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amdavidson

Solex
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Everything posted by amdavidson

  1. Are the hazard switches for early or late cars?
  2. Does anyone know (or can measure) the shoulder length on an 8 bolt guibo bolt? I'm trying to find new hardware locally and know they're M10x61 according to RealOEM, but don't know how long the shoulder is. Thanks.
  3. I think this is incorrect. Every county has smog regulations for 76s set by the California Air Resources Board. Some counties have additional regulations above and beyond the CARB ones, but everyone has to deal with CARB.
  4. I think the Kameis and the repros look great on flared cars, but yours has a classic look that might get confused if you add a spoiler.
  5. Bump. Suspension is nearing completion... Gonna need wheels for this cruiser.
  6. Yup, first place I tried. They don't have any anymore. Neither does 2002AD.
  7. I have found endlink bushings all over the place, but can't find any urethane swaybar mount bushings for my stock 15/16mm bars. Does anyone know where to get them? Or does anyone have a set that they can measure to tell me the dimensions so I can make my own?
  8. So the previous owner of my 75 did a number on the stock exhaust manifold trying to crimp it off after doing a partial de-smog of the car. I'm now looking for a Tii or other non-smog 2002 manifold. Also need a set of cheap 14" wheels. 6" Steelies, bottlecaps, basketweaves. I'm located in the South SF Bay Area, I know there are a lot of 02 guys around here and would love to avoid having to pay for shipping.
  9. It seems that no one has mentioned this last line... If you have a whole e30 M3 do not separate the drive train from it, whether or not it has a rebuilt/salvage/whatever title. Those cars are gems that need to be preserved. Build a nice M10 that will get your 2002 moving and rescue the poor M3.
  10. Putting 600hp through a 2002 requires more than a diff and more than $2000 in suspension and drive train. I'm thinking tube chassis... Don't forget that this car never left the factory with more than 170hp.
  11. To all of you who have replaced, are replacing, or are planning on replacing your trailing arm bushings: Please, please, please install the bolts with the bolt heads facing inwards. This will allow anyone in the future to remove them without having to deal with removing the exhaust to get them out. Now that that is off my chest, does anyone have any tricks for separating a very rusty (but not rusted through) muffler pipe from the center resonator without needing to buy a new exhaust?
  12. Interesting. My car is 2370210 and is titled as a 1975. Don't ask me how it was done, but it is possible.
  13. I tried the $3 wonder tool, I pined for the BMW Bushing removal tool, but I was actually successful with a torch. I wrote a little more about it here. TL;DR: Grab a propane torch, heat the race, grab it with pliers, and pull it out. That IS the easy way.
  14. That would only work if the camera had perfect white balance. Like if the photographer used a gray card or something of that nature.
  15. I'm a manufacturing engineer. I work to translate the designs of mechanical and electrical engineers into something that can actually be manufactured. Worked for Apple for several years (leading the iPad program) but recently moved on to a fuel cell company to try and change the world a different way. I started as a mechanical engineer in college and didn't like it. Manufacturing engineering is interesting work, definitely not as intensive in the math and theoretical aspects of engineering as other disciplines but very heavy on the practical aspects. Everything has to be made somewhere, and my jobs have taken me all over the world. China, Japan, Taiwan, Switzerland, Germany ... Go to college, take a lot of classes until you find something that fits. There's a lot more out there than most high schoolers realize (myself included).
  16. I saw a nice looking chamonix touring tii in Sunnyvale this morning on my way into work. Was that anyone on here?
  17. Well, the issue was traced back to a condenser wire that fell apart during the adjustment of the timing. The car is now running well, and the timing settled. Thanks to all who posted.
  18. Well, I had success and then dramatic failure last night. I tried to check the timing, but for the life of me could not find the notches on the engine or pulley. Does anyone have advice as to what angle to look at to best see these? Any angle I check is covered with water hoses or fan shrouds. Any photos or images out there? I then adjusted the timing by ear and got it running pretty well, but it felt like it was a little over retarded on a drive despite no major issues. I pulled her back into the garage and adjusted the timing again. But by the time I got her to the end of the street she had stalled and despite my best efforts to adjust her timing back, I couldn't get her started again. Any advice as to how to get to ground zero on the timing so I can readjust?
  19. Still running points, haven't replaced them myself and don't know how old they are. I'll check that. Timing is on my list for tonight, need to pick up a timing light on the way home. Dwell read ~65 degrees last night. I read online that it should be 60, but didn't find an allowable range. Is that close enough? Haven't looked at the valves yet, but the valve cover gasket weeps a little and I have a new one, so I'll tackle that this weekend.
  20. It has the stock carburetor, but that's good to keep in mind.
  21. Thanks, this is a new issue to me as I just bought the car. The P/O says that it didn't happen to him, but who knows. I'll take a swing at checking the float levels and jets when I get home.
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