haromich

Well guys, I am having to let go of my first and favorite 2002. I am shamelessly listing it on eBay.

I hope to be in the market for another 02 driver in much better shape next Spring. Maybe even with A/C!

Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170732673103#ht_1594wt_1165

I take second place on the air dam should the first buyer's offer not work out. Thanks. hsarmstrong@comcast.net

Most of the interior is gone. I think the rear seat back is still there. There is no sunroof. All the suspension system is in place though. Good hunting.

Thanks for the leads guys. Even an inquiry to Duplicolor mfgr came back with a personalized response that they don't come close. So, Esty is wise, after thinking about it, a 2002 with measles would look worse than as is.

Nope. It's the Parts Galore downtown just off I94. I think it's on Tireman, or Warren Ave. I can get the exact number if you want. The vehicle is all the way at the back (far end) of the yard in the OLD STUFF (literally) section, at the far end of the row next to the concrete block wall. Hope this helps. I got the transmission out of it, and was thinking about fetching the drive shaft. First come, first served though.

You're right Esty. Hey, maybe I could build on the yellow measles theme! Well, maybe not too.

I'm wanting to touch up many small rust spots on my 1976 02. I'm trying to do this on the cheap and want to avoid having to go the $20 custom blended rattle can route. Does anyone know of a any sort of match with the cheaper common paint brands? Duplicolor, etc rattle can types. My searches of the forum haven't yielded any clues for cheap brands, but do provide many sources for the high end exact match blends. Thanks for whatever tips you can give me. Signed -- "cheapskate" Harold

For those in the Michigan/Ohio/Indiana area, I found a 73 02 at the local "Parts Galore" junk yard. Cheap parts for those who can go get them. The engine and trans is gone, but the rest of the drive train is still there, as well as the complete prop shaft, dif, and all suspension members (Rear axle, knuckles, steering, etc). The complete steering and brake system is present also. The body is shot. I'll try to get some photos if anyone is interested. I'm not really interested in becoming a middle man, I'm just passing along a "find".

I have a 1976 2002 project car for sale that may fit your situation. I currently have it on craigslist (Oakland County, SE MI) and here on 2002faq. It would require a lot of cleaning up and reassembly. The engine in it "works", but you can use it as spare! Regardless, good luck on your project. Harold

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/2085087787.html

Project car in SE MI, which I have shamelessly listed on craigslist. Beneath some surface rust, sheet metal very solid. Engine fires using starting ether (briefly, since cooling system is not assembled). Bought at VOA auction (another 2002faq had donated) disassembled, and have been buying the missing parts over the last year. It was intended for my grown son, but he has changed plans. Many photos available, just let me know what you want to see besides those on craigslist.

Can see a few at: http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/2085087787.html

Slam: AOL apparently refuses Comcast mail(!). Sounds like techno competition. I have emailed the payment via paypal.... the shipping address will be on the paypal notice you receive. Thanks again. Harold

Slam 105: My emails to you are being rejected by AOL (they must know me or something). I'll take the door handles with the shipping mentioned, but I which address should I use to send payment via PayPal. Thanks.

Hi. I'll take the door handles with keys if they're not already gone. I can't seem to get your email to work, so just let me know shipping and I will send paypal. I'm at hsarmstrong@comcast.net

(nt)

I'd like the turn signal switch/headlight dimmer if still available. Just let me know shipping (MI, 48304) and I will use paypal. hsarmstrong@comcast.net.

Have the driving lights gone? My email is hsarmstrong at comcast dot net. Thanks

I feel like a ninny, but I have to ask... what's a parcel shelf? Is it the panel behind the rear seat in front of the backlight?

Are you still running with the rubber rear brake lines?

Uh, oh, I'm going to show my ignorance.... "flare only air dam": are there other types of front air dams?

Thanks guys for the lnfo. Harold

Do someone know the ballpark cost?

Thanks for the pointers guys. I'm going to give'em a try before taking everything apart! Harold

for reverse, try slowing down a bit - push the pedal down, wait a beat or two, and then shift.

I usually try to keep it under 10 mph before shifting into reverse... ha, ha. Seriously, even sitting in place, and giving it a full minute doesn't alway solve the problem. Thanks though, I recall it took me six months learning your point when I first started driving!

I put in all new clutch m/c and slave cylinder. I tried to go the cheap and didn't replace the lines though, even though prior posts explained how the rubber lines can swell (But I would think that would cause excess slipping). Unfortunately, the throw-out & pilot bearing or something binding sounds consistent with the overall condition of the vehicle when I first got it last year (all gummed up/not operational due to sitting with a leaky roof for many years.)

I hope the adjustment rod works, because new lines, clutch, throwout bearing -- ($) ouch ($) -- probably won't be cheap. I was given the car for free to save it from the steel recycling mill (and have paid for it ever since).

Who was it that said "bring a wallet when you go to get a BMW!!!

Mike: Thanks, I'll keep tinkering with the clutch adjustment. I knew about the second gear issue (and usually double clutch going into that gear), but the sporatic first and reverse grind has me stumped. Thanks again. Harold

Guys: My 69 20 (built Sept 68, VIN 1663275) has been running great, even though the synchro ring must be wearing out in second gear. I've been told I have the early version 4 speed, mated version with a "long neck" differential. Recently though, the gears occasionally grind badly shifting out of neutral to first or reverse. It only occurs every 20 shifts or so (it's not consistent). The clutch is adjusted correctly (engages about halfway through the pedal travel). Does anyone have any suggestions/advice?