rctid

email sent re VDO pressure sender

email sent

Saw the aftermath of an '02 wreck yesterday afternoon crossing the Ross Island Bridge in PDX, wondering if it was anyone one on here? Nice squaretail in cylon(?) with turbo flares and fiberglass bumper. Hope everyone is ok, car looked like the front was crumpled a bit but salvageable.

Looking for a set of new or like-new (ie very low miles, look brand new, etc) stub axles. Pricing out a new set, thought i'd throw it out there and see if anybody's got some lying around. also possibly interested in a billet set, but not looking to spend alot of $$$. There's track time in my future, so i'm looking for a solid set to put my mind at ease. So... whatcha got? Thanks

e-mail: r.a.somerville at gmail.com

Portland, OR

I like the idea, how do they work/interface with the tapered surface on the track rod and steering arms? is there a conical insert?

How much? i'll take 'em if the price is right.

sounds good, i'll take 'em. shipping to 97219? what's your paypal addy and/or preferred method of payment?

EDIT: How much for the stub axles/are they usable? as of last night it appears i'm in the market...

interested in the license plate lights/holder, are they driver quality/usable? also e-brake boots, any holes? email: r dot a dot somerville @ gmail dot com

thx

no e-mail received. FYI

Paypal sent, FYI. Have to work to pay for my habit...

email sent re: late-model hazard

FWIW, I picked up the set of braided lines he had in the same sale (or the one before). Got them a few weeks ago, he was a bit dodgy on communication but parts came in the end.

Email sent on front calipers, rotors, MC, and lines (if paulcain passes)...

i'll take the drivers side window reg, please advise on shipping to 97219? email is r.a.somerville at gmail.com, i'll paypal once shipping price is figured in.

E-mail sent on oil pan...

I've got a set of late-style bumpers, two fronts and one rear. Rubber bits in ok shape, a few of the ends are torn. The aluminum is in decent shape, dirty but restoreable if you have the interest. Have all the hardware as well. Asking $50 OBO for the set, prefer local pickup in Portland, OR. If interested email me (r.a.somerville at gmail.com) for pics and more details. Thanks

just curious but what type of welding were you doing, mig, tig?

...do a 5 speed conversion

ah, some day... got cheap parts? budget is a bit thin...

Okay,

I've begun tearing into my recently acquired '02 and pulled the trans (232 4-speed) to have a look since it had been leaking. Upon removal, I discovered damage to the back cover that I think happened when a guibo bolt decided to leave (happened under PO's watch, haven't driven the car yet). The bottom third of the boss and seal around the shift rail has been shaved off, hence the leaking. There's also some chips off the adjacent bosses, but nothing more than cosmetic. There are also a few dents on the shift rail, three approx 1/4in long on the bottom side of the rail.

So I currently have two complete trans, the damaged one, and another in unknown condition that came with the car. The two appear to be in similar basic condition, with the damaged one slightly better. The input shaft on the spare has a fair amount of freeplay, probably 1/16in plus or minus. The damaged box feels solid on input and output shafts.

I see my two options as:

(1) Replace the damaged trans with the unknown, or

(2) Replace the back casing on the damaged trans with the spare, which looks good. If necessary, also replace shift rail

Both have pros and cons, but I wanted to get some advice on this from someone who's rebuilt these before. The complete swap is certainly easier, but the freeplay in the shaft seems borderline accetpable. Not really sure how much labor is involved in the swap on the back case, at first glance it seems like pulling the output flange is the hardest part. Sorry about the long post, but wanted to be as complete as possible. Any advice one way or the other would be GREATLY appreciated.

Cheers!

FWIW

Check units! ft-lbs are not in-lbs are not N-m...

58 IN-lbs sounds about right, approx 4.8 FT-lbs...

Applying 58 ft-lbs to the cover bolts would probably strip the nuts and/or bolts

Good Luck!

E-mail sent on the bosal/ansa

They are also available at any dealership ... they're not all that expensive - probably around $6

Maybe your local dealer is much more reasonable, I contacted mine about this less than a month ago, and they wanted $26 a pop for blanks, and they wouldn't cut them. I went to a locksmith and got 'em for $2.50 a piece. they're not steel, but get a few extras made and you won't have to worry about it

E-mail sent, got it back. sent it again, if you don't get it e-mail me directly w/ details. def interested, pics would be awesome if you got 'em. Thanks

r.a.somerville@gmail.com

OK, so i'm tired of driving around with accordians on my car, and was looking for some tips on how to go to the shorty bumpers on a '74 o2. Particularly, what bumpers work, any conversion that needs to be done, parts needed, etc etc.

Also, do the early bumpers work, or is it the euro-version that i need (or am i totally lost)?

Already posted in the WTB, but if there's a good source for these parts that'd help too

Looking for the euro shorty bumpers for a '74 02 in/around the PNW if possible. I'd throw down for shipping if they're in good shape/good deal. Looking mostly for rear set, but would take a front set as well if available. Let me know... Thanks!

OK total noob here, i just picked up a '74 02 and she's in kinda rough shape...

First thing on the menu is exhaust, and lo and behold i have neither the down tube hanger or any of the hardware for the joint at the center resonator. I've done some digging to try and find the hanger assy (including the pieces that bolt to the tranny) and can't seem to find it anywhere. Any advice on where to find this?

Also taking suggestions on a good replacement/aftermarket exhaust, mine is full of holes