rctid

Just picked these up yesterday on the local CL, and can't seem to track down what they are. They're 15x7, 4x100, seem to be an E30 fitment w/ ~4.5" backspacing. "Made In England" also stamped on the rim. Cast Al, weighs in around 18lbs, so pretty heavy. Anyone have a guess at a brand / origin? TIA

SOT, but do you have a wheel weight on those?

Drool... this *almost* makes me want to postpone paint for a nice fat set of flares. What are the specs on those wheels?

I'm interested! e-mail sent but if you don't see it send me a message at r dot a dot somerville @ gmail dot com

For those of you w/ sidedraft experience:

Is there an advantage to the Weber 40DCOE over the Dellorto 40DHLA? I've got a rough set of 40DCOE's that will require machine work & a lot of spare parts to make whole, and I've got a line on some fully rebuilt Dellortos. Is it worth it to make the webers work, or should I spring for the Dellortos?

Check for frame rail or nose damage. Even a light fender-bender can push the nose back near the fender, causing the fender to bow out around the wheel arch and give a perceived difference in fitment.

I had the same issue on my track car, the right wheel arch was bowed out about 3/8". After pulling the fender and attempting to refit, it was clear the lower edge of the nose where it mates to the fender was farther back than it should have been. The damage was indiscernible aside from the bowed fender but after pulling the fender, I found a slight ripple in the inner fender wall. I was able to pull it back out most of the way by hand, but a decent body shop should be able to do the job no problem.

Email sent re incomplete hub

email sent

NM/NA

rough any way you cut it, but an interesting swap i haven't seen before.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/2716629940.html

I think your are right Bob, 34 and 50 would make sense if it follows a pattern.

With my setup I am unable to set the float much lower than about 49mm, as it hangs on the power valve before its hits the tab. It could be I have the wrong float, but it's the one that came w/ the carb

Muchas gracias, CD. Saw this before, but assumed the DGES had a different setting than the DGV. I'll give this a try...

Can anyone verify the correct float level for a weber 38 dges w/ the plastic float? I've searched hi and lo, can't seem to find it for the plastic float specifically. TIA!

Ansa sport or OEM?

Looking for a center cap for a 14" E30 basket weave and an Ansa sport muffler for the side-exit cars (pn BW0227 I believe). Im in Portland, OR (zip 97214), would be willing to pick up locally/NW area. Let me know what you have r.a.somerville at gmail.com

Thanks,

-Richard

sent an e-mail earlier, not sure if it went through. interested, please email me at r.a.somerville at gmail dot com. Thanks,

-Richard

I've got a set of billies i pulled from my car recently, and i can't seem to find the matching part # in bilstein's catalog to determine what they are. Stamped on the body is:

2430023H02

and the date code 10/82. I have a hunch they're HD's, can anyone confirm this? Did bilstein ever make anything besides the HD and sport shocks for the '02? TIA

interested in the 15" OZ alpina reps, can you email w/ pics and price? r.a.somerville@gmail.com thanks,

-Richard

Metric Grade 10.9:

Sigma(y.s.) = 940Mpa

Stainless 18-8:

Sigma(y.s.) = 551MPa

Ref: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Stainless is much more ductile than hardened steel fasteners. I'd bet the bolts stretched, leading to failure after joint separation.

That's a bummer, man. That car looked awesome... I'm sure you'll get it back in shape in no time

second in line for mirrors if it falls through. email sent

I've got two fronts and one rear bumper, all complete w/ shocks, hardware etc. One front is pretty decent, other is ok but both could look good once cleaned up. e-mail me if you're still interested, I'll be in Tacoma area this weekend and could deliver there if you'd like. email is r.a.somerville at gmail dot com. Thanks,

-Richard

very interested, would you be willing to ship to 97219? What condition are the carbs in?

So I've reached the paint and body stage in my '74 refresh and now I'm looking for a good body shop who can take care of this right. My goal is a full exterior re-paint, in the original malaga or as close as I can get. Anyone have any experience to share with shops in the greater portland area, or with body shops in general? Any input/past experience is appreciated. Thanks,

-Richard

wow that nail trick sounds pretty handy, too bad i didn't see that about two weeks ago. i cut square tabs approx the same size as the hole and welded them in, not the cleanest method but it works. definitely have to seal the backside well to prevent corrosion and fill pinholes though.

Looking for a good clean straight pass front fender. I'm located in portland, or but may be willing to travel to seattle area too. not sure what shipping would be on something like this, but if reasonable id be interested. email is r.a.somerville AT gmail dot com. Thanks

yes, pics please! interested, send to r.a.somerville AT gmail.com

thanks!