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daved.

Solex
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Everything posted by daved.

  1. dwdeba@kalcounty.com Still have the door?
  2. Re using a new 'rare earth' super magnet be aware that at higher tempertures they lose their charge. Not sure how high that is but it is worth looking at.
  3. Want to buy vacuum advance distributor. For a '71 but will take any good condition working unit. dwdeba@kalcounty.com
  4. So, what was it? I read the entire string only to find no conclusion! For the love of all that is decent, do tell! dwdeba@kalcounty.com
  5. Dizzy is where I started, nope. None of the valves are obviously loose but next step is to check carefully. Didn't check exhaust manifold but noise is like a valve, clicking. It is the suddenness that is baffling. The noise sounds like it is from the top end but can a rod bearing spin and be misleading?
  6. Just changed jetting. Went for test drive. Nice. One block from home suddenly noise that sounded a cross between a completely loose valve rocker and something hitting the fan blade. Nothing in the fan. Now have checked vacuum advance weights, fine. Compression fine in all cylinders. Timing chain tension fine. Didn't check valve lash b/c engine has only 6,000 miles on rebuild and noise was so sudden. Does not appear to be coming from area of oil pump (yard stick to ear test) No metal in oil. Could something gone down carb when changing jets? Don't believe so b/c all parts accounted for. HELP.
  7. OK, no bad dizzy advance weights. All valves look good tho not checked (noise was so sudden can't imagine one just went South), compression all w/in 125-128. Timing chain tensioner ok, chain nice and firm. Can't pinpoint noise but not at base of oil pump--where filter is threaded on. What gives??
  8. I will add that to the week end diagnostic session. In your case did the noise start abruptly? Mine was as if a hose became disconnected and dropped into the fan, and yes I have checked for disconnected hoses in the fan and have found none, sadly.
  9. Do tell, what happened? I have a similar situation. Engine has 6000 miles on pretty complete rebuild and a sudden onset of knocking/cladder. Vacuum shows a little flutter but not huge so can't tell if it's timing chain or sudden valve sickness. I am looking at your problem as a place to start w/ my own.
  10. There are indeed two leads to the condenser. One is grounded out to either a remote tach or back to the positive side of the coil. Either way to get the tach to work I needed to cut the second wire and leave only the lead going directly to the dash tach. Finito.
  11. That is what I thought, I have not yet purchased the coil. I extracted a promise from the NAPA the original specs are met or exceeded. They had to order one in. I am taking the specs from earlier posts to check it against the product they come up w/. As an afterthought I posted this, never know what pearls of wisdom one may miss. Thanks, dave
  12. So what is wrong about a plain Jane NAPA black stock replacement? No hype, no claims and looks like original.
  13. There is a lead w/ two black wires leading back to the dash that had been connected to the condenser, I assume this is the tach wire. Now, w/ condenser gone there is no male spade to connect this(these) to. I ran a wire from the negative side of the coil to them, engine would not start. Waiting to call petronix, living w/o a tach.
  14. OK, put in the new Petronix, works great. Problem is no clear tach lead to hook up to. Tach lead(s) used to attach at the now gone condenser spade. Made a new lead to go from the tach (two wire) lead (formerly attached to the condenser) to the second negative coil spade, right next to where the Petronix is now connected. Problem is when new tach lead is connected the car won't start. If I unhook the connection between the tach lead(s) and the negative coil spade car will start and purr. So what gives? '71 12 fuse. Dave
  15. Thanks, after a beer that is what I figured. I reversed the unit, checked the resistance before and after and it all looks fine. Now I just need to figure out what to run the tach wire to. Thanks for the help.
  16. Is is possible my resistor is installed backwards? Looking at the Petronix material it appears there should be two spade connectors on the side away from the coil side. Mine has two on the coil side but only one on the switch side. The wire to the coil is green/red, the wire to a relay on the opposite side is green. Second spade on the coil side is empty. No wiring diagram I have seen shows a green/red here but it is clearly original. This appears to be a new twist to the ongoing resistor unknowns. Car is a '71 twelve fuse.
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