stone02

if the tank does not fit because the corner closest to the tail light is round, you have a tank from a 73 or maybe a 72. the area that you want to cut is not a concern if you will be using a chrome bumper and not the dampener style bumper. you will be doing a substantial amount of metal removal on the trunk floor to make it fit. post some pictures of you concern so we can see it. additionally you will need to cut four large holes in the reinforcement to be able to put the hardware on the bumper during install. you should do this before mounting the tank.

I would like to buy the ones you

have left. they will fit on my 1966 R27

gas cap too. please contact me.

215 fivetwozerosix718

I can come get them at any time.

thank you

this oring should plump back up once it gets a dose of

fuel on it. as for a replacement, look up H&R fuel inj on 

Facebook and contact them for the correct piece. 

ADDITIONALLY, that return valve is also seated on an aluminum

crush style flat washer. if you took the valve out and the washer

got unseated or fell out of the pump head, no amount of tightening

will stem the flow of the pump pressure at that point and

fuel will just go around the threads of the valve and pass the oring

seal. you will not find the washer listed or shown unless you

have the Nov 1988 tii register news letter. and the picture on

page 9 sucks but the washer is discernible. or take my word

for it and accept that I have suffered with this mess several

times.

go to the web site "etrailer.com" and search for short protected

trailer wiring. this unit is designed to not draw power from the car harness

but rather from a dedicated battery connection. this unit can be used

for trailers that go into water or that get regular damage and repair

of lites. I use this on several tow rigs. it resets itself when you turn off 

the vehicle and then reset. 

if you are going to rust repair in these areas, the best thing to do is remove 

both of the trims marked in color and also the glass. it it very easy to get them

all out and then the rubber strip under the lower trim comes

off. 1 unscrew the latch,  2 remove the vertical trim edge on the B pilar,  

3. open the window and prop with a 2x4 to hold glass out 3".

4. pry out the rubber vertical seal to see behind it,  5. remove four very

small screws under the rubber, it does not come off at this time as it holds

the glass too.  6. pull window out,  7  remove rubber window seal that goes

around top, back, bottom of glass, 8  both of the trims have aluminum rivets

which hold them in place, slice them off with a cold chisel and hammer,  

9  do the horizontal first and then the vertical.

under the vertical you will find perfect example of the original color if the

car was not repainted. it should take you less time to do this work than it 

took me to type it with two fingers.

good luck and update with pictures.

stone

Hi,

  I am in Philly and would like to buy several.

I will pick them up.send me a message so we

can connect.

tractors are red and

crops are green!!

IH please

that is the injection pump support bracket and captured

behind it would be the pipe support noted above in the 

blowup picture. the picture of the blow up contains both

types of coolant line for carb and tii.

that bracket is important for vibration dampening in the

pump area.

the one on the white car was made by Zender.

Hi,

    this used to be a regular thing for my customers when they all carried

tool boxes and fluids in there daily drivers. I did some research and

found that the MOOG CC 827 spring would lift an empty 2002 in the 

rear about 1/2 to 1".  the spring comes with a small pigtail that

needs to be trimmed away and the end made smooth on an

angle to sit in the spring seat on the arm. it worked well and

I did this for many cars. you can throw all your junk back in

the trunk and get a nice ride height. make sure the spring

pads are in good condition.

stone02 

Mike,

  did you miss attaching the web address??

if you do not want to separate, I do want both.

please let me know.

hi, 

  are these left and right side parts?

would you be willing to package and ship?

I would be paying the shipping cost.

thanks

this problem was a head scratch for me a few years ago. 

there was a period of time when many cars came to me 

all needing the flex lines replaced. some cars still had the

original hoses in the front and back. the fronts have a ring

on them indicating the date of manufacture. the rears did

not appear to but were just encrusted with years of road 

dirt. so, I figured out how to remove the rear hoses for 

replacement. as they are not going to be reused, I just 

cut the hose against the coupling and put a deep 14mm

socket on them. this worked okay but the socket was

still at an angle so I tried another tool. I now use a crows 

foot on the flexible end and hold the body line side still with

a 11mm line wrench. I have been doing this for several

years now with no problems or stripped fitting. once the 

flex end is off you can work the fitting so it turns on the 

steel line and then thread it all back together.

good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

stone

many years ago there was a sage man who knew his tii stuff,

his name was Pete McHenry. some of you who knew him would 

know he was a bit of a wizard with BMW conversions. he told 

me about a factory cam that can be installed into a tii that makes

it run better and smoother. I have installed three of these in 

customer cars and all reported a better response, performance

and drivability. so, what cam is it?

the cam comes from the 2002 for California from a 1976 car. the only 

way to identify this cam is from to front face that shows thru the

upper cam gear. this cam will have a number "5" stamped in the 

face. I had not seen one of these for a few years, but by luck,

I found one at the Vintage for $20. it is already in the process of

being installed into a rebuilt motor. Pete explained to me that 

the cam was more precise to meet specs, and was just a little 

different degree for the lobe separation. he continued to explain

why it was a better cam but I was lost to all the info he spoke to me.

if you can find one you could have it inspected by a cam company

compared to a stock piece. maybe they will be able to re-explain

why it is better.

to the group. the post says to email the person but I do not see an email.

I sent a message thru theorem but wanted to know if I was missing a way

to email thru the forum. also does anyone know if the car is still for sale.

thanks

stone

I have several core drive shafts. I may have a few from cars that are still

usable. I am located in Philadelphia. it says ridge wood ny is that on

the lake or in Queens? I could have one rebuilt and ship it to you. 

message me back

I have no social media or website.

the Facebook thing was an attempt

by my daughter to try facebook.

people find me by asking others or looking

on this forum. I have been servicing 2002's

since 1983.

215 fivetwozerosix718 text first

thank you for your kind words. even though it

rained, it was fun to get a little car work in. I 

hope to see your car at my shop, and even

more I hope that other people from FAQ get

to see your beautiful car. the guys at Sports

Car Restoration did an amazing job and you 

should show it off.

thanks,

chris or stone02

the "fuzz" is part of the sunroof cable. it carries some small 

amount of lubrication, and keeps the rail that the cable runs

in clean and clear. additionally the fuzz is an anti rattle component

because it supports and helps the cable float in the rail. 

clean the rail as best you can. Wurth brand spray works very 

well and does not stain the headliner. use the PTFE sunroof 

cassette spray, not too expensive but works the best.

stone

auto correct or spell check does not like"tii" so it changed the spelling. sorry

a bare block weight's about 100 LBS and the rotating assembly without the flywheel weight's about 60 LBS. the picture seems to indicate that at least one of the blocks is for a tii. how many are for Wii and are any of them usable? I have two customers that blew engines in the past month at the track and I am looking for blocks and parts. 

stone02

does the key turn In the the ignition/

did you put it in upside down?

you might try a few drops of 3 in 1 oil on the key.

is the steering wheel able to turn?

more info or a picture of the key in the

off position please.

stone 

this does sound like something a newer shop would say. I have the luck of being 

associated with a shop 30 miles away that does just this thing, but they also have 

a list of recommendations that the customer can call. I know that I am at the bottom

of there list because I told them to put me there, and I usually only hear from owners

that have cars that are from 1991 and older. once they come around to me they are

usually happy to be a new and returning customer. I love the old stuff and I definitely

do not charge enough per hour. this is a good format for me.

stone

I think the saying goes, 90% of your carb problems are electrical.

might have it backwards but they can both be applied. you said

you opened the hood and touched all the obvious connections.

did this include the distributor wire from the fire wall to the dist? 

I have seen this many times on the car where the wire from the

body to the distributor is broken inside the covering and or the

crimp at the female end connection. with the motor running try to

extend the wire away from the distributor. the strands inside the

sleeve break and when the motor leans away from it's normal

position. then when you press the clutch, the motor returns to the 

resting position and the connection is re-made. just one of those

repairs I have seen many times. I even drove a car backwards

3 miles home to learn this. let us know the solution.

stone