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  1. Looking for a doner M10 For a good cause. to have apprentices learn the rebuild and swap process on. So long as it's not a total loss, I'll gladly take it. I live and work in the SW Subs of Chicago and will pick the block up if it's within an hour or two drive. Let me know; [email protected] Thanks and take care, Andrew
  2. I need a know working regulator, the one that sends to the carb or return line, depending on vac. Thanks [email protected]
  3. Got it, an easy one for me as I just discovered that my kickdown is switch frozen solid. Cleaning the filter worked just fine too. 3 cans of brake clean, and 1.8 qts later, she's runnin' up hill (without kickdown mind you).
  4. So at full throttle you want the shift cable at full extension (pulled out to full throttle) and then line up the eyelet?
  5. I got mine from our parts supplier at work for less than a 3rd of the cost as BAS. If all it takes is some cleaning I'll return it on Monday. I'm really hoping this will do the trick. I've got an over kill of fluid on hand too, some 10 quarts (over 5x what I need). If there is a real noticeable improvement after the first go, I'll likely do another fluid change or two over the next month or so to make certain things are as clean as they can be without resorting to a full flush (sometimes less is more). If not, I'll be going back to the 4 speed for a while.
  6. I emailed you back. Let me know if you didn't get it. Stay up
  7. Hi CD, Yeah, I checked it after running it for a few miles around the neighborhood. it was low and a little grey...metal in it? I'm going to change it this evening.
  8. All three that I've bought in the last year were from locals no more tha 8 miles from my home. Pretty impressive for small town America. I count at least 6 others who own them in the surrounding neighborhoods. You never know where they'll pop up. All of mine were around $1000....total for all 3.
  9. I found a happy place, it was too loose. It does still however have very little power on the up hills. The PO says that the trans was rebuilt shortly before the engine gave up on him. It looks pretty low on fluid. I'm going to top it to full tomorrow and see how that does.
  10. Hi all, The automatic I have here (which I just got firing again, thanks again all) is shifting at fairly low rpm. I can't tell how low yet as I'm just getting into switching the clock for a tach. It is shifting rather quickly though and has little power on even modest hills. Before getting into the trans I thought I'd ask and see if this is a linkage adjustment and if so, a too loose or too tight symptom. Thanks.
  11. Got it!! I replaced a few more things last night, and it looks to have indeed been the plugs being fouled (at least that was the last thing it was). It would account for the drop off of cylinders and no start there after. I did put new plugs in, but that was before switching the fuel system over. My thoughts are that the fuel was still a bit fouled which attacked the new plugs right off. I am not sure that is running rich. I'll look into that this weekend. For now though, things are running nice and smooth. Thanks to all for the advice and leads.
  12. Wires (Beldin) cap and rotor are all brand new. So is the coil. I started with a blue Bosche and by passed the resistor wire, now I have a B/A with an external risistor that I by passed to see if it would help matters, it didn't appear to. Jumped the B+ to the coil to eliminate the harness, still nothing. I'll check the cap, rotor and cap to coil wire for resistance and crud. Barring all that, I'll do it all again.
  13. Here's where I'm at; http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,304004/ I've come to believe that it's got to be weak spark. It's not blue. Rather a purple to yellow. Is it possible for the pertronix to deliver a weak spark when gapped correctly? Can it build up an internal resistance? I tried last night running a coil without a resistor to see if that might be it, still no firing. Grasping at straws is never any fun...
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