr was acceptable for cruising speeds, no? It’s only in the 11’s when I’m going over 75mph.

One of the problems I’m having at all speeds is if I lift off of throttle, then open again, I get a stumble and it goes lean. The only way I have been able to combat this with my current jetting is by overcompensating with a rich idle. If I set the idle to around 13-14 AFR, the stumbling when opening the throttle gets a lot worse. In this scenario, wouldn’t putting a fourth progression hole directly above the butterflies allow me to run a leaner idle since it would be dumping more fuel in at partial throttle?

-Ryan

I’m considering switching from a sidedraft setup back to a 38/38 using a stock intake. Since I’ve already done the work to bypass the intake cooling, will I run into problems if I just throw the stock intake on there without going through the motions of reverting my cooling system? If so, why doesn’t a sidedraft require cooling?

Thanks for the insight!

-Ryan

I know you are going dual webers, but I’m sure someone will stumble upon this thread when trying to find info on the lynx setup, so I thought I’d chime in. First off, here’s some specs on my carb:

-Weber DCOE 45 152

-Main Venturi:  36

-Aux Venturi: 4.5

-Main Jet: 145

-Em Tube: F16

-Air corrector: 155

-Idle jet: 60F8

-Pump Jet: 45

-Pump Exh: 40

-Needle V: 2.00

Except for the larger idle jet that the PO put in, this carb is setup how it comes out of the box. Here’s some of the problems that I’m trying to sort out:

-Shaky/high idle

-Stumbling on partial throttle

-Poor fuel economy of 12-15mpg

-Car stalls on deceleration from high speeds and randomly at idle

I picked up a AEM AFR Uego gauge and installed it last night to help understand what’s going on with the carb. Here’s what I’m seeing so far:

-Idle: 11.5-12

-Light throttle shoots up to 15/17 for half a second then drops

-WOT up to 4Krpm: 11-12.5

-Cruising at all speeds: 11.5-13.5

I’m still in my engine’s first 500 miles, so I’m not revving it up past 4k for the time being, so no readings there. So what solutions am I considering?

First off, I called Metric Mechanic since they built my engine to get their opinion. They didn’t have much experience with the single Lynx setup, pointed to a couple of issues that they think come along with the Lynx and basically recommended trying out the 38/38 I have sitting on my shelf. This is something I am heavily considering given the mountain of time/money I am about to put into this carb. THEN I called Top End Performance since they sold the Lynx to the PO. I told them my jetting and they said that was pretty close to where they would start and make small adjustments on a car to car basis. They said stick with 36MM venturis. So do I fix the DCOE or move over to the 38?

When considering the DCOE. My first thought is jetting to fix the progression circuit. But after doing some research, my car seems to be suffering from the same problems that a number of others have had with 152’s and I think the main culprit is the progression holes. This Alfa thread has a good write-up and mirrors my symptoms: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/carburetors-fuel-injection-air-intake/32856-weber-dcoe45-152-45dcoe-progression-circuit-modification.html

If I stick with the DCOE, It makes sense for me to investigate this before jetting since it will affect my jetting anyway. If I do need a 4^th progression hole, this requires removing the carb and bringing to the local machine shop to drill the holes. I might as well rebuild the whole damn carb if I do that since it’s already coming of the car. THEN put it back on and potentially tackle the jetting, which could get pricey in its own right.

I’m heavily considering the 38/38. I bought the carb off of a local racer’s ’02, so I’m sure it’s in good working order. Not as sexy, but seems so much more reliable and easy at this point.

-Ryan

3 hours ago, inquisitive said:

The towel has been thrown in and Steve Dinan is working on the car :). Already working on convicing me to go dual 45's! 

 

We'll see.

Don't give up! I just started up this Metric Mechanics motor with a single 45dcoe Lynx two weekends ago and am having a hell of a time getting it to a smooth idle. I came here searching for the same thing you are. I'll take some videos of how my car is running and start looking into jets, venturis, etc. so you have a comparison. Overall, I'd say the M10 feels pretty good. A little stutter @ around 2K RPM in lower gears, and can't get a smooth idle... Only two problems I'm trying to fix. I know my idle jets are off because they require 3 full turns out before it's even drivable.

-Ryan