tomorrowcalling

Right hand drive has never been a problem for me, left hand drive however is another story .

If you're in the Auckland area you can drop by and have a look at my 2002, I use the e30 318 inlet manifold

That would be great, We must live only a few kilometers apart, I'm on the northern side of Pukekohe (Paerata). I'll email you. Yes I've voted - What's the saying - "Vote early & vote often"

Are you in the Auckland region?, if so I have a proposition for you. It turns out I've never driven a stock 2002, how would you like to swap drives for half an hour or so? My 02 below

Here's a picture http://www.budgetmotorsport.co.nz/clubsport-photos/photos.php?galleryid=116&page=11

Just for the record we finished 49th from 52 finishers out of 75 starters. We had a trouble free run but I was a bit off the pace all day, basically driving more conservatively than perhaps I need to. On the other hand all I needed to do to the car at the end of the day was to wash it, unlike a large number of other competitors

Anyone going to be in the Raglan or Waitomo areas of New Zealand on Saturday 22nd? Keep an eye out for us, we're seeded 58 in this years rally. http://www.pbmrally.co.nz/ http://www.pbmrally.co.nz/2009PBMEntryList11.8.09.pdf

According to my wiring digram it should work with a Tii. Please note that this mod only gives you a push button start, The other positions on the ignition switch still have to work. I'd be inclinded to use a piggy back connectors on the #30 & #50 terminals rather than cut into the wiring, that way it's easy to undo. http://www.mcmaster.com/#piggyback-terminals/=28j2ls

If you just want to engage the starter, connect a push button (momentary "ON") between the red (terminal 30) and black wire (terminal 50). You can disconnect the black wire from the existing switch if you like but the red must remain connectedothereise the car won't run

Try connecting a voltmeter between the battery -ve and the engine block. Engage the starter and observe, if you see more than a few fractions of a volt while cranking then you have a problem with your main earth connections. With the amount of amps that a starter draws even factions of ohms can be an issue, this is another way of measuring the earth resistance that can be more sensitive than just using an ohmmeter.

It's not so much the rain, but the mud. I spent 4 hours waterblasting the car on Sunday after a day out racing in the forest.

Increasing the the length of the bottom arms will increase the front track and give you a reasonable amount of negative chamber. although you may have to increase the length of the tension strut and sway bar to keep the castor correct.

I went with an E30 drive shaft and had gearbox end changed. From memory they had to add length to the front part of the shaft. Note you have to remount the center bearing further back in the car but it seems that the setup is more tolerant of center bearing alighnment. Edit - I've just compared an E30 shaft flange to an E21 diff flange it looks like they should bolt up fine

Ya got no choice but to go forward and fix your car since ya got that sweet tat! The only "challenge" your gonna deal with is the ignition. The 318i distributer and camshaft have different drive gears so the distributer spins the other way. This means you cant put your old distributer in there unless you also swap the cam. John I've never had to deal with this issue, but if a later injected M10 is going into an '02, it seems like removing the drive gear from a 2002 distributor and installing the E21/E30 drive gear would be the quick & easy solution to running an early distributor on a later motor that's going to be converted to carburetion - LOTS easier than swapping cams! After looking at the distributors from both M10 powered cars (320i and '02), it doesn't LOOK like there's any in difference between them other than the gears, but since I've never attempted swapping gears between units it's all conjecture on my part....... Anybody know if there's any reason this won't work? No it won't work - the distributor will retard instead of advancing as the rpms increase. You may get it to run but it will run very poorly. Also there's the spiral groove on the dizzy shaft which is intended to pump oil back down the shaft into the engine. If the dizzy is going the wrong way it tends to pump oil out and on to the exhaust. I'd recommend grabing the whole E30 ignition system if possible

I've now done several hillclimbs, some bentsprints and a rally sprint with the Type 9 box. At the moment it's still running stock internals as by request for funding for Quaffe parts has been denied (Silly little things like mortgages). Is it the best stiffing box I've ever used ?. No - but it's better than the nearly 40 year old Getrag I was using. Also second gear is slightly taller than the getrag 1.97 versus 2.02 and third is slightly lower 1.37 versus 1.32. Not huge differences I grant you but it does seem to make a difference. Overall I'm happy with it. Here are some fitment notes for anyone who's interested For any one else considering a non BMW gearbox swap, the trick seems to be to start with an automatic bell housing. I used one from a M10 powered E30 318 and then machined up an adapter plate to go between the bell housing and g'box. In my case the throw out bearing is a Sierra one, using a modified Sierra clutch fork and E30 slave cylinder. The slave cylinder setup is similar to an E30 although in hindsight it would have been easier but more expensive to use an axial slave cylinder / bearing. The clutch is a custom 228mm, there's a company in Auckland that can provide you anything you want in terms of diameter and center spline in 24 hours for not too much more than a stock clutch. The drive shaft is a modified E30 one using a sierra coupling which is somewhat larger than a 2002 one. Also in hindsight I should have considered a one piece drive shaft, the sierra output shaft slides and sits much further back in the car which may of made it feasible. Tunnel mods were limited to moving the gear stick hole back a bit, some strategic dents and some new mounting points. Again in hindsight about 25mm more height in the tunnel would have been better. Other notes - the slave cylinder covers the oil fill hole, when I build up a box with quaffe bits I'll see about putting a filler on the other side - oh and a drain plug.

The owner informs me that they're off a FWD toyota. He runs spacers to correct the offset

Hey man what kind of wheels are on the white '02?? Are they 15's? I Love how they are so similar to minilights, but different... just what I've been looking for for the tii... Shoot me an email please! _Zac Sorry I don't know - The inka is mine, I meet the guy with the white car at the event - I have his email address somewhere I'll try and find it. Looking at the picture they may be the same as the ones I use - I'll dig out the supplier when I have a free moment

(nt)

The white one is a track / targa rally car, the Inka is set up for gravel rallying (See the next picture)

Have you checked the disk run out with a DTI?

I would like to add in my case the coupler is about 50mm away from the exhaust (RHD) hence my concern about temperatures. Also it seemed to me that the stock coupler is stiffer in the lateral direction than the urethane one. The spring loading the steering column seemed to pull the urethane coupling quite out of shape. I would not use the urethane steering coupler. Urethane certainly does degrade, and they are not reinforced like the rubber joints are, so when they start to tear you are in deep sh*t pretty fast. Early this month there was a thread that included the following: Date: 2-2-09 04:04 From: tomorrowcalling in Pukekohe, New Zealand I've done a bit of research that suggests that the safe working temperature of nitrile rubber can be up to 40°C higher than polyurethane (although it depends on the exact composition). So I'm going back to a stock coupling, I did two and half seasons on a 30 year old stock coupling and five events on a urethane one. It also turns out that the local dealer has one for about the same price as what it will cost me to import another urethane one from the US.

Probably, there's not a lot of room so exhaust wrap may be an alternative

Nobody ?. I've done a bit of research that suggests that the safe working temperature of nitrile rubber can be up to 40°C higher than polyurethane (although it depends on the exact composition). So I'm going back to a stock coupling, I did two and half seasons on a 30 year old stock coupling and five events on a urethane one. It also turns out that the local dealer has one for about the same price as what it will cost me to import another urethane one from the US.

Is anyone with a right hand drive 2002 using a urethane guibo?. If so have you had any problems with it?. Why I ask, is that the one in my rally car failed just before I went out on to the local racetrack. I looks to me as if the urethane has been softened by the heat from the exhaust enough so that the studs pulled througth it. The unit hasn't been in the car that long and has had limited use so it's not like it's worn out.

How about the V160 from a Toyota Supra?