Inka’d02

So what you are saying is IF the advance is 10 at 1000RPM and when the idle drops to 600 it should still be at 10 degrees, correct? If it is not here is a couple of questions: 1. How would I go about pre-loading the first spring in a way that is reversible if it does not improve things? 2. Which spring is the first one? One extension spring in my distributor is under tension and one is loose (slightly longer) when the car is off.

Guys, I really appreciate the help but I feel like I am spinning my wheels here. 1. The linkage is returning to the idle position (against the stop screw when you release the throttle) repeatably every time. Let me add, in conjunction with the return springs in each carb, I have one pulling the linkage to home position. 2. The advance works fine, I set the idle advance to the suggested position of 10 DEGREE ADVANCE AT 1000 RPM. 3. Carbs are synced perfectly carb to carb and barrel to barrel. (checked at idle and at higher RPM done with the engine hot). I can not get it to idle right, the problem when I let off it drops to 1500 then slowly falls to 1000-1050 (holds for a few seconds) then continues to fall to 600 and holds. Engine rock starts around 800, which I guess could be associated with the 292. I checked the synchronization at 600 rpm as well, still perfect even though shes rocking. I also tried a couple of different idle jet sizes last night, 45F9, 45F8, 50F9, 55F9, no luck just different idle mixtures needed as to be expected. Maybe I can add one more piece of info that might help. If I set the idle such that it initially falls to anything over 1500, say 1600, it does not continue to fall, it just stays at 1600. At the end of the day I just need the car to back to idle faster, not pause at 1500 and take time to drop. And second I need it to not continue to fall after it hits 1000/1050 RPM. Thanks again everyone. Andy

No Dice. At 10 degree advance at 1000. I still get 1500 when I left off then slowly creeping down to 1000 and then falling off even more to 600. Engine starts to rock at 800. I have the carbs perfectly syncd and the linkage is hard stopping against the idle screw. As soon as I let off, no bind. 20200714_193800.mp4

Okay to have that 10 degrees at 1000 RPM?

Thanks Tom. Like I said everything moves freely. It is basically brand new. When I am saying recurve, I am more say custom curve, that is why I am leaning towards a 123.

15 degree at 1000 Rpm. 33 all in as well The Linkage is not binding.

Ok, that will require sending it out for re-curve?

I am doing all of my adjustments with the car plenty warmed up. Driven for 20 or so minutes then sync'd and adjusted. Start of this post explains the idle issue: "When I let off the throttle it comes down to 1500 RPM and it then takes 20 to 30 seconds to slowly creep down to 1050 or so."

OK Guys,, So here's where we are. I changed the emulsion tubes to F16. Re checked sync, the carbs are PERFECTLY balanced. Triple checked linkage for bind. Idle mixtures are 3.5 turns out. My sticking dist. weight (which is what I thought was the issue with dist.) turned out not to be sticking. Idles advance is 15 deg, a result of the 33 full advance. I feel like that is where the car happiest there under power. And it does run great under power. I would like to add one more symptom: The high idling issue if only an issue when it is HOT, when cold it idles really low (500-600 RPM). After about 5 min of driving idle becomes an issue. I am guessing at this point distributor re-curve as most have said. thinking about purchasing a 123? thoughts? Thanks, Andy

Actually yes! I may have a issue with my distributor, still investigating. Thanks!

geraci2002@gmail.com

Spanish. Has one

Thanks. I will look into this. For reference, I am using s NOS tii distributor which I switched to a Petronix. I will certainly check this. In your opinion what would you like to see for full advance? I have set to 33 degrees if I recall. Also, I have the idle set where it is because the engine rocks around at anything below 1000rpm. Thanks Again

Howdy! Another Weber DCOE question! I have new motor with 9.5:1 and a Schrick 292, running 40mm DCOE's. I am having an issue with idle (of course). These were purchased in 2010 and were working fine on my old motor which has a stock cam. When I let off the throttle it comes down to 1500 RPM and it then takes 20 to 30 seconds to slowly creep down to 1050 or so. It is REALLY annoying. I am running a cable set up pulling from the center. I have tried all different return springs from insanely stiff to no return spring, just the ones in the carbs. Throttle shafts move freely hot and cold. Synchronization is correct. Idle mixture screws are about 2.25 turns out. I feel like it must be a main to idle signal issue. Any ideas are appreciated. Mains: 125 Idles 55f8 Emulsion: F11 Air corrector: 180 Thanks!

I can't drive from CT to LA and back. If you want to give a price with shipping let me know. Thanks,

pm'd

Looking for a used: L Door R Fender Late Nose Panel. I am located in CT Thanks, Andy

Looking for a known good 2.0L long block. I am building a driver quailty car, needs to have decent compression, non-smoker. Located in CT, will pick in neighboring states or open to frieght quotes. Thanks!