banditxmike

This is outstanding help!!!! Just another reason this FAQ is so helpful. Thanks very much everyone!!

Hi All, I need to replace the seal on my back window and would like to try it on my own. Does anyone have a video, pictures, etc... that would give me an idea of how it is done? Thanks in advance. Mike

Here is an article that helped me out when I was setting mine up for the first time. It is worth the read anyway. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

First- Thanks for the help and thoughts around this problem. As it turns out- I pulled a bonehead move when working on my Weber. I removed the choke shaft to reattach the actuator arm. When I put it back together I THOUGHT one of the screws that seemed to be stripped would stay put. Well, it did not and THAT is what the horrible noise was. So, the head is good enough to clean the welded on screw from and reuse. The valves look fine although I will do more of an inspection. The problem now is I don't feel good about reusing the piston. My question now is can I use a used piston or set of pistons without any problems. I checked the bore and it looks like it is not overbored. So I would be looking for a used set of standard sized pistons. Should I install used pistons? Any help would be great. Thanks, Mike

Did not think so either but just wanted to check in case I missed something else. I will start breaking things down more later this week. Would it be an accurate statement to say that nothing initially visible or audible in the bottom end while rotating the crank means the issue I was hearing is either mild or in the wrist pin area? Again, the motor was generally running no different than it was prior to the gawdawful noise. Thanks again for the replies. I can't tell everyone how much I have been able to learn from this FAQ.

The noise did not change if the clutch was in or out. When the knock really got loud was idling in the driveway. However, it was bad enough that I could hear it in the car while driving. The reason I asked about the pilot bearing is that is the only thing found so far to be a definite problem. I have not removed the timing cover or looked at any of the main bearings to see if there is anything else definite. The sound definitely seemed to be related to one cylinder and the engine was running pretty normal too. Thus the idea being something other than a valve/timing issue.

I know this is a dumb#%$ question but here is why I am asking. Yesterday morning, I went to get on the freeway and put my foot into it a bit. The car kind of stalled for a split second then ran normally but an audible ticking/knocking was going on. It was engine speed dependant. I really thought it sounded like an exhaust leak and I was really close to work so I kept driving. Once to work the noise was a bit louder. When I went to my car to go home, I checked to make sure I had enough oil and it was fine. No noise when I started the car so I am still thinking exhaust leak that might come back. Sure enough about half way home it came back. It got worse the closer I was to home. Once home, I let the car idle in the driveway hoping I could pinpoint the problem. The noise got REALLY loud and was making sounds that led me to believe something major failed. I did a quickcompression test and did not find anything specific. This seemed reasonable as the car was basically running fine other than the knock. Right, wrong or indiffereent, evertything pointed toward a failing rod or main bearing so I decided to pull the engine after looking through some posts here. Engine removal went pretty well except there is nothing obviously wrong in the bottom end. The only thing I have found so far is a bad pilot bearing. Is it possible for that to make that much noise or am I just looking in the wrong spot. Sorry for the long post but wantted to get you as much information as I could. I have done some searches on th esite and have found nothing specific to this so far. Thanks in advance for the help. Mike

Ordered one this morning. Thanks to Will and Brad for the help. This solution really seems to make sense. Just one more reason why I check this board at least once each day. Thanks again guys. Mike

I am looking for the heim joint used here. Checked the website but it is shut down. Anyone have the part # from McMaster Carr or another option? Thanks for the help.

Absolutely great advice from everyone. That last bit about the pressure bleeder not being enough was a question I had. It makes sense to me but I did not see anything in my searches that said that. Thanks very much to all.

I will double check the bleeder and get a pressure gauge. I did not let it go dry so that was not the problem. I am guessing your MC was just fine when you tried the gravity bleed?

I worked on my brakes this weekend. My general concern was the occasional foot to the floor under high pressure braking. There is what appears to be a slow leak where the MC meets the booster. What I did this weekend was change the wheel cylinders. When I took off the passenger side brake line, no fluid came out of the line leading me to believe there may have been an air bubble there. The driver's side cylinder had a pretty good leak. Once I got everything changed, I worked on bleeding the system which leads me to my question. I built a pressure bleeder based on several posts on this forum. Fluid did not flow through either of the back bleed screws with the bleeder. It flowed very slowly through the caliper bleed screws. I am not sure what pressure I had on the system but it seemed to be enough (I know I need a gauge.). So the question is: If I am using a pressure bleeder to bleed my brake system, and fluid flow is slow or nominal, does that imply a bad MC? Note: My wife was kind enough to help me with bleeding the rear and everything worked fine. Thanks for any help you have.

Thanks for the help everyone. I ended up going with the Tii cylinders from ATE. Ordered from Pelican Parts last night and they are already at my house this morning!!!! Awesome!! Thanks again everyone. This board is EXTREMELY helpful and a great area for information.

Thanks for the help everyone. I ended up going with the Tii cylinders from ATE. Ordered from Pelican Parts last night and they are already at my house this morning!!!! Awesome!! Thanks again everyone. This board is EXTREMELY helpful and a great area for information.

I am going to go through my braking system with new shoes, pads, etc... and am considering replacing my wheel cylinders. I looked at Pelican Parts and they have two brands. One is ATE and the other Metelli. The ATE cost is $34 or so and the Metelli is $10.25. Does anyone see a reason not to order the Metelli? I have added the link to the Metelli if you are interested. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=34-21-1-101-760-M695&catalog_description=Wheel%20Cylinder%20Rear%20%28%32%20Per%20Car%29%2C%20%32%30%30%32%20%20 One other question: If I can get the Tii Wheel Cylinder (17mm vs. 15mm from everything I have read on this forum) should I? I am running stock brakes up front with Centric Ceramic pads. Thanks in advance for the help.

You might want to check out the float level for the dieseling problem. I had similar issues and found the fuel was dumping in at idle making my idle rough and letting it diesel. I could see it dripping in above the butterflies at idle.

Might want to check stub axle and flange assembly along with rear wheel bearings. I just had to do the bearings on mine. As was previously suggested I put my car up on jacks and ran it in 4th gear. Heard nothing distinctive with flanges on but then heard drivers side wheel bearing with the flange pulled.

I am running a Mallory VIAL with Pertronix and can't get the Tachometer running. I have the adapter from Summit made for this ignition system (PN 29074). A look through previous posts have not helped me. Is anyone else running this ignition and able to get the tach to work? If so, can you tell me how you wired it? I have tried everything I can think of to no avail.

Does anyone know a local parts place that would have the 8 hole Guibo. I ordered one from Bav Auto and got a 6-hole. Probably an error ordering on my part. I have the car in the air and the old one out. Any help would be great!!

Thanks for the info. I will try and post pictures tomorrow. I will look at the mount for the shifter too. Not something I thought of. On another note, I attempted to look up this topic in the archives as I know there should be plenty there. I found very little. Any tips?

Alright, I did a little more research and found the mounts that are on the car. New question, how do I know if one is bad?