Doug Riparetti

Try replacing the headlight switch

Thanks Simon     

Summit Racing

Had to install a new bung on the back of the head.

He's owned a machine shop dating back to 1993, he is a certified machinist. 

Ireland or my brother John?   

"Riparetti Cylinder Head Service" Kuna, Idaho. 

John Riparetti

831-682-2257 . 

2 hours ago, bento said:

Nice looking 02! Needs boost. 

 

What changes did you make to gain over 32hp?  Timing, jets......?

EC///FEST in San Luis Obispo this past Saturday 

@TobyB.   My Brother is the machinist, not me, and yes, his work is impressive.

For my build, we did use ARP studs for the crank and head along with a Cometic head gasket.....

Mine is 20-gallons, it’s over to the right to allow a little more room to run the exhaust, it exist to the left of the fuel cell.  

I also recessed the factory sending unit so my gas gauge works.

I like the 1974 through 1976 extra structural support in the trunk area, made it a real easy mod to perform..... (mine is a 1975)

39 minutes ago, Lorin said:

 

Since you are that committed, I hope you preformed all the machining at full operating temperature.  

You have to, it gets cold in Idaho. Heated, insulated shop......

I would NEVER have a block bored unless a torque plate was used, whether it's a street car, or a race car.....

When my Brother built my S14, we bought a torque plate, it also helps that my he owns a automotive machine shop......   

The motor is a 1978 Chevy V6, with a Turbo 350. The motor was built for only two years, 1978-1979, it came in El Camino’s and Malibu’s. It looks like a small block Chevy, minus two cylinders, perfect size motor for the ole “Sh*t-box”.....

Circled in red is the shifter, the air cleaner cover is a headlight bucket from a 39 Ford, the grill is from a 26 Durant, frame is Model A with buggy springs, no shocks or knee actions, just the buggy springs. Rear end is from a 1949 Ford Crestline, 4.10 final gear ratio, The body is a 1926 Dodge Phaeton with the back half removed. You can see the door jams from the back section.....

The interior has not changed since the day I got the car, just a couple pieces of foam from Beverley’s Fabric.

The last photo is of the bullet holes on inside of the door, I guess it was used as target practice. 

I’ve only named one car in my life time, it’s the ole “Sh*t-box”, given in rememberence of my late Father. 

The “Sh*t-box” was a gift from my Mom and Brother back in September of 2010. A total surprise gift, I had NO idea about this car.

When my Brother was showing the car to me, with tears in my eyes, I said to him, “John, would you be offended if I called it the “Sh*t-box” cuz if Dad saw it, that’s what he would say". We laughed, and that’s how it got the name.

It’s well known around the Monterey Peninsula as the “Sh*t-box”, and yes, that's an approved plate from DMV. It reads 26 Short Box in DMV's eyes...

1 hour ago, avoirdupois said:

 

Your numbers seem more than acceptable but there are several things you do not mention.

 

2,200 miles since the rebuild.  Is there any question about the engine not having been broken in fully? 

 

What type and viscosity oil are you using and how much oil are you consuming?  Last oil change?

 

Do your spark plugs evidence signs of oil burning?  Notable tail pipe residue? 

 

While your symptoms do not immediately point to ring issues, cylinder wall issues, piston ring land issues have you examined the valve cover vent tube for excessive blow by?  (Not familiar with your intake system, but assuming the tube vents toward the mouth of the carburetor, is it wet or dry?

 

You are running an automatic.  Trans fluid dripping on a hot exhaust may tend to create smoke.  If the system is overfilled and the o-ring on that dip stick tube is compromised, leaks may occur .  .  .   Also, fittings for oil lines to the radiator, and the lines themselves, if your auto is so equipped, can shed a few unwanted drops on a hot exhaust..  Not saying this is your problem, but just something to consider.

The product that you are speaking of is “Bon Ami”

Did you use a "Torque Plate" when boring the block?

6 hours ago, Whaledriver said:

That is a great price! Cost me more than that for just one seat (drivers) in Utah.

I had my seats done back in 2014 for $600. I also had him install the carpet kit that I got from "Only 02", that was another $400

For the front sway bar, put the links in the front holes. For the rear bar, from the back of the sway bar to the back of the clamp, 2-1/2"

On 3/6/2018 at 10:10 AM, ray_ said:

 

 

How are the AFRs?

 

Cheers,

 13.6 

Put my car on the chassis dyno yesterday,  between 240-250 hp to the crank, a  little over 209 hp to the rear wheels. 

94 Honda Civic. I have one in my car.

(Round 1) 36mm Mikuni round slide motorcycle carbs 

(Round 2) 44mm Mikuni round slide motorcycle carbs

Why don't you address the misalignment issue 1st, that's what is causing your failure. An use the factory BMW Guibo, not the cheap aftermarket ones.