stone02

HI,

  do they come with the correct

lug nuts and washers? it looks

like the lugs nuts should be the

kind with the long shoulder that

protects the wheel stud and a

washer to go under the lugnut.

thanks

stone

hey,

  is this dolly still rolling around your place?

i would like to know the length and width.

i might be able to fit it onto a motor cycle

trailer for the ride home.

thanks

stone

just so you know, the output flange did not move that far up

and hit the underside of the tail housing. the opposing nuts

for the driveshaft side of the guibo were the offending part

which hit the tail housing. also, the tail housing can hold

as many as five (5) selector seals in the opening that is now

flattened. this was the best way to stop the leak years ago, it

was to just bang two or three seals into the tail housing and

as they went farther in they did a better job of sealing the shaft.

stone

Hey,

   many years ago, there was a business named

precision performance. the guy who ran it, cant

remember his name now, was a wizard.  he spoke

with me in depth about the cams and there best

operating situation for each. the only one that i

clearly remember was that a specific cam made

the stock Tii run much better. i at the time had the

opportunity to try his recommendation. he was

absolutely correct. the cam he spoke of was for 

1976 cars, most likely destine for CA at the time.

these cams appeared to be exactly the same unless

you took the time to do all the measurements. they

were spec cams but were much more accurate/

precise than other 49 state parts. the only way to

identify these cams is to look at the front face of

the cam inside the sprocket circle where a number

"5" is stamped on the face. over the years i have

searched and installed several of these in tii motor

rebuilds and the motors are always more powerful.

Pete McHenry was his name. just remembered.

just a little old knowledge that should be passed

on to the younger enthusiasts.

stone

Hey,while the motor is running, carefully remove

one plug wire from the spark plug at a time.

if the engine struggles then that cylinder is working.

if the engine does not change then that is the

cylinder that is not firing. it sounds like a cylinder

is not hitting because of no spark. if you hold the

ceramic end just close enough but not touching the

spark plug, it sometimes will begin to run better.

there is a chance that an injector is not working well.

i would not worry about the fuel injection until

the hi voltage stuff is guaranteed to be perfect.

out on a limb, one plug wire is shot.

stone

chris here from stone racing.

don"t believe the internet.

still working on 02's.

215fivetwozerosix718.

moving my warehouse in the

next few weeks. call me if

you would like to discuss your car

or any needs i can help with.

stone

Hi,

  how much did this cost?

stone

since you are using the newer AC

type of bracket then you can use the bolts.

the studs can be hard to get out because

they go thru the pump,timing cover,into the block.

clear the holes carefully before you use the bolts.

stone

HI,

  Just to add my thoughts.

Mike NC is right about each point.

i have only done two headliners and i

kept my hours logged. it took 32 hours

to move a good headliner from one car

to another, install time only, with sunroof.

the none sunroof car was a new panel

and it took 19 hours. i watched that video

from 32minutes until they stopped showing

the install. that was scary. i work from back

to front with both cars and for the sunroof

car i finish the hole before i get to the front

windshield frame. i actually use wood clothes

pins and binder clips with blue masking tape

on the inside of each to protect from marks and

damage. i also use the tape on the headliner

as a guide line when the clips come off for gluing.

all the correct edge protection for the sunroof

must be in place to protect the white liner.

finally i have never seen anyone try to install the

long rails and the center panel together, that looks

like a nightmare. get the liner in and set for two days

then glue, then leave it for two days, then install the

inner roof panel then finally the body panel.

it can be done like Mike says clean hands and time.

just like the the nuns used to say to me;

Be patient or become one!!

stone

so,

 the guy putting the lock strip is me.

you can put it in any time of year.

i have put them in during the dead

cold of winter. just the opposite in this

case, the sun was blazing down and

the body of the car was hot enough

to cook an egg. soak the strip in hot

water before you put it in. then while

you push that particular tool, it was the

first time i had every used the tool in the

video. smooth action and having the

strip rolled in the correct orientation

is most important. also, more than 100

front and rear glass make it easier.

just go slow and steady.

stone

Hi,

  i am interested in these.

please message me so that

we can arrange the details.

thanks,

stone

Happy New Year too.

Hey,

  a quick question. does the foot pedal assembly

have it's return spring in the bottom of the pedal

box? this may be just enough tension to keep

the pedal where it should be. i can not see

the spring below the pedal at the fulcrum point.

let us know.

stone

Korman was selling a few of these at

Vintage a few years ago.i bought more than

one and also received one from BMW NA.

i should go find them and sell them off.

stone

ps- i have no plans to find them or sell

if you convert the oil filter to

a spin on type. it is possible to

use the spin on filter for a 1987

thru 1991 325i in it's place. i do

this on my cars and for others

who ask for it. the only concern

is the short distance from the oil filter

to the steering box. if you run with

the battery in the trunk then this

change is a good choice.

stone

after many years of this hated job i have

come up with a easy way to remove the flexable

hose from the fixed line. i use an 11mm line wrench

on the body side and i use a 14mm crow's foot

line wrench to twist the hose loose from the body

line. i also cut the old hose in the middle so that

the flex line side can rotate easily. once the flex

line is off then the body side can be freed so that

replacement is easier.be extremely careful to not

break the body line because it cascades into

more repair problems than i want to describe.

good luck

stone

Hi,

  not sure if you want to travel to philadelphia

but if so i have engines and other parts.

feel free to call me for help or guidance.

35 years working on 2002's.  at least twenty

parts cars to pick from. motor on the floor

from a running car, $250. thanks

stone

late model cars have radiator side

stays with provision for a shroud.

but, i think that the smaller fan

is used with them.

stone

Hi,

  i would like to join in.

i have been looking for the getrag and

motor interface CAD also. i too want

to retain the drive line in full. could

you contact me about your CAD work

i would like to not start from scratch

if possible. thanks

stone

the fan in the picture is the smaller fan.

the 400 is the tropical fan.

when the fans get old they curl.

get a dealer new one. set it on the counter

at the parts department and do not accept

it if the center is supported by the blades

when the deeper cup side is up. i do not

have a picture of the 400.

stone

first,  get the bigger radiator cooling fan.

the bigger one seems to be more rigid

and will not flex forward as much.

now,  when a core is installed, the sides must be

re-soldered to the end tanks and core, once

they are assembled and tested. it is at this

time that the sides must be pushed far enough

rearward on  the radiator so that the entire

core is pushed as far forward (away from the fan)

as possible. this has been a problem for me

a few times since i have been installing curt's

radiators for 15 years. i still have two cores

hidden away for me to use on my cars.

if it is done right, the core is hard against the

nose panel. i have even clearanced a few 

nose panels to get extra room.

stone

if the car is an automatic, then what you

have there is correct because you need the

secondary axial shaft for the downshift

function. is there a cable attached to the

rod that goes from the fire wall to the carb?

that would be an even better indication

that the car is automatic equipped.

more pictures from farther back and clearer.

stone

if as you describe, the car is NOT moving, then the

drive shaft should not be making noise. if the car is

running and sitting still, and now you press the clutch pedal

down to the floor and wait 10 seconds or put it in gear

and still not moving then i would suspect the noise

is coming from the internal gears of the transmission.

the gears turn when the clutch is released and it is in

neutral. you need to wait several seconds for the natural

drag on the components to stop the gears from

continuing to turn or put it in gear and all the gears

except for the input shaft should stop rolling.

if the roar goes away then it is the trans. put in redline MTL

to help with the sound reduction.

Al,

   i would like to come see it when i pick up the 524td.

maybe we can make a deal for both. let me know and see if

you can get the title too.

stone

it is the horn relay.

the replacement is usually not

round or as nice as the vintage

one you have. it can be opened

and reattached to the bracket.

stone

i do not know a price at this time.

wait and see if a few people answer,

like markmac. but, i do have a customer

who is actively looking for this set up for

his race car that just won its class at

Watkins Glen last weekend. please

contact me if you would like to be in

contact with him. thanks

stone