stone02

Hey,

   i am over in Northern Liberties.

i have a tote full of distributors. take yours

out and bring it over and we will just fix

it.

stone

215fivetwozerosix718

Hi,

   i would pull the steering column back up and install

the subframe first. get the bottom clamp on the box

installed fully before you put the column in. the column

has a good amount of play and it will all go back in.

this is the only way to get the column, and covers, and

horn-ring to steering wheel contact to be correct.

stone

Hi,

   your problem lies in the fact that the body shop

pressed down on the roof panel while they were doing

the body work. this was shown to me by a body shop

that produce's senior winners consistently.  the roof

front edge needs to be supported while the body work

is being done. what my shop does was copy the curve of

the moving panel in wood with routed tracks in it for the

metal edge and hold it up. my recommendation would be

for you to take the car back and have them re-arch

the roof correctly.

stone

so,

  i think that this is a very simple leak.

when the intake manifold that was removed and

not reused, was put somewhere for later, does

it have three distinct gaskets on number 2,3,4?

if you are not 150% sure that if you were

to take a sharp object to all the surfaces, on the

manifold and then check the cylinder head in the

same fashion, then my $1 bet is that even though

you swear that it looks like all the old gaskets

are gone, one is still there and stacked.

  when the manifold is installed on new gaskets

two are facing out and one is reversed and after

only a few heat cycles, they bond to the surface.

removing them is VERY hard to do. i use a knotted

wire wheel and a custom made scraper to dig off

every gasket, even on the old part. that way next time

i have the parts in hand two gaskets do not end up

stacked and leaking. let us know or post very clear

close-up pictures of all four intake to head mounting

points.

stone

Hi,

  i have piles of glass. shipping

is the risk but not too serious.

$50 for the window, clear if that

is what you need. shipping cost

is on you. let me know if you are

interested. i have plenty of time

as my job is now work from home.

stone

phila pa

hi,

please post a few pictures of the bumpers.

i am in philly and would like to consider them

for a project i have. or text them.

stone

215 fivetwozerosix 718

does this wheel have the horn pad also.

it is not seen in the pictures and is not

the same as a bus wheel style pad.

that split tube grommet is for the feed

tube were it goes thru the inner fender

support about 10-12 inches above the

clutch master cylinder. it has no function

in the fluid part of the system at or below

the clutch master cylinder. there is a little

two pronged fold-over type tubing stay

that it is used in.

stone

good evening,

   has this been resolved with anyone yet.

i just saw this post because i have been

avoiding the FAQ just for this reason.

i even had to wait just now for the debug thing

to cycle thru and then it would allow me

to type this reply. i hope that it is resolved

soon, i miss using the FAQ but i have no

ability to suffer thru the spinning wheel

of madness.

thanks

stone

i wrote up a new topic and wanted to add a video to it.

i am unable to figure out how to attach a picture or video.

i tried the search but it showed me "how to" everything

but attach something to a new post. i have an OLD

mac book pro. any reasonable help would be appreciated.

stone

hi,

  that part was also produced in plastic.

i have rarely seen the metal one.

i have many of the plastic ones if you

are interested. there is also on for the

door handle and for the vent window.

they are all different sizes.

stone

WOW,

  well that looks to be the wiring for the right side

column switch. it is possible that the previous "parts changer"

used a part from a CS or Bavaria. also it is possible that

the car has had an intermittent wiring done to the wiper

system. not real familiar with the conversion. so that said,

the end not wrapped is supposed to mount in the hole in the

rusty column bracket and a female plug containing male

prong would push into it. it looks bad but if it all works

properly and the connections are soldered, i would let it

go until you have concerns. find good used column

replacement parts and then do a full change over to

eliminate that when or if it fails. i have the body side wiring

if you need that too.

stone

hey,

  i ask about the size back a while and let it slip.

if the other guy does not take it at $100, call me and

i will come pick it up ASAP. give him a chance first.

chris

215 520 6718

if you want water free gas then you need to put

aviation fuel in the tank. it has no water because

it goes into an environment where the temp is

well below freezing. even in the smallest amounts

it would crystallize and clog carb jets. we use it

in the race car and buy it from small airports

that are required to drain off fuel from their

storage tanks for safety.

so, put jack stands under the car to hold up the back end on both

sides of the car. also put wheel chocks on both front wheels both

front and back. now with the car up in the back, release the hand

brake and put it in neutral. if the drums is not loose then bang it

back onto the hub. do not worry about the alignment yet. get the

center hub to turn by rotating the opposite wheel a little at a time

until the holes are all lined up. put a wheel stud onto the threads

or reinstall the tire and tighten. the drums can take a good hit

but if hit enough and with enough trying you can break the drum.

it is very hard to do so.

if you are actually committed to changing the rear

soft lines then cut the hose so that it can spin and

hold the body side so it does not twist. use an 14mm

crows foot line wrench, the kind that can be attached

to a long extension 3/8". then it will come off. DO

NOT LET THE BODY SIDE LINE TWIST. a little heat

can help the connection break loose.

stone

it takes about 21-25 hours per side to properly

replace the entire shock tower, not just a patch

repair. i have done many and the car is always

solid after it is done and most people can not

even tell that it was done. it will not lower the

value of the car. it most likely will increase the

value because the work is not necessary for the

next owner.

stone

cant find it on ebay.

could you post the listing please

or did it sell?

stone

for this you will need a spray bottle with

just water. while the car is running and hot,

spray the coil at the end where the wires are.

just lightly first then more to see if it stumbles

stalls. if you do this in the evening or after dark

you may even see where the sparks might be

occurring. usually the high-voltage jumps to the

black single wire and to ground. if this happens

then start by cleaning around the coil top and or

replacing some of the connections or the cap to

coil wire. do this when the motor is good and hot

so that it can dry out on its own if you do not have

all the parts to fix it then.

stone

Hi,

   so just a few days ago i re-registered 2782913,

after a 33 year slumber.  it was taken apart in 1985-

1986 and never reassembled until i got it about 4

years ago. shake down time soon to come.

good luck with the sale. post the tii pictures so

we all can see.

stone

how wide is the bolt thru that goes

on the engine side? is it possibly

from a tii?

thanks

stone

HI,

  is there a hole between the four bolt holes

in the block? if there is then you need the

air pump bracket or the cover with the

dipstick that goes there. ask for it in the parts

wanted. it is not a rare piece. i probably have

one but would not know where to look for it as

i recently sold my storage space.

stone

does anybody have any knowledge of this car?

or is someone in milwaukee to see it?

a customer of mine is diving in to the deep end

and way to quickly it escalated to this.

https://usclassifieds4all.com/details.php?id=10986

thanks,

stone

so i stand corrected. thank you.

i put the fork on and then give it a

whack with my fist when i compress

the slave cylinder. maybe the spring

slips over the ball pivot and then

behind the shoulder. i will have to go

look at a trans to see if that happens.

the rubber washer just retains grease

for the pivot to lube the fork. i don't know

it all and i do learn new stuff all the time

thanks for the picture and the education.

stone

number one is correct.

compress the bearing into the

bell housing and then wire tie the

slave cylinder in the compressed

position. this will keep both parts steady.

then put the trans in. this way has been working for

me for the last 30 years.

stone