tomorrowcalling

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I'd like it to be as accurate as possible, I like the thinking of bringing the studs back a bit. I also had the idea of drilling and tapping the hub with m5 bolts with really short heads. Maybe space them in between each stud? 

That's what I did for my 2002 rally car - works great

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Tomorrowcalling in NZ did a Ford type 4 speed

Actually a Type 9 5 speed, with quafe close ratio kit

Hi Everybody,

Ireland Engineering will be now organizing the manufacture and sale of the RHD kits.   It's going to be at least 4 weeks before they're available so keep an eye on Jeff's website for further announcements

Cheers

Craig

6 hours ago, jireland2002 said:

I was saving this for later when we had a final date for delivery.  BUT --  We have already contracted with them to manufacture the CR gears for the left hand drive steering boxes.  We supplied a good sample for them to work with.  I'm guessing we should have kits in about 30 days.  That's probably why they can do the right hand drive as it is probably just a mirror image of the left hand. 

Sorry about stealing your thunder,  I approached the manufacturer about 2 years ago about making right hand drive replacement internals. At the time they weren't able to help. I was somewhat surprised when they contacted me saying they were now in a position to help.

Yes, it will fit in a RHD non-QR steering box housing. It would be for RHD boxes only.

However it's likely the manufacturer could make a similar kit for LHD but there would be a separate minimum order quantity

Hi All,

I have a manufacturer who is willing and able to make the worm gear & roller to create a RHD version of the LHD quick steering box.  (same ratio)

Cost will be around US$400 + shipping & taxes

Minimum order quantity is 20 sets.

Anybody interested in a group buy?

From a recent event - Photo credit - Jilly Dawson

Have you looked at Link  https://www.linkecu.com/?.  I have a very old one in my 2002 rally car (from the mid 90's) but they were still happy to repair it when it developed a fault recently.

I also crew for another rally car with a current model one (Fury) , it's been very reliable and has more features than we need

I run a Type 9 with a quaffe close ratio kit in my rally car,  It required a couple of dent's in the tunnel and the gear lever hole to be relocated. I'm really happy with it

New suspension today,  out with the old , in with the new. The new front struts are very close to the tire, but they do clear.

You're going to hate me but I'm going to use a Mitsubishi 6A12.  2 litre V6 DOHC Mivec.  about the same power as the original Dino and the 2.5 Alfa that most people use, but it means it runs in the same class as my 2002 for many events so I can mix & match as required.  It has the same firing order as the Dino & Alfa so it should sound right. Also staying at 2 litres  puts a hard stop on the about of power it will make, I've been racing rally cars for over 20 years, I'd like to think I have some clues but I also know my limitations, too much power and a very short wheel base is a recipe for meeting banks, fences, large drops .....

Stratos Replica - ListerBell STR

Put my 2002's into storage, ready for the next project

It's a 121 head and I'm on 98 RON fuel, not sure what the compression ratio is but I don't believe it's particularly high.

Agree about the 123 dizzy but this is the "spare" rally car as in it's all my spare parts in one place.  The other car has first dibs on the budget for go faster bits.

1 hour ago, Simeon said:

If it’s a really a rally car, surely it would spend more time at 4,000 than at idle so I would always time for max advance and let idle take care of itself. 

 

Any noticable issues turning it over with the starter (too much initial advance)? If not, I would leave it alone and look elsewhere for your overheating issues. 

Yes, it's really a rally car hence I did time it for max advance but it does struggle a bit on the starter so perhaps a bit much initial advance.

Cooling wise,  new radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, flushed it a couple of times, I've just added an oil cooler but haven't run it in competition yet.

So Veronica ( one of my rally cars) runs an E30 distributor & ignition system , (Yes I know they turn the opposite way, the object  of the exercise was to change the cam, the 292° cam I had, had gears to suit an anticlockwise distributor)

I set up the timing to give around 35° of maximum advance, kind of based on general 2002 settings, however I've just noticed the spec for the ignition system I fitted is around 30° of max advance ( 26° @ 4000 rpm)  and as I'm also chasing an over heating issue I'm wondering if I've been a bit aggressive on the timing.

So the question is. Time it as an E30 or a 2002 ?

2 hours ago, Hatchman said:

Interesting, I'll be honest I never even thought of a custom spring being an option.
Looks like you used the "stock" geometry of the two pieces, other than the bump stop mod, any issues there?
Would be curious to hear any specs you may have, length, gauge spring rate ect.  Would be fun to try to hunt down a set of springs from some other vehicle that fit the part.

Thanks for the post!

I basically took an E30 and a 2002 spring into a local spring maker, explained what I wanted and picked them up  a week later. From memory price was around NZ$250 for the pair.

Current rear spring, is 101mm ID, 15.98mm Wire, 9.25 turns, rate is 250 lb/in, which gives 176 lb/in at wheel, This is stiffer than stock which is around 130 lb/in at wheel

Only issue is the arm doesn't quite swing far enough down to remove the spring without using a spring compressor.

I used a custom wound spring, as it ends up quite long the wire diameter needs to to be a bit bigger. I also lengthened the "spigot" the spring sits around to get the bump stop in the right place

I've looking into to options to quicken the the steering ratio of my rally car. In the tight & technical sections where you have to go from lock to lock I've been struggling against the Escorts.

Basically it seems I have 4 options.

1 - Fit a rack - downside, clearing the bell housing is an issue, I'd need to rebuilt my exhaust as by current headers wrap around the steering column, positioning the rack  to avoid bump steer could be problematic, I also may have certification issues to allow the car to be driven on the road.

2 - Fit a steering quickener.  Downsides, not sure that I have room to do that, forward of the firewall is full of exhaust, back of the firewall is full of master cylinders, technically illegal to drive on a public road in NZ with one.

3 - Adjust the length of the of the steering arms, Downsides, possible bump steer issues, absolutely impossible to have the car certified  for use on the road in NZ with cut & welded steering arms (some guys get away with it)

4 - New internals for stock steering box. Downsides - It's going to be expensive if I can find somebody to do the machining.

Have I missed an option?

If I can find somebody that can do the machining to do the right hand drive version of the left hand drive quick steering, are there enough other people interested that we can do a group buy and keep the price down to just one arm & leg

In New Zealand it's $47.09 for a years registration, but to keep it road legal it also needs a mechanical inspection (WOF) every 6 months. They're about $50 each.

You would be surprised what we make in NZ, we even make rockets (https://www.rocketlabusa.com/) don't let the USA bit in that address fool you, Rocketlabs is a New Zealand company with a USA mail box. (so POTUS 45 doesn't bomb us for having ICBM capabilities)  most of the vehicle is made in Auckland, a couple of side covers for an E21 diff - no problems.

More seriously - I reverse engineered the cover plates using an E21 and 2002 diff as data points, not sure if the E21 was early or late.  So far I've done a number of hillclimbs and  bentsprints using a diff made from the E21 casing I had, an E36 gear set (4.45) and an LSD I got of trademe, plus my bootleg parts, it all seems to be working OK

If it helps anyone, here's a drawing of the side flange required to put a LSD into a open diff housing.  In my case I had an open E21 diff and a LSD center.  After pricing up the side flanges from BMW I had them machined up by a local machine shop for a fraction of the price

VER-DIFF-1 Rev 2.pdf

Here's why I don't like the rain. it had actually just stopped but it was still really slippery

James Allen memorial Rallysprint Run 3 - Oops

I compete in the Northern Rallysprint Series, which is held in the top half of the North Island in New Zealand.  If you go to the 2016 galley @ http://www.nrss.co.nz/ there are some pictures of my car in action.

The car runs a M10 engine, with ITB's & and a 304° cam

Gearbox is a Ford Type 9 (sierra) with Quaffe close ratio kit.

Diff is E30 medium case LSD with 4.45 ratio

Also from a couple of years ago 

In-car videos at

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt4rjkpmucbxd-uUnpk0NkA

I'm running 250 lb front springs & 176 lb rear springs with Bilstein Sport sports.

(note I use E30 rear arms so the effective spring rate will be slightly different than if I was using 2002 arms)

I use a stock front sway bar and no rear sway bar.

Tyres are Dunlop SP85R 175/65 R14 on bottle cap rims.

Overall I'm happy with this setup on gravel, the car generally turns in nicely although I can get a little bit of understeer when the fronts wear.

My sequence is drive it until I a get a bit of understeer then put new tyres on the front and put the old fronts on the back.

Generally I can get around 60 km of special stage before I swap out the fronts so each tyre does 120 km of special, 60 as a front & 60 as a rear.