Jump to content

OriginalOwner

Kugelfischer
  • Posts

    3,812
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21
  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by OriginalOwner

  1.  WOW, looks great so far !!  And those 4 plastic fuel injection pipes are white in color:  they look new !!

     

    re. shimmy in the steering wheel.  

    --  Could be as simple as an unbalanced tire(s).  Or in my case:  tread separation.

    --  I also experienced shimmy when stepping on the brake, turns out the brake rotor was very run-out.  2 new rotors, no more shimmy.

    --  Make sure the steering box is full of gear oil.  My seal leaks very slowly these days and I have to keep an eye on that oil level.

     

    re. head gasket and alternator:  yeh, why not replace 'em and have peace of mind for the next decade or two.  I would also recommend a new voltage regulator, just because.  Or add one in your toolbox, readily available.

     

    re. this bolt:  http://careerstdnt.smugmug.com/Other/BMW-2002/i-qFd7KmS/0/M/photo%28474%29-M.jpg    

    I'll say it just to say it:  be sure to add the lockwire !!

     http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/127235-replacing-front-struts-this-weekend/

     http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/55963-mounting-bolts-for-ball-joint-to-strut-housing-opinions/ 

     

    Fuel system:  

    --  pull the sender unit out of the gas tank.  There is a delicate screen on the pickup tube, make sure it's clean.

    --  on the Kugelfisher injection pump, remove the banjo fitting on the front of the pump, there is a small mesh screen inside the bolt, cleaning required.

    --  as I recall on the back of the KF pump, there is an outlet fitting.  My faded memory tells me there is a small mesh screen inside the outlet fitting, cleaning required.

    --  on the intake tube of the electric fuel pump, there should be a small mesh screen inside the tube, cleaning required.

    --  install a new fuel filter in the fuel line before it gets to the KF pump.  I use a nothing-fancy metal canister filter from Pep Boys and replace it often.

    --  all the rubber fuel hoses:  replace AND BE CAREFUL !!  All outlet hoses downstream of the fuel pump need to be high-pressure hoses !!  The pump puts out significant pressure and "regular" fuel hose will soon fail.

     http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/145424-tii-fuel-pressure/

     

     

    New Topic to add to your storehouse of future project knowledge regarding the electric fuel pump:  http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm

     For the day when the electric fuel pump needs replacing, in my opinion you won't find a "reliable" replacement (I couldn't).  So the above article is what several have done.  

     And for what it's worth, my electric fuel pump needed replacing at least 10 years before it died.  Worked OK, but the bearings were beginning to drag and I didn't recognize the symptom of that.  So knowing what I know now ..... 

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  2.  for us SoCal'ers that is total tease:  what is the address so us local folks can drift over and drool over everything and drag our chins along the floor and commit other such wanton acts of jealousy and possessive covetness ??

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  3. That driver's-side trapezoid mirror is OEM, mine has it also.  He found and added the right-side mirror years ago.

     

    No idea of the brand of wheel, he found 'em in some SoCal junkyard for a cheap price.  I'm guessing the original rims are in some shed in the backyard.

     

    Other details .... hmmm .... vaguely I recall: 

    -- interior re-upholstered.  

    -- Pertronix installed.

    -- he installed lowered rear & front springs, but didn't like the stiffer ride, so as I vaguely recall they were un-installed.

    -- driveline rebuilt by a shop in Ventura.  Removeable U-joints with a zerk fitting installed.

    -- transmission rebuilt.

    -- stiffer sway bars front and rear ??  I changed mine in 1979, I think he followed suit.

    -- engine has never been out of the car, all the insides are factory original.

     

    I guess the most important:  never been bumped or in any sort of accident.  Everything nice and straight.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  4. I bought my '74tii in NOV 1974.  My sister liked it a lot and really enjoyed driving it.  She's a very good driver and I was never worried when she was behind the wheel.  Her husband was a mailman back then and spotted a '74tii in a garage on his route.  A couple of years later, after talking with the original owners many times, my sister was finally able to buy it in mid-1977.  

     

    They still have it, in the garage, covered with rugs and tarps and other such protective stuff.  It doesn't get a lot of use these days here in SoCal.  I think it has around 240,000 original miles.  A couple of changes from stock configuration, so I'll guess 95% original.

     

    Last week it saw daylight for the first time in a couple of years.  Fired right up and taken out for a cruise around town.

     

    Chris19742002tii___JAN2014___1.jpg

     

    Chris19742002tii___JAN2014___3.jpg

     

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  5. Front Wheel Bearings ..... any particular maximum mileage before they should be replaced ??

     

    I currently have 100,000 miles on the front wheel bearings (last replaced in AUG 1996).

     

    My driving these days is very easy.  Lots of freeway cruising, the occasional run through San Gabriel and Carbon Canyons.  No racing or hard/fast driving or cornering.  Bearings are not noisy in any way.

     

    As long as I keep the bearings properly greased, any reason to change 'em out as a regular maintenance item ??

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

  6.  Because the question needs to be asked for perspective:  are you certain it is actually the pan gasket which is leaking, that is, can you actually see the leak path(s) around the gasket ??  

     

    That interface is not necessarily a pressure interface, but I see it as a high vibration interface:  considering the weight of the pan and the physics of holding it in place during operation, one needs a very tight "grip" at the interface so nothing moves and thus creates leak path(s).  Hence the large number of bolts holding it in place.  If the pan is wiggling/sliding around during operation, I'm thinking the RTV will eventually break free and the leaks will begin.

     

    So as has already been mentioned above, I'll guess the pan is warped.  This could be the whole thing twisted side-to-side, or you've got a couple of places that are not "flat" in relation to everything else.  And the warpage or "unflatness" could be such that the bolt(s) doesn't pull that area into flatness and proper seal.  Or the bolt(s) vibrate loose creating a leak path.

     

    Washers:  I suggest using big washers under each bolt head to spread out the hold-down force and help prevent wiggling/sliding.

     

    RTV.  I've never used it.  I was raised using Aviation Form-A-Gasket and had good luck with it.  Maybe you will too ??

     

    OH, it just occurred to me after reading TobyB above:  maybe you've got a crack in the pan itself ..... or multiple cracks ??

     

    Cheers,

     

    Carl

×
×
  • Create New...