tomorrowcalling

I'll take some pictures tonight

I'm a member of the Pukekohe Car Club, We'll have "Inky" out in the Maramarua Forest on Saturday 28th for a Day /Night rallysprint

see http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/highlight,/

Sorry for the delay, Attached is a bit of a drawing I knocked up to give to the spring maker, I also took along an E30 spring & a 2002 spring and explained what I was doing. Since then I've had a coil taken off and the spring reset to give a higher spring rate. Currently the wire size is 15.98 mm, The OD of the spring is 117 mm, there are 9.25 active coils giving a spring rate of about 250 lb/ inch. This gives an effective spring rate at the wheel of 176 lb/ inch

Yes - see http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/ Scroll towards the end of the thread

I recommend that we go to triangular wheels - 25% less bumps than square!

Get an adjustable bias valve (tilton) from Cardwell racing and install it in the line that runs to the rear. If your car doesn't have a LVV cert then put the valve somewhere where the WOF inspector is unlikely to see it. If you don't care about such things then install it somewhere where you can adjust it whi8le you're drving

From where I started (A bare shell that I was cutting rust out of and installing cage into). it was a simple solution which give me disk brakes and a strong diff for which LSD's and lower ratios (4.45) are much more readily available. I agree it wouldn't make a lot of sense for a daily driver, but my car is a club rally car and I expect to break stuff. I can walk into a dozen breakers yards in Auckland and buy E30 parts, ask for 2002 or E21 parts and I'd get laughed at. Plus the fabrication required to install an unmodified E30 subframe wasn't that difficult.

IIRC it's 25 mm a side. You probably could correct with a different offset, You'd need to be careful with caliper and shock clearances. But with flares there is plenty of room.

Yes - seehttp://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/ Scroll towards the end of the thread

Yes - seehttp://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/ Scroll towards the end of the thread

Ditto on the bad reverse light switch, I went through 3 fuses before I connected blown fuses with putting the car into reverse.

It's possible, if it's worth it depends on your application. It made sense for me as at the time E21 LSD's were about 3x the price of E30 LSD's. However the price of E30 LSD's has gone up locally since the boy racers discovered E30's see the following thread http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290352/

(nt)

As promised disassembled pictures

I did not know that! Actually I've never seen an auto 2002 - I'll start to have a bit of a scout around for one. Does anyone know if I could use the auto bell housing out of any of the following M10 engined cars? E12 520 E21 318 E30 318 early

Doesn't help with that 2nd to 3rd gap, I was once told that your final gearing should be such that you reach maximum revs in top gear at the end of the longest straight - by that measure I should really have 4.9 or 5 ratio diff!

Hi, Currently Im running a 242 4 speed box (Ratios 3.764 2.020 1.320 1.000) with a 4.45 ratio diff in my club rally car. 3rd & 4th gear are quite well suited to the type of events I do, but 2nd is really a bit low. This coupled with the fact the the box is somewhat past it's use by date has had me looking at alternatives. So far my options appear to be, 235/5 5 speed (2002) Ratios 3.368 2.160 1.580 1.240 1.000 Pro's Straight forward fitment, nice set of ratios Con's Rare as rocking horse sh*t!, Have a reputation as being fragile Price ?? - I've never seen one up for sale. 245/4 BN 5 speed (E21) Ratios 3.680 2.000 1.330 1.000 0.810 Pro's Straight forward fitment Cons Somewhat hard to find here in New Zealand, I guess If I looked hard enough I could find one, No real improvement in ratios. Price ?? 240 5 speed (E30) Ratios 3.720 2.020 1.300 1.000 0.800 Pro's Fitment should be Ok, there's the issue with no speedo drive but as I run an E30 diff I'm sort of part way there, Cheap Con's No reall improvement in ratio Price probably a couple of hundred NZ$ for the box Metric Mechanic Type 242 CR Ratios 2.981 1.617 1.330 1.000 Pro's Straight forward fitment, nice set of ratios, don't need to modify drive shaft Cons Somewhat expensive by the time it's shipped out to NZ, Price NZ$ 6200 Get some gears cut locally Ratios 2.981 1.617 1.330 1.000 Pro's Straight forward fitment, can choose ratios, don't need to modify drive shaft Con's The learning curve could be very very steep, Price $NZ 2500-4000 Toyota W55 (Celica) Ratios 3.570 2.060 1.380 1.000 0.850 A local company (Conversion Components) does a conversion kit to fit a W50 series box to 2002's and other classic cars Pro's If I go with the kit, fitment should be straight forward. Toyota boxes have a reputation of relaibility even with much more power engines than what mine is likely to output. Cons No real impovement in ratios although Quaffe do a close ratio gear set for around 2800 English pounds, Conversion components offer a close ration box but it's my understanding that the ratios are only "close" compared to the stock "wide" ratio box Price $2768 + tax Ford Type 9 5 Speed (Sierra) Ratios 3.656 1.970 1.370 1.000 0.820 It looks like this box will fit into the tunnel Ok and I could probably cut up one of my dead 232 boxes to make a bell housing. Many Quaffe gear sets are available for this box starting at around NZ$ 2050 (Ratios 2.390 1.690 1.210 1.000 0.930) They also turn up on local online auctions on occasion. Pro's The stock box improves ratios a little bit; Good upgrade path. Con's Its Ford!, I'm sort of on my own in putting it together although I do know of a guy who has done the same sort of thing to a 4AGE powered Starlet instead of buying the TRD parts to upgrade the toyota box. I may need a new hole for the gear stick. Price A stock box can be had for NZ$150, I may be able to talk a friend into giving me one, A bunch of time & calling in of markers. *edit - It seems I had the Type 9 & T5 gearbox confused in the original post (both were used in the Sierra) the Type 9 is easier to get here in NZ and has ratios available from quaffe* So are there any other options I should be looking at?. I have access to a small but well equipped machine shop, so milling, turning & welding operations aren't a problem.

I don't believe so - I run either 14" E30 bottlecaps (for gravel) or 15" minilites for tarmac. There isn't a lot of clearance on the 14".

Basically because E30 parts are a lot more common in NZ than E21 parts. I would have preferred to use AP calipers but I'm on budget and those were the parts I had.......

Disclaimer - all the numbers are from memory you'll need to check Drill & Tap the hub on a 100mm PCD (M10 from memory) to match the holes in the E30 disk. (you can see the ends of the bolts in these holes in one of the pictures) Make 4 (per side) spacers 15.6mm OD x 10mm ID x 7mm (the thickness of the E30 disk hub). The spacers go into the holes in the disk to sleeve them down to the the size of the threaded holes in step 1. Make up a stepped backing disk, this needs an ID to match a 2002 disk, a small spigot to match the E30 disk and a 4 x 100 mm PCD pattern of 8mm holes. The idea is the E30 disk is sandwiched between this plate and the hub and it also centralizes disk on hub. The E30 caliper has a different hole pitch to a 2002, I cut of the top rear lug and made a boomerang shaped bracket from 3/8" plate. One end of this bracket picks up on the bottom rear lug and the other on the top front lug. There is also an additional M6 bolt so that when I remove the caliper mounting bolt, the bracket stays in position The caliper is then mounted by a bolt passing through the bottom rear lug and a bolt passing through a hole on the bracket. The stock backing plate has been cut away so that just the bearing shield remains. If you're really keen I'll pull the disk off and take some more photos but I won't get a chance to do that this weekend as I've a rallysprint to compete in.

If you look closely you can just see that I've cut the end of the lower control arm off and replaced it with a rod end, This let me increase the front track and camber but then that increased the castor and made the tyre rub on the front of the guard, I then had to made the castor adjustable to compensate, so the actual castor is not much more that stock

No you don't have to modify the E30 subframe, but you have to fabricate new pick up points forward and out side the 2002 stock ones. I welded in about a 1 1/2" boss and then used a very long bolt passing through the subframe & boss to a nut on the inside of the car. You also have to modify the sill to get enough width and as you end up with the track being about 50mm wider, flared guards are required. You may have noticed that I've modified the bottom arms to have rod ends, by the time I got the amount of camber I was after the front track ended up about the same as the back. Other notes. The rear springs are custom made, I've also moved the top spring mount forward and out a bit and extended the bump stop mount. The packers you see are for adjusting the ride height/ rear camber as its a rally car the ride height is quite high. The rear shocks are for a RAV4, I use a sleeve on the bottom mount to adapt from (IIRC) 12mm to 16mm. The top mounting hole was moved inboard a bit so the shock cleared. I really should have fabricated a complete new rear shock tower to give a bit more room and to get it to line up better.

Cut the stock rod in half and had a work colleague spin the parts in a lathe and machine a thread on each part. (he had a lathe big enough get the angled part into the chuck) The center part is a piece of 4140 bar drilled and tapped. (I'm now the owner of a M14 x 1.5 Left Hand Tap)

As promised rear