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lsixt

Solex
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Everything posted by lsixt

  1. lsixt
    I'm going with a Derale - pusher - puts out 2,210 CFM. I think I'm set. Thanks everyone!
  2. lsixt
    Thanks!
  3. lsixt
    I didn't think about that one.... What it I get hit by a truck when I'm stuck? Sorry, but I'm really looking for an answer to the question, not some hypothetical question in return that is obviously useless to me or anyone else. A more appropriate approach may have been to ask how old the fan is... for all you know it may actually be new or recently rebuilt. The later being the case here. During the rebuild, I was going to replace the A/C, but it didn't work out. However the fan is a rebuild, so can we get this back to my original question? Thanks, Len
  4. lsixt
    '74 2002, Metric Mechanic motor, dual 40's, 320 radiator, water neck with both temp and aux fan sensors. Car at one time "had" A/C so I still have the A/C aux fan in the car, all of the other A/C equipment is NOT installed. I want to run without the plastic fan (already had one explode that destroyed my first 320 radiator). I'd wire the A/C fan to the aux sensor along with manual switch. Question: Is the A/C aux fan enough to allow me to remove the plastic radiator fan or not? Thanks, Len
  5. lsixt
    Needed: two door sills for 1974 2002....
  6. lsixt
    Well, maybe it's as good as it will get. Engine off, ignition on, trickle charger on the battery, light on low: If I pull the connector off the front bulbs, I get 11.5 to 12 volts. When I plug the connector on the bulb, the voltage at the bulb drops to about 10.4 volts. Motor running at idle (900rmp) the voltage at the bulb (connector on) is about 10.7, with engine off idle 2,000 rpm +, the voltage goes to about 11.4. I'm thinking I should mabe go to different bulbs and or move on to other issues. Thanks for everyone's help!
  7. lsixt
    12 + at relay (two terminals - assumed to be input and output) Driver side lamp = 11.61 volts Pass side lamp < 10 volts volts at common < 1 volt Alternator new, charging battery, assumed to be OK
  8. lsixt
    Stock wiring. As far as I know, all grounds are sound. Exception, I see a ground in the wiring diag that comes off the harness near the front firewall / passenger side and I'm not sure I recall seeing that on my harness at all. That said, what grounds specifically are you talking about? Are there light specific grounds? Thanks!
  9. lsixt
    I've asked everyone that I can and have not yet been able to get a clear answer to my question / issue. I have a 1974 2002, manual 4 speed. The car underwent a custom resto and I was the guilty party doing the re-assembly. Here's one of my remaining issues: I only have 10 volts at my headlights. That is with the low beams on (not high beams), engine running. I show 12 volts at the relay and I've swapped relays as well as replaced them. Result is my lights are very dim, hardly useable for night driving. High beams help some. Can someone tell me what voltage I should get at the lights (I would assume 12 volts). If it is 12, any thoughts on how to track down my issue? Thanks! Len
  10. lsixt
    I never did like that cat.
  11. lsixt
    Actually, I think I do have the rod part of this... Does that rod go on the outside of the battery (closer to the fender than the engine)? I'll have to look about for the other piece. Maybe the cat didn't eat the thing. Thanks, Len
  12. lsixt
    Battery tray is solid, but there is nothing to hold down my battery... parts lost / or rusted, eaten, etc... Any suggestions on where I can get something to hold down my battery (stock location).. Most universal holders, require the bottom tray tabs, which we don't got. Real OEM didn't seem to show any part(s) or numbers. Pictures would be cool. Thanks, Len
  13. lsixt
    My car has just made it back to the street from undergoing a resto over the last 7 years. First few times out, just about the block a few times. Everthing seems OK, with the exception of a strange noise that I hear when I start to coast from say 30MPH or so. The best I can describe the noise is that it sounds like a chirping and appears to be coming from the tranny and or drive shaft... As soon as I give it any throttle, the noise goes away. It's a 74, 4-speed and when I say "coasting" it is with the clutch engaged (IE my foot is OFF the clutch).. actually I haven't tried to "coast" at that speed with the clutch in. Any thoughts? Regards, Len
  14. lsixt
    I'm fairly sure the calipers are on correctly. The nipples don't point up. All three point straight out... The odd nipple is on top, and the two opposing nipples are in the middle. See photo.
  15. lsixt
    Well, well, well.... I got more "pedal" but it's late, I'm old, and tired... so tomorrow perhaps we'll give it a test.... Here's what I did... Right behind the booster, in the pedal box (external outside the firewall).. there are two arms that have adjustment forks in them... Well I turned in the one that is connected to the brake pedal (making it shorter)... I guess I gave it about 5 or 6 turns clockwise. This shortened the travel that the pivot has to make before moving the upper arm to the MC. I didn't muck with the one that goes into the MC... Anyway, like I said... it appears that I have more pedal now. Test drive tomorrow perhaps. Thanks all.
  16. lsixt
    Well I got them to work, but it wasn't that easy.... The bulbs have two connections on their base. If they BOTH are grounded, they didn't work. I had to tape one of the connections on the right hand bulb so it wasn't making contact... I hooked the blinking wire to the brighter element, the other to the dimmer element... Seems OK now. Only blew two fuses in the process... didn't realize it at first and was really getting strange results... like when I turned on the right blinker, both of my rear "side" lights would blink, inside instrument cluster blinker light would only blink once, all kinds of weird stuff.. Replaced fuses, got out some electrical tape, dranks some more, and POOF, Thanks, Len
  17. lsixt
    I understand, but can you adjust both the pedal height AND the amount of depth that the upper rod is pushing into the MC? I'm not sure I'm making myself clear, but can you adjust the amount of upward thrust on the MC and keep the pedal height the same? I was under the impression that the adjustment in the pedal box was ONLY to adjust the brake pedal height inside the car.
  18. lsixt
    1974 2002 non Tii VOLVO disks on front - stock rear stock rear drums stock (NEW) MC no fluid leaks - level has been stable for ever bled brakes using buddy system and pressure bleeder many times clutch works just fine clutch and brake pedals are at the same heigth brake pedal travels 2" before brake lights come on and another inch or more before any brake pressure is felt at that point there is only about one inch more to the floor and I can't get any brake pressure to stom me from a 5mph roll within 20 yards Someone told me there is a brake linkage adjustment that can be done to take out that first 2" of needless travel, but not how.. anybody heard of such an adjustment and how it's done? Thanks,Len
  19. lsixt
    I'll try that with the MC.... One more item... I am not having any issues with the clutch... she works fine... also, I'm not losing any fluid as the level stays right where it is... Now, the clutch and brake pedals are at the same level inside the car. But I have to push the brake pedal at least 2 inches before the brake lights come on and then another inch or so (three inches in all) before I can feel any brake pressure... at that point I'm almost to the floor and putting it to the floor isn't enough to stop me from a 5MPH roll within 20 yards... UGH...
  20. lsixt
    lots of stuff.... The car was "stock" 7 years ago when I started a rebuild. Stipped to the bone and acid dipped. So, in terms of how they worked before, they worked as you would expect for a old used car. Bought a lot of new parts when I started, including a new MC... Not knowing at that time if I was going to stay stock or not. As you know, I went for the front upgrade.... I haven't been able to get any "pressure" since I hooked up the brakes. I've not tried the buddy foot on the pedal method yet, but I will later today if my wife agrees to humor me. The "bubbles"... when I have the pressure bleeder on and all bleeder screws shut... if I "pump" the brake pedal, I'll see some bubbles come up OUT of the brake fluid resivor
  21. lsixt
    1974 2002 (Non-Tii)... Stock rear wheels, upgraded front disk Volvo Girlings... New stock brake M/C (bought the M/C prior to the brake upgrade) Here's the issue. I've bled the brakes about six times. RR, LR, RF, LF... bled all of the Girling bleeders from top to bottom.... Using a pressure bleeder system.... No matter how much I bleed the system, my brake pedal goes to the floor with no braking power... If I put the front wheels off the ground, spin them and apply the brakes, they stop, but when I'm driving (keeping one hand on the E-brake handle), I litterally have no brakes. Before you all start yelping about driving with no brakes, the car isn't tagged yet... the test driving is on a closed area behind the garage. One more thing... with the pressure bleeder on and all bleeder screws closed, when I apply the brakes, almost always I'll get some bubbles work their way up the pressure bleeder hose. I've read about all I could find on MC and big brake upgrades... Bottom line from what I've read is that a stock MC should work - not saying it's the best solution, just from what I've read it should work.. Tii MC seems next step, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks, Len
  22. lsixt
    Using euro side lights and tap-a-lite, turn signals work as does the hazzard lights, when the headlights are OFF.... But when I turn on the headlights, the blinkers and hazzards no longer work.... ????? Thanks, Len
  23. lsixt
    So, do you know what it is for or are you just feeling a bit witty today? obviously the PO had it hooked up wrong.... my question is where does it go?
  24. lsixt
    UGH, I don't have any idea what this is... it was hooked up to my horn ring... don't ask me why... Any ideas what this harness is for? Thanks, Len
  25. lsixt
    Yippeee!!!!! I had it hooked up wrong..... Now all is well..... Thanks for the photo! Len
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