tzei

 Also, I belive hitting the brakes wouldn't stop the noise if it was the bearing?

Actually yes it does. Takes some of the excess play off hence no noise.

Could it be the wheel bearing?

What is the dome's height? I recall that Mahle and KS made bigger than oem o/s pistons. Old Jaymic cataloques did have nice piston sheets. There should be manufacture markings behind the skirt.

My BBS's got so heavy layer of clear coat that it craced after a week or so - bummer.

As a side note... bigger issue rose when i tracked the car. Paint/ c.coat melted from between hub and rim and caused my front wheels to become very loose! Managed back to baddocks safely.

Next time i know better.

And we call them ankle loops - go figure. grab handles = scare handles.

I leave those parts inplace. Take the main oil duct plug away from the flywheel side too! You'll need to wash all oil holes after machine shop has finished - just to be sure that they are totally clean of all debris etc.

Here is one:

http://www.martelius.com/verkkokauppa/index.php?module=ekauppa&type=6

One should allways machine adjacent timing cover torqued in place (head + upper & block + lower cover). I have to remind myself of this each time i rush to machine shop...

I think they could have come up with inner fender/wheel wells that did not hold so much dirt.  

 

Someone needs to come up with a set of plastic clip in liners and put them up for sale.

 

 There was aftermarket ones available and might stiil be. Made of Al sheet with rubber seals around. They're very useful. They were made under "Lokari" brand.

http://www.lokari.fi/?s=t_sisalokasuojat&l=eng

http://www.02forum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3269

http://www.lokari.eu/epages/62716287.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62716287/Categories/%22INNENKOTFL%C3%9CGEL%22/Artikelsuche_Bestellung/BMW

That sounds like a good route. Can you post a few pictures?

I assume the odometer works? How did you mount it in the cluster?

Yes the odometer works. It is a very tight fit but goes just barey to orginal place. Rear steel bracket need "some" redoing. Also larger openings for digits (more of them) makes the backgound quite full but it's manageable. I try to get pics. i'll have to make better backgound anyways and i can't find my earlier scans so it's back to squre one just right there...

I went route #2. E30 speedometer and sender. Trigger wheel made out of magnetic rost free steel bolts between diff flange and cvj. Bracket for sender bolted on diff housing. E30 gauge is cut to fit 02 cluster and trip button functions in its orginal position. Scanned oem background and using Gimp software made new oem style background.

What era? (Silver button, all black, white cross). 180, 200, 220 240 km/h?

Tzei we are running about the same spring pressures with the http://www.excessiveracing.com/PAC-1233.aspx I did have to make up spring cups and retainers I think it may be worth it. I should mention I am running Delwest  titanium valves they are about 2/3 the weight of a stainless valve.

John

I'm using oem valves but lighter valves might be the next step to reduce masses... lovely cheap!

Back in a day when i had Tii engined cars i by passed whole cold start relay unit and wired c/s injector to be operated via push button in cabin. Some morse coding and off we went each time.

Thanks tzei, do you remember what the Spring pressures were set at?  or what the Scat spring part number was?

Seat pressure was 78kg, dunno p/n.

John: massive diet on those KM r.arms. How much is the weight? I have a set under work also but didn't dare to take that much off of them. My version is now at 123 g.

_{Thanks. Yes Rack & pinion... E21 fast steering + E21 front member slightly modified. Managed to buy it back after i sold my E21 race car.  Yes block is my "garage camo".}

HI Fred and Thank You. TBs are custom made using Dellorto's 40 mm repair set for moving parts. Jenvey Plenium. Yes, cam sensor in upper cover. I'll try to find/get pics of those suspension parts...

^{Spin ones has served me well. Oem (Mahle), Fram, Mann. MH. No issues so far.}

I have Haynes and it's rather good. It will take you a long way. Chilton #8789 might be worth of intrest despite its year range ('70 - '88).

tzei, What cam were you running? Were you using the Schrick Valve springs and retainers also? Did the valve hit the piston? 

Hi Jeff. My cam is custom grind from Schrick 304. V.springs were Scat at that time - yes i went grazy with pressures but again nothing that hadn't been done before. Ti retainers (non Schrick). Valves didn't kiss pistons. I might have been a tad over 8k rpm mark but my rev limiter was set at 8.5k rpm and there i didn't visit. Anyway i thought that these r.arms should have taken this abuse with smile.

Regardless of gasket type i started to use silicone with it. Never leaks.

Does anyone have any first hand experience with the Schrick Rocker arms in a racing engine running 7500-8000 RPM?  

I do. As Tommy referred earlier... i broke two of them. Schrick said they're fine but there is quite a little metal around adjustment bolt! Maybe i had too aggressive cam but really nothing that fancy that hadn't been tried elsewhere.

AEM unit here too. No complains.

Scissor jack works for me just fine.

Set of spark plugs and tools to change them. -/+ screwdriver. 10, 12, 13, 17, 19 mm wrences. Set of windshield wiper plades. Roll of iron wire & few zip ties and cutters. Fuel pump relay. Fuses. Electric tape. Spare tire & necessary tools to chage it.

I think thats about it.

And tow-home - insurance