Somchai

Hey There, Your NK must be coming along ? What you need is an adaptor fitting. Without checking the port you won't know if it is a tapered hole to suit a tapered fitting like NPT or a parallel hole to suit a parallel thread like BSP/UNF etc. They can be identified by using a thread gauge to see how many teeth per inch (TPI) or the easier way is to try a selection of fittings. This is easier in the West than in Thailand ( ask me how I know ) Best bet would be a good boat chandler/hardware store or if you have a good Chinese Thai run car parts store as they usually carry all sorts of bits and pieces. last option would be to locate a fitting that suits your hose and then drill out and tap your manfold port to suit. I prefer tapered threads so would probably do this anyway. Here's a pic of roughtly what you need. The hose goes over the stepped end ( the barb) the tapered threaded end goes into your manifold. This is only an example as there are several types of thread posibilities. Good luck ! As we know what seems an easy fix down at the local hardware store in the US isn't always so easy in South East Asia especially with a big language barrier..

Can't identify the debris by looking at the pics. But best bet would be to run a magnet over them. Then at least you would know if steel or aluminium and then a better guess at where the debris is from block / head etc.

I've read heaps of threads looking for info on an ignition circuit to suit my application. There is info about the ballast resistor and the resistor wire fitted to later cars. Also about the bypass wire to enable full power to reach the coil on startup. My car is a bit of a hybrid. And I'm building a new harness. I have a Bosch red coil and the correct ballast resistor so not using a resistor wire. Distributor has a petronix fitted. I'm also using the original 02 starter motor rather than a later type. Could someone check out my diagram and add in the connections required as the BMW drawings I have a bit ambigious using dashed lines etc. Or just use the numbers from the drawing to confirm what is right. Thanks

My car is a 76. It already has relays. One for high beam and one for low beam. But they are wired thru the light switch directly from altenator power line, This is BMW's third or fourth attempt at the wiring circuit and I don't see why it would cause problems if using the correct size bulbs and a completely new wiring ( of a larger gauge then standard) It may be different when using a 30 yo harness that has a lot more resistance. I also intend to mount four relays behind the headlight bucket but unsure whether to go with BMWs circuit or wire out the relays seperately and power from my 'hot' post. This to me seems strange as then the power is coming via the battery rather than in a direct line from the altenator charging circuit. This is really the crux of my post. It's going to be a completely new harness so which is best. Not just use an add on circuit cos the rest is old and high resistance .

I have a fully restored and painted 75/76 1502 shell with turbo arches and few other mods. It's waiting to receive a fast road 2.0 M10 with sidedraughts etc. The car will be a daily driver and my intention is to make the car as reliable and 'modern' as posible while retaining the look and flavour of the 02. It's not a period correct resto so I've take the liberty to 'improve' anyhting I can. The 76 cars light circuit is fused and has two relays for high and low beam. This is an improvement over the earlier versions but.. I have to build a complete new harness as the original one is shot. I have upsized the gauge of the wires to reduce resistance and have used thinwall cable. I have also resited the fusebox (under the rear seat) and used an aftermarket one with blade type fuses. The circuit is pretty simple, no buzzers, radio or any add on's apart from elec fuel pump. My switches are original and in resonable condition. So should be fine. However I'm undecided whether to just follow the original wiring with power running thru the switches/fuse box to the lights or to follow the more modern convention and power the lights thru the relays directly from my power distribution stud on the inner fender ( battery is in the trunk ) and just use the light stalk switch to energise the relay. I have read the excellent FAQ on the relay upgrade and dozens of other threads too. I've also read about the switches heating up and being unable to carry the high current draw on some of the earlier cars. Had BMW remedied this problem by 76 ? My car has H4 lights and I'm not planning on running super powerful 100w lamps. I'm a mechanical tech and also work with high voltage and video sytems so the wiring and building of the loom is within my ability. But I'd really appreciate some advice as to which would be the best solution for my lights.. Concerned that even with my wire upgrades the longer run from the relocated fuse box may result in low output at the lights. Also the BMW method of linking the relay functions seems overly complicated.

Okay guys thanks.. I have the newer green clips which fit the door card but don't line up with the holes in the doors. Guess that the door car must have been a replacement cos it looks like some sort of hardboard/fibreboard.. The cards need replacing so will make them to suit the door holes.

I have a 75/76 bodyshell but when I pulled the door cards they had been held in place with silicon sealant rather than trim clips. On closer inspection the trim clip holes in the card are correct and the same diameter as the clips I had bought (guess they are about the size of a dime) However the doors have holes around half that diameter and the spacing is different. Does this mean I have door from and earlier car ? Or do all 02's roundies/square irespective of age use the same hardware ?

Hey Ginger. Yep I'd realy appreciate the pictures. That is exactly what I was searching for. My mail is pattayadaz@gmail.com Thanks Daz

Thanks again for the info. I dry built the whole rear subframe assembly some weeks back and used longer bolts to pull the saddles down on the bushes. I was suprised to see how this caused the the bar to bind and prevent it from rotating. I'd planned to shim them out a way just as is shown on the front swaybar mount. I'd toyed with the idea of mounting the diff/driveshafts as well and fitting the entire assembly as one. Don't think it is beyond me but was concerned about damaging my new paint or the powdercoat on my frames.. So will probably add the diff etc after. Will be sure to get the swaybars setup correctly first now..

Thanks Bob. Yes I have seen the parts diagrams before. I used them for exactly what you suggested. Pretty sure I have all the parts. I made new rubber gaskets to replace my worn out factory ones. Was really just hoping that someone else had documented the build up process and especially the order to fit the parts. It's not too complicated to assemble, but this site is usually great for finding the easiest method which saves time and small mistakes. There are some great threads on adjusting the glass and door position but so far nothing showing which part actually goes where. I'm going to check the blue book later today to see if that has any info

Thanks guys. That was pretty much as I thought. It's hard enough to fit the bar and get the saddles pulled down over the bushes when on the bench. So didn't want to struggle once the frame was on the car. I'll leave the end links loose as suggested and see how it goes.. Thanks

Is it posible to install the rear subframe with the swaybars ( IE ) already in place ? My concern is that with the SB's attached it will be dificult to lower the swingarms enough to insert the coil springs. Or do I have to fit the subframe first along with the coils/shocks and diff etc first ? I don't have a lift on anythign fancy.. My rebuild is being done in my car port with only a couple of axle stands and a trolley jack.

It's about 18 Months since I stripped my doors down. I sent all the parts for plating and have replaced the broken door brakes etc. Took a bunch of photos but not in enough detail it seems. I spent the afternon sifting thru 40 pages of posts I located using the search function but only found one that had any detail (That was a link to the my2002tii.com site ) Can anyone point me in the direction of a thread or blog that details the build up of the doors internals, glass supports and regulator etc. Thanks..

From 'Wizards of NOS' Why Not Pure Oxygen? The simple and most relevant answer is because we couldn't get enough into the engine for it to be as effective as nitrous oxide. Air has only 23.6% oxygen by weight, the rest is made up largely of nitrogen. Although nitrogen does not aid the actual combustion process it does absorb heat, as well as damping what would otherwise be a violent explosion, rather than a controlled burn. When you add nitrous, it has 36% oxygen with the rest being nitrogen. So the more nitrous oxide you add, the less percentage of nitrogen is available to absorb heat. That's one of the reasons why adding more nitrous increases the heat of combustion very rapidly. If we were to add pure oxygen (which has been tried), the percentage of nitrogen would progressively decline to a much greater degree than with nitrous, as more and more oxygen was added. Consequently an engine wouldn't be able to handle much pure oxygen before the increase in heat lowered the detonation level to unusable levels. Furthermore, oxygen can only be 'readily' stored in a compressed 'gaseous' form, without being stored in a special cryogenic thermos cylinder (a cylinder within a cylinder with a vacuum between the two walls) and as a gas it loses the cooling effect that nitrous offers by being available as a liquid. Adding the oxidiser as gaseous oxygen would displace more air than adding nitrous in liquid form, resulting in a lower total power capability. In other words; by using nitrous oxide we can squeeze in more oxygen atoms in a more beneficial form, containing substantial amounts of detonation suppressing nitrogen, than would be the case with gaseous oxygen.

Not as far as I know Nick.. Just need a good strong spark/ign system and the internals to handle the extra hp. I've been looking at the idea for some time as seems a simple way to get 'turbo' performance when you need it. A tuned M10 giving 160hp could become a 210+hp motor with a hit of nitrous. Just right for the traffic light grand prix lots more info here http://www.noswizard.com/faq

What the OP is showing is referred to as a 'wet nitros' system. This means additional fuel is also injected along with the nitros. There will be 8 lines in total going to the inlet ports. 4 carry the nitros and the remaining 4 are hooked up to the fuel pump. Both sets of lines are solenoid controlled to open (usually at full throttle) Fuel injected cars can just run nitros lines and be mapped to increase fuel delivery as required. I'm very interested in a nitros setup for my my car as it is posibly the easiest way to gain HP on a modified car running carbs. (it's even easier on a modern EFI car) For a carb'd car supercharger and blow-thru turbo setups are a lot more complex than nitros. And modern nitros systems can deliver fuel and gas in a very linear fashion rather than just a hige dollop of power like the older systems. To me expecting to run a modified M10 (304 cam/upgraded internals/45DCOEs) the ability to have an additional 40-60hp on tap with few downsides seems a brilliant solution. Would love tohear more about your setup

Thanks Mike. Yes it's the horizontal shaft. Clevis at one end and thread at the other. Was pretty sure it was M6 as I could picture it in my mind but didn't want to end up with a large baggy hole. You can see the rod in the pic.. Luckily the bulkhead and MC have been refurbed since then. I made up a small stainless plate which will pull on the twin cables for my Webers. Thanks again. Somchai

I'm away from home so can't measure it. Just need to know the thread size of the horizontal section which attaches to the lever arm on the pedal box with a pin. The threaded end is the part which joins onto the carb linkage. ( This is for a RHD car ) so maybe a stretch asking here. The LHD has a different setup but uses some of the parts. Pretty sure it is either M6 or M5.. TIA Somchai

Thanks. Every little bit helps. And it's a cool pic too. I've used pics like this to 'eye' my airdam in on my car. My front end has had a few repairs in it's time so the panel shape can't be relied on. So by having the exact dimension I will be able to fit the panel to the airdam. Rather than the other way round ( if that makes sense ) Cheers

I've looked at dozens of pics and 'eyed' the fitting but could anyone with a turbo airdam (BMW original or close copy) give me the distance from the base of the grill to the top edge of the dam on a square rear light / black plastic front grill car ? I believe it is about 3.25 inches. Getting this correct will ensure that my front arches are at the correct height too. Thanks in advance (this pic is just for example and is actually of a RRL car )

I also have the Sytec twin cable kit. I'm still waiting to get my car back from the bodyshop but intend to modify the actuator arm and rod linkage on the engine bay side of the pedal box. I will fabricate a bracket to hold both of the outer cables and then attach the inner wires to the arm linkage. I had also hope that someone else had a cool design to solve the problem but guess it will have to e a bit of trial and error. I have seen another car using a single cable attached to the the actuator arm and that worked fine. I'll post my my efforts once I get round to it.. Still a lot of other work to get thru first.

Looks cool though ! Thanks.

Great stance.. really perfect. What springs/shocks are you using ?

Thanks Mark.. Wow those 225's look huge. But it's the sort of look I want. Think my car is a little lower than yours at the rear. Do you have any rubbing issues when the steering is on full lock ? Guess I could always go to a 7.5 rims at the front Thanks for taking the time to post.. Your car looks mean as hell.

Anyone have Rota RBs fitted with turbo flares ? My car is lowered 50mm with Tii struts. I want to fill the flares out. Checking an offset calc and doing some measurements seems to suggest that 15x8 +4s with 205x50 will fit. Would really like to see hpw they look. TIA Somchai