rctid

+1, I had the same problem with mine. I trimmed the rough parts away to get a clean edge, then cut filler panels to cover the hole from 22ga sheetmetal. Painted it up to prevent corrosion, then RTV'd the filler panels in place from the top. works well for sealing up the cabin, and requires no screws.

Thanks for the offer. Did a little digging and realized I already had a 3.64 in the car, so no need for another. If it blows up, I may get in touch w/ you...

Looking for a good 3.64 diff to swap into my '74. I'm located in Portland, OR; if you're somewhere close I can pick up. Also interested in an early gauge cluster that would match the 3.64 gearing as well. r.a.somerville at gmail.com. Thanks!

-Richard

Thanks for all the info, I didn't realize the E-code headlights were meant to cut off like that. I'll walk through the aiming procedure officially to see if I get any better results.

Looks like he's got the wipers going as well...

I installed a pair of Hella H4 e-code headlights, but the low-beam pattern is projecting very low and seems narrow. The buckets are at the top of adjustment, and the beam still cuts off about waist high. I'll try to get pics tonight to illustrate, but just curious if anyone else has run into this?

Yikes. I live in pretty hipster-centric area of Portland, and while there are countless fixies tooling around I have to say they're not as bad as it sounds the LA/SF fixie-DBs are. Never had anyone whip past me in traffic, or even blow a stop sign other than on some quiet side-street. As much as I hate having to pay for them, the bike lanes around here really seem to keep the traffic contained on the major roadways.

Not sure coil location is definitive. My '74 has the coil in the same place as this one, as does my '73.

interested, can you e-mail me with details / pics? r.a.somerville at gmail dot com. Thanks

I just spent a few minutes (okay, hours) perusing some of the more modern BMW forums, got quite a chuckle. In at least every other thread, someone suggested with great conviction that a problem be officially diagnosed by a dealer. I have not once seen an FAQ'er lend this as a primary solution to an issue, great or small. I understand there is definitely a difference between a vintage and modern car, and there are many things (especially on BMWs) that require specialty tools and equipment to fix. But all too often I see people run with their tails between their legs to a dealer or mechanic on issues that could easily be solved with some elbow grease and common sense. And so I say, KUDOS to the FAQ for not being "that guy" and embodying the DIY spirit. Keep it up.

Okay, my rant is over. Thanks.

I just shot my car with omni / ppg basecoat/clearcoat in a malaga equivalent. Omni is PPG's economy line of paint, so quality will be lower. The supplier recommended using omni base to save money, and a PPG clear for better quality topcoat. The topcoat is what really matters for UV protection and longevity. All told I was in ~$650 for paint material; 1gal base, 1gal clear, and assorted reducer/hardeners to make it work. Was plenty of material to finish the car with 3 medium-wet coats of each. If you are only doing part of the car, I would recommend going with a higher-quality base, as the color-match will be much better.

As for water-borne, I have no expereince. I'd recommend solvent-based, unless your painter has experience with the water-borne. Cost-wise, I think they are similar.

Not to dissuade you, but my rear wheel bearings were extremely difficult to replace. It probably depends on your trailing arms, as some have reported the job as relatively easy. With mine, the bearings were a fairly tight press fit, and the stub axles were press fit into the bearing races. Using a deadblow, brass punch, and a LOT of elbowgrease, the whole job took me ~4 evenings of work. With a hydraulic press and bearing puller, could have been done in 2hrs. I'm all for DIY, but that is probably one job I will take to the shop in the future. Aside from that, the rest of the suspension is pretty easy to refresh, and does make big difference. Just my '02 cents...

This is a pretty fun drive, mostly 'dubbers and e30s. I went last year and spotted two maybe three other '02s out of literally 1000+ cars. It can be pretty crowded at the start, but its a beautiful drive. This is also the drive where someone told me my car looked like a boat.

Don't thread crap especially if your car isn't worth as much as these parts.

You pretty much asked for it.

anyone have motor specs from this setup?

email sent about mirrors & trans setup

Would you split the tails at all? I'm looking for replacement L & R reflectors... email is r.a.somerville at gmail.com. Thanks,

-Richard

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it a trade-off? Increasing offset and tire size will, as you note, change your scrub radius and lose steering balance / feel. But you also gain traction through a larger contact patch and reduced roll from stiffer tires. Obviously there is a limit to the trade-off, and the intended use of the car dictates where you want to be in that range, but the "horrors" of plus-size tires aren't wholly unmitigated. Not to mention they look much better than the stock steelies.

+1 for powdercoating. If you want to do it right, the only way to go. It's not THAT much more than good paint, and much more durable. That said, I was lazy/cheap and used epoxy "chassis" paint. It's held up well for 5k+ of hard winter driving, but time will tell. Prep is most important here though.

Thanks all, may have one sourced locally. I will find out tomorrow if its any good, and get back to you

Looking for a Tii exhaust manifold and downpipe. If not, I'll take a stock manifold in good condition. Would like to get it relatively soon, as I am choking my way to work everyday thanks to a leak. Email me at R dot A dot Somerville @ gmail.com if you've got something and we can discuss. Thanks!

I couldn't go on a drive this 02/02/12, so I did the next best thing: caught a beautiful sunrise over the Puget Sound and snapped some artsy-fartsy shots with the '02

I've got to agree with flyingjolly on this one. Props to OzTom on the recognition and build, and the car looks absolutely fantastic. That said, 90% of the content Stanceworks brings is utterly ridiculous, and IMHO the whole thing smells a bit "douchey". To each his own i suppose.

I'll take the IE camber plates. E-mail sent re: shipping / payment etc

-Richard

Confirmed, MiM 1900's 15x7 et13. Thanks for the help guys, btw anyone here run these on their '02? Originally planned on tracking these, but they're too heavy. Maybe I'll try to sneak them on the daily...