stargazer

Thanks!

Any idea what the size of these are? Best source? Incredibly, I don't have any.

So, I've got the Top End Performance rear strut brace/battery relocate kit. There's not a lot of vertical room for the battery, a cheap one I had is almost an inch to tall. What's everyone going with 'back here' ? Thanks, Jeff

Wife drove up curb, on to median... aside from a couple of blown out tires, didn't look too bad, until I realized the windshield had a small stress crack and looked under the hood, decided I'd better make a claim, have shop do an estimate. Got word back... totaled! $12,000 in damage. Car was recently published in Bav Auto catalog. Mushroomed shock tower, displaced fender, bent strut brace were early indications of serious problem, but had no idea it would be just tip of the iceberg. On the bright side, this gives me an opportunity to upgrade to an M roadster.

15x8 XXR's 0 offset

One other question... is there a trick/order to bleeding these dual circuit calipers? with three nipples on each caliper.

Several months of busy work keeping me from the garage, I finally got the car running. It was nothing really... fouled the plugs up so bad from all the starting attempts in the winter (have to learn how to cold start it some day). After putting a new set of plugs in, it started right up after a couple of attempts. The brakes are still a problem (mushy from the time I took delivery). It has the Ireland Engineering 'big brake' kit... but the rotors are in pretty ugly shape, pads wearing down. I think one of the calipers has a leak. I tried bleeding the brakes and stiffened them up a bit, but I think the front driver side caliper might be leaking a tiny bit. I'm wondering if it would be easiest to just order another new 'big brake' kit. What caliper re-build kit would I even order for those IE calipers? Are they identical to the tii's ? I guess I will call IE and ask. Now, just by virtue of my having the 4 pistons in the calipers, would that not imply that I've got a tii booster in this car? It does have a 'dual circuit'. Sorry, I don't know how to distinguish the stock non-tii brake system from that of the tii (or maybe this is some hybrid). The timing SOUNDS like it's off. I suppose I'll invest in a timing light and see what I can glean there. The engine generally sounds pretty good, I imagine a compression test is probably something I should be doing as well. The car supposedly has a Schrick 292 degree cam. Is there anyway I can verify this? How does one differentiate cams? The 4-speed transmission whines a bit when it's coasting. Is that indicative of wear that can only be corrected with a re-build? Or can the situation improve at all with a fluid change? Perhaps some minor maintenance? Otherwise, I guess I'll just put up with it until I can consider the popular 5-speed swap. I'm talking with a body shop in town to possibly perform a frame rail patch using angle iron, which I saw demonstrated in a thread here. Have no experience tack welding. Otherwise, so far I love my old 2002... sorry to ramble. A few photos

Finally got back to this.. .discovered I could disconnect the sway bar... and the control arm drops enough, I was able to get the spring out... re-seated. Is this unusual? It is a shorter H&R spring. I discovered this before jumping into pulling off the tie rod/ball joint/etc. So hopefully I've saved some work. After I bleed the brakes (waiting for a nifty brake bleeder kit).. I'll be back to focusing on getting it to start up. I'm hoping the warmer weather helps the situation a little. Spring is almost here.

Just finding some time this weekend... spent time getting my sprung spring re-seated. Will be getting back to the starting issue... hoping warmer weather will help the situation possibly as well.

Actually there is no socket for these spline lugs apparently... but as luck would have it... I found an entirely new set of splined lug nuts which matched it. So, $32 dropped to get the lugs off. So, I'm figuring out that getting the unseated coil spring back on is going to be a first pretty decent challenge for novice me. As silly as it sounds, my first obstacle was the caliper bolts. I guess I need to supplement my hex keys with hex sockets... which I can apply a bit more torque to. They are on there good. I did pull out the pads to reveal 4 piston calipers. Still have yet to figure out if I have a Tii brake master cylinder to power these things. As soon as I get to the store and get the proper tools to get these hex bolts off, and assuming I get past pulling the hub... I guess the next big obstacle may be the end link. Reading around... it sounds like this might be a bear to separate (all to get the coil back on which became unseated while jacking the car up high... oh brother... is that unusual?? I definitely won't be taking this thing out rally crossing).

Actually, I discovered on Wikipedia what you probably all know here... my 259 prefix VIN suggests this was not a Tii (another claim by the previous owner)... I guess I'll need to ID the brake master cylinder. Newbie mistake... 'locking' lug(s) are merely spline drive lug nuts. I guess I just need to find the right socket. Finally, the spring looks serious enough... I guess I'll probably want to get a pair of spring compressors. So, get socket to get lugs off, remove wheel, assess spring situation, hopefully re-seat uneventfully, then get back to starting the car... possibly getting replacement starter.

This one? http://www.amazon.com/BMW-02-Restoration-Guide-Brooklyns/dp/1855204517 Thanks, I'll get it... anyone have recommendations on Weber carb books? Also, in theory this was purportedly a Tii model, according to the previous owner, but nothing would shock me at this point. I'm reading perhaps that the brake master cylinder on the Tii's may suffice for that 4 piston IE brake kit. That said, the brakes seem to be the next 'weak link' I need to investigate. That would certainly explain it (if it's NOT a Tii). Is there a VIN interpreter somewhere which could verify what I have? or maybe simply investigating the brake master cylinder might provide the answer.

So you guys will probably get a kick out of this... things are starting out as I would have imagined, in keystone cop fashion. In the course of looking for the starter, I guess I decided to jack the car up to get a look for it underneath (all my experience came from starters under the transmission bell housing I guess). Anyway, after I jacked it up... looked around, I eventually ended up looking at the old Haynes manual the previous owner sent, and found it... up top. Looks like it should be pretty easy to swap that thing out once I get my hands on a new one. This is just the start of the story though... the keystone cop part is still coming. So, I lower the car. Thought I'd do some more attempts starting it up. I take a seat behind the wheel, and BAM!... it feels like the whole driver side of the car dropped a few inches. After looking at the holey frame, I thought the WORST. Without looking, told the wife this may have become a much more expensive project. I breathed a slight sigh of relief when I realized the FREAKING spring became unseated on the drivers front end. It was getting late, I jacked it up and have left it sitting in the garage. Since coming in, I read a thread on here suggesting that H&R springs tended to not extend when jacking up and could move around. I HOPE that is the case... and all I have to do is jack it all the way up to re-position it... re-seat it. I have no experience with springs... really hope I don't have to get a spring compressor to get this thing back together. That's the first keystone cop scene... the next one is my discovery that the previous owner doesn't appear to have sent me the key to the locking lug nuts! (he DID send me a gazillion spare lug nuts, but no key). I really hope the solution here isn't going to be forcing on a smaller socket... EVERY single lug is a locking one! Guess I'll try to contact the previous owner... on the outside shot he still has it in his possession. Things not going well thus far.

Here's my first goal: Get the car to the sheriff's local inspection office to allow it to be accepted into the state/validate title. Just one problem with that... I haven't been able to start it since shortly after having received it. After some diagnosis... help of folks here... I'm leaning towards the starter being a bit weak... preparing to order a recommended SR441X starter. I suspect there's probably a number of issues with the engine/carbs as well, but I'd really like to just get it started before researching further. I really need to get the inspection done here, and if I can't get the car started, I'll probably have to resort to the humiliation of having it towed in. Not sure if I really shared this in my first post, but I would characterize myself as a novice mechanic. I am 46 years old, and while I managed to replace a clutch in a Toyota 4x4 back in my early 20's, that is about the extent of the mechanical work I've done, maybe a starter replacement here, a fuel pump there, oh yeah, did a brake job once, that worked out okay, lots of oil changes, that's about it. I am highly motivated, have the resources to buy tools, etc... and am embracing this opportunity to become more adept at a hobby I have always wanted to become more active in (I also of a BMW Z4 which I autocross, so the whole car interest thing has really taken off again in my 'old age', largely coinciding with the last of my kids leaving the nest).

I thought I'd start a blog here for my own benefit as much as anything. Sort of a diary of my adventure, because I know it's going to be a long journey before this car lives up to the hopes I had when I bought it. As I said in another thread, I'm one of those idiots that got all caught up in an eBay auction for a car thousands of miles away, and bought it based entirely on a few photos/videos. Of course I was hoping to get this tricked out 2002 ready to take out the track. What showed up was a car that barely starts (now doesn't start) and is a pretty weak driver as well. At first I was mad, but as I've spent more time with it, and been taken in by those little round tail lights, I've quickly become attached to it and am slowly embracing the idea of taking advantage of the situation to gain a better understanding of cars in general, get my hands dirty, learn some new skills (with help of the good folks of bmw2002faq.com too!). The list of updates on the car is pretty substantial: -momo suede steering wheel -leather racing seats w/4pt racing belts -newer racing pedal assembly -new 4spd boot and knob -oil temp, oil pressure, and battery voltage vdo guages -H&R springs -front and rear racing sway bar kits from Ireland Engineering -front and rear race strut braces -big brake kit upgrade: slotted rotors, upgraded calipers, upgraded brake lines from IE (although brakes are really soft, need work) -battery relocated to the rear center w/ a battery cutoff lever under the hood -all front and rear bushings, tranny and engine mounts, replaced with urethane -bilstein shocks -billet IE 292 camshaft -two DCOE 40 weber carbs -upgraded fuel pressure regulator with wet engine compartment gauge -low pressure fuel pump, and complete new fuel tank -purportedly re-built engine -polished/coated performance headers and downpipe from IE -IE manifold gasket with built on spark plug heat shield -upgraded distributor and wires -all new hoses -ansa sport exhaust and borla center muffler -lightened flywheel -'upgraded rear axles' The body is pretty rough, lots of fiberglass repairs, more apparent in person than in photos... spray paint like finish, nice dent in the drivers side door. The body is actually the last of my concerns at the moment though, eventually I hope to celebrate with a thorough going over of the body. The frame is a bit holey though, and concerns me somewhat. I've read a few threads here to suggest that I may be able to patch it with some angle iron and welding. I guess that'll be another skill I'll eventually pick up. So the adventure begins.

SR441X... this is purportedly from a 5 series... so this fits with no modifications I assume? (reading of some minor changes required to wire it, nothing else) Autozone... everyone is having good experience with these 'Duralast' parts? Thanks. Jeff

New 2002 guy. This may apply to parts in general... wondering where everyone's buying parts from... specifically in this instance looking for a SR71X starter. Obviously my core would not be a SR71X... what does this mean where they're expecting a core back? Thanks! Jeff

Yeah that was my initial thought and tried a new battery, doesn't do any better. So perhaps voltage to the starter then, huh. It IS a trunk mounted battery as well... perhaps wiring somewhere.

Video, not withstanding any forthcoming recommendations for starting procedures. Someone said don't be deceived by the starter... but it does sound awfully weak. I'll let you guys decide. Battery is good... haven't checked voltage at starter yet. On this occasion it didn't even sputter... up to this point it had been on the first start... I suppose I'm flooding it as well... looking forward to recommendations on starting it. I've tried many techniques.

Thanks for all the feedback thus far... all great points. I have driven the car around when I've succeeded in starting it (which has highlighted other tasks which lay ahead for me hah). I'm going to post a video of a start attempt soon which perhaps will help shed some light on what I'm experiencing. Before I do, I might as well ask of you guys... what IS the preferred starting technique for this setup? The previous owner suggested pumping it a couple of times with the fuel pump running then starting at half throttle ("it may take a few cranks in colder weather", he says. 'few' cranks has been an understatement). The carbs are twin DCOE 40's. There's actually an under hood fuel pressure gauge which is reading right at 2 psi... so I think that looks good. If I can't get it started here pretty soon I'll start checking the voltage (I think the timing is good... it actually seems to purr nicely once it's started and warmed up... perhaps idling a bit high (although will that happen with a 292deg cam? maybe not, learning). Thanks!

Hello, pretty new here. I'm one of those guys who's dumb enough to buy a car from long distance without seeing it in person. I think the car has great potential, but I'm going to have to advance my mechanical skills considerably to get there. Fortunately, from what I can tell... this is the right place to be for advice. It's a '73 with dual webers and a billet 292 degree cam... purportedly re-built '5000 miles ago'. It has an electric fuel pump. I've had it started a few times, but it is very difficult to start... seems to run smoothly after it's been warmed up. Keeping in mind, I'm usually starting it in 30-45 degree temps this time of year (maybe 50 in the garage). It's been nearly a month since I started it last. I thought perhaps the battery was weak... temporarily replaced it... no difference. It sputters periodically, but that's about it. It turns over... but VERY slowly. I'm wondering if possibly the starter is sub-standard. One phenomena which strikes me as unusual... after letting it turn over a couple of times, when I turn the key to the off position, the engine actually seems to release tension in itself against the starter motor (maybe will do a video if it helps to illustrate later). I'm almost wondering if the starter has enough torque to turn it over sufficiently. Does this sound like a possibility at all? When I was perusing the archives a while back, I also thought I also saw something to suggest a higher degree cam might require a bit more torque as well??? Someone replaced their starter with a stronger one from a 3 series I was thinking... or maybe I dreamt this. Forgive me... I'm starting with a pretty basically mechanical knowledge base, but I'm anxious to learn (most impressive project I undertook was replacing a clutch years ago when I was about half my current age). Anyway... once I can get it to start consistently... I think I have all sorts of other issues to tackle (heater core, wind shield wipers, maybe a 4 to 5 speed swap, hah).