rctid

i dig the bmw badge on the intake manifold, very convincing...

Does anyone have experience with shops in Portland, OR for carb tuning? 

I recently finished swapping in a lynx manifold / single sidedraft swap, and I'm having a lot of trouble getting it running properly. Frankly I don't have the time or space to get it dialed in myself, and I'd like to get an expert opinion on what needs to be done to get it running well. If you know any shop in the area that has experience with DCOE tuning, I'd appreciate the heads up. Thanks

kyalami - check your inbox

Rob118 - sorry doors are stripped, no cards.

FREE to good home! Moving, and need to get rid of this stuff. If no one takes it, it's going to the scrap heap.

-Doors, 1x driver and 1x passenger

-Front fenders, pair

-Front seats, gobi, faded but good shape

-Gas tank, no leaks when pulled, w/ sender

-mostly complete set late model knee trim

-Late model rear bumper w/ mounting hardware

Everything came from late model 2002's. Located in SE Portland, it's free so I'm probably not going to ship just to avoid the hassle. feel free to stop by and take what you want, or make a donation to my '02 improvement fund!

2nd on the Rockwell test. The numbers don't lie, but I'd be surprised they were too hardened to cut with the right tool

Are those the A4's? How do they fit in the car? Always thought they would have issue near the B-pillar...

I've been really eyeing the GTS seats, but not sure how well they would fit, or if I would like them.

I switched on some new shoes, a set of 15x7 et20 with 205/50R15 kumho's, and the car is now very darty on the freeway with a heavy steering effort. When I switch back to the 14x6 et30 w/ 195/60R14, problem goes away. I can still feel the car tramlining, but it's not pulling like with the bigger setup. What is the biggest contributor? Offset, tire size, camber/caster, toe? The car was recently aligned, and it looks like camber is very low (0.2deg) and caster is different between the two sides (3.5 and 2.6deg). The toe looks good, and on flat, level pavement car does not pull or wander

Quick question regarding fuel supply connections:

I have a tii tank in my car with a carb-style fuel sender unit. The car is running a single sidedraft with a stock fuel pump. the fuel supply is currently hooked up to the carb'd sender, and the tii supply line is plugged. I'm getting fuel leaking out of the plugged line, it seems like fuel is getting pushed up the pickup, especially when the tank is filled. What is the best way to hook everything up, is there any advantage to using the tii fuel pickup over the carb'd sender? Can I plug the carb'd sender and move the supply line to the tii pickup? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

The car has been sold. Thanks!

96k miles? yikes...

hello all, I've decided to put up my 2002 for sale. Below is a link to the ad, I'm asking $6500. I believe it's a fair price for the car as it sits, but I'm open to opinions. If you have any questions, feel free to message me here or through PM. Thanks,

-Richard

craigslist ad - 1973 BMW 2002

240 is the way to go, if your facilities support it. There is nothing wrong with a 120 welder for sheet metal work, and even smaller projects up to 1/4". Like many others here, I bought a Millermatic 135 w/ autoset and have had excellent results. The other plus is that they will hold their value and you can actually get some of your investment back if you decide to sell it. Not so with the cheap units.

As for duty cycle, for the first several projects, your welder will far outpace your skill level. By the time you have some experience under your belt, you'll have a better idea of what you want and what you need.

My $0.02

I did the same thing, dry gaskets all around. Leaked like a sieve around the front timing chain cover, so I dabbed at the corners. Still leaked. Ended up RTV'ing the whole perimeter, as well as the valve cover. No leaks anymore, but I must be doing something wrong.

These are MIM 1900's. Don't know anything about this particular set, but I'm running the same set-up on my '74. it's a tight fit, doubtful if your car is lowered or on stock suspension as they will probably rub. They are also somewhat heavy, ~18lbs. They look great though! Not the best detail, but here is a pic:

that is some serious coin for a car in that condition. Hagerty lists the value at ~$125k, condition 1! I don't see the restoration costs justifying the investment...

If you want your touring to look badass...

more here

interesting, I'll have to play around with it once I get it set up. I'll have to drill the chokes out too, since they don't have holes to match the air bypass ports. From what I've read, everyone says it's just for synchronizing the barrels at idle and can be closed. But if I can adjust the progression advance as well (makes sense), then they are a lot more useful. I'll report back with my findings...

Well I tore into the carbs this week, they were C-R-U-S-T-Y. Rebuild kits on the way, well see if I can get this thing to run. I'll be running this on totally stock motor with a single side-draft manifold. I'm hoping the initial jetting will work with some tweaking:

Chokes: 36

Mains: 140

Airs: 200

Emulsion Tubes: F16

Idle: 55F8

Pump: 45

These carbs are also equipped with air by-pass, connects a vent in the choke to a vent downstream from the throttle plates. not sure what to do with them as far as tuning, seems like I could just seal it off.

Attached are pics of the progression holes and the air by-pass

what's the overall diameter of the steering wheel?

For the weber sidedraft guys: I have a pair of crusty 40DCOE sidedrafts i'm looking at reviving. Carbs are marked as TIPO 40DCOE44 and 40DCOE45, made in italy. From what I can tell, they came from an Alfa 1600. will these carbs work with the 2l displacement? I'm probably going to do a single sidedraft setup, and I'm guessing re-jetting. I've heard the different type DCOE had different locations for the progression holes, and might not work for other applications. Anyone know?

Anyone know how the NADA valuations are determined? Last time I checked, "Low Retail Value" cars matching their description were averaging much less than $10k on the market.

well that was quick.

hah, duh. 350mm is ~14". 16 must've been what i was thinking... nice

nice... what's the diameter? I'd love to find something similar in the ~14" range. my 350mm momo is just too small

Is the wiper motor installed on the linkage frame? I just re-installed mine as well, and had to leave the motor off to get the frame into place. On my car there was a small rubber block glued to the top of the firewall as a damper for the wiper motor as well, I fought with this quite a bit to get the motor installed again. Once in though, it was tight and well supported.