M3M3

12 hours ago, Polymerjohn said:

P.S. - I would be happy to scan and post the rest of the Owner's Handbook if y'all are interested.

Owners manual is already available on this site in the articles section,  along with a lot of other documentation. 

agree it is sounding like MC seals.  could have dried up when system open, or got nicked if pedal pushed past normal range.  on an old MC that may have not had the fluid changed often enough, the moisture in the old fluid can create a little surface rust in the "deep" section of the MC that the piston does not usually sweep.  if pedal is pushed beyond normal range while bleeding, the seals can hit that rust and tear.

i would say time for new MC.

20 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

But the factory used loctite on the flywheel bolts. Loctite was invented in the early 50's and was made in Germany by the early 60's.

 

true, but did not get widely accepted/used in automotive industry until late 60's/70's.   long after specs for 2002's were laid out.

certainly wiring the bolts works, but there are other options that work.

11 hours ago, 72MetallicMalaga said:

I was debating picking up red! The only reason I used blue was because the Hack Mechanic article mentioned it. Hmmm.

Blue is fine.  With bolts tq'd to spec,  they won't come out. 

The factory spec'd wire because locktite didn't exist at the time. 

I have never seen a 245 install be centered in the tunnel with the guibo aligned correctly.  The 245 ends up jammed as far to the drivers side as possible to get the ds aligned correctly.   That should get the shifter centered in the hole. 

"Racing" brake fluid not needed, but GOOD NEW fluid is.

I run ATE Type200 in everything i own.  street cars, trucks, HPDE cars, full tilt 400+hp race cars.  zero issues.  ever.

1 hour ago, Pdxguy said:

Wouldn't a reversed booster vacuum non return valve cause the brakes to lock up? Below link talks about it locking up when engine is on. Would brakes be soft when engine is off with a reversed non-return valve?

 

 

Thanks,

Dennis

no.

reversed check valve just prevents any vacuum from getting to booster...resulting in no boost.  

LOL...exactly as i said in that old thread right after the poster claimed his brakes locked up......

bravo to the owner/driver for beating on a priceless engine....as it was intented to be used for.

however, the considerable smoke exiting the left side of the car in several of those clips does not bode well for the engine health.

that engine was posted for sale on FB also.  zero info on engine history.  in the FB ad it claimed to be not running well.

price is way too high for a stock engine with zero history...even for an S14.

back to bleeding.  how are you doing it?  if no pressure bleeder, get one.  a motiv type bleeder should be a standard part of everyone's tool box, along with a bleed bottle that either hangs or has a magnet on it.

bleeding brakes in not a black art.   

fill reservoir to the top

attach pressure bleeder (empty)

pump up to 10psi.

attach bottle and hose to bleed valve. makes zero difference which corner you do first, but the three bleeders on front calipers have an order.  been a while but I think i remember "IOU"  inner, outer, upper.

open a caliper bleed valve. 

leave bleed valve open.  should be a slight flow.

pump brake pedal slowly 5-10 times.

close valve.

check level of fluid in reservoir.  if low, refill.

repeat steps for each bleed valve.

that will ensure no air in system.  if pedal hard with engine off, then soft engine on, you may have a booster or vacuum issue.

if pedal hard with engine off, but with continued pressure slowly goes down to floor, the MC is toast.

BTW - you can be reusing the brake fluid during this process.  its clean and new.  take the stuff you bled out and put it back in the reservoir.

Go for it!  Guaranteed big stupid grins on your face after every session.   Way, way more fun than anything you can do on street or auto-x.

Any good track day organization like BMWCCA will require a tech inspection by an approved shop.  Get a copy of the tech sheet and check it yourself before taking for inspection.  Get it done early so there is time to fix any discrepancies. 

Pay attention to the safety stuff.   Generally must have a snell 2015 or newer helmet.   As an instructor,  I would also not get in a car that has original 50yo seatbelts....

Any excuse to use the plasma cutter and a welder!

The benefit of NOT using 100oct is to your wallet.   $16-20 a gallon around here.  I use about $350 of it every race weekend. 

Unless you are fighting for the podium in a race with an engine designed and tuned to use it,  there is no reason to run 100.

And are all the oil filters you are trying the same brand and age?  Are you pulling the rubber seal off the filter and oiling it before installation?

2 hours ago, Zak said:

Furthermore, servicing such as bleeding the slave cylinder in place is nearly impossible. Removing and replacing it is a total pain. There just is very little room in the 02 transmission tunnel.

LOL!  that was a deep dig to find that quote!

hmm... never had an issue bleeding slave on 245 with it in place.  why is it nearly impossible?  and why would you remove it?

Just a basic Hella relay as used for lights.   Nothing special. 

for square tail cars, there is another option for a trailer hitch.  repurpose the center bumper shock mount.  weld a plate and mount for hitch ball to end of it.  hangs right below bumper and could be made so it does not stick out to grab shins.  I used this concept for a towing eye on my track car.  see page 48  in build thread.

Diff replacement is pretty easy. 

the common water neck term refers to part that attaches to the head, not intake.  is that what you are refering to?

Clutch is not fully releasing.

wrong throw out bearing

air in the system

Clutch fork not on pivot pin or bent

Pivot pin damaged

Depends upon how long the straight is on the track you are driving on at that speed. 

It isn't about aero, it is about the suspension.  I could get to 125+ before T1 brake zone at Summit Point in my 02.  No real aero aids.  Rock solid.

5 hours ago, Leucadian said:

The bolts have blue loctite and are properly torqued.  

 

Am I overthinking it?

 

Yup.

Loctite and proper tq is all you need.   The wire is a decoration at that point. 

pictures?  what  caliper?

On 1/30/2024 at 10:26 PM, Furry Camel said:

I know you want to be right, especially since you get your information from the internet, but gather a thousand passenger car owners and ask them all, "Raise your hand if you have coil overs". Unless they are enthusiasts that have added aftermarket coil overs to their cars, you will get zero hands raised. Case closed.

hilariously bad analogy.  you could ask those same passenger car owners anything about their cars besides "where do i plug my phone in?"  and you will get the same blank stares.....  case wide open.

so you are saying if enough people say something that is wrong, that makes it right?  

kinda like using the abbreviation FLCA or LCA in reference to an E30.  there is no Rear control arm.  there is no Upper control arm  there is just a control arm.   it is a CA.  the "F" and "L" are not correct.

or.....calling a 2002 an E10  (rim shot....)

🙂🤣

back back on topic.....replace the bent strut or buy suspension parts with a smaller diameter spring so the top of the strut can move closer to the strut tower.

On 1/25/2024 at 7:13 AM, jgerock said:

Maybe it’s just me, but I have to press Activity, then all Activity to see stuff.  Prior to the recent change, I simply pressed one thing after logging in. See highlighted screen shot.  Yes, there are the row of icons on the bottom with words, but you have to look there.

instead of relying on buttons or menu choices each time, go to the page you want, then save it in your browser as a favorite.  that is what I do.  the "unread content" page is my default FAQ page.  when i go to my FAQ page bookmark, first thing i get is all the new content on the site.

PS - i don't bother with the mobile app.  the smart phone browser works just fine.