Tiger75

I bought some for $17 each

And you might be able to change out bearings from an old one but it would not be easy. You would have to get out the lock rings without damaging them and then press out the bearing. Press in another bearing and reinstall lock ring. I think there is a good chance you would mess up the lock ring doing this.

I bought some. They do not have the bearings in them and the bearings are not available anywhere by themselves. If you found the bearings , there is also a bearing keeper- a ring that has tabs that would have to be knocked out once the bearings were pressed in.

I sent mine back.

I should have ordered from Blunt, you know, Butch Driveshaft.

remember that parts deal I told you about?

Don't buy. Part is incomplete.

Call me

I am about to recover front seats. I read somewhere that adding a layer of memory foam on top just below vinyl was a good idea. I have not been able to find any info on using it for auto upholsetry. Everything I find is about mattresses. My upholsetry guy says it is a waste of money. Anybody have any experience with this? Good idea or bad idea?

I am looking for embossed and plain dark blue vinyl to recover some seats. I think the orginal color is Marine Blue . It is a 1974 color.

Anybody have a good source for this vinyl fabric?

Any of you Texas boys or Okies going?

I may meet Mike in Ft Smith some time Friday Oct 10th. Wanna join up?

(nt)

Did it work?

Oil Filter Adaptor Plate

This is a great product to make installing your Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature senders easy. This plate screws on under your oil filter and it has 4 1/8"NPT fittings. So, no more drilling and taping holes. Just unsrew your oil filter, screw the plate down in the same manner as you would install your oil filter, and then screw your oil filter back on and install our Oil Pressure or Oil Temperature senders. Comes with 4 plugs and instructions. The plate can even be rotated 360 degrees give you the most room to install the senders.

http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx

Date: 6-13-06 12:50

From: Tiger75 in Shreveport, LA

Subject: steering Box Rebuild

Blunt,

I bought a spare to rebuild. It has taken a long time to get my parts together. Make sure the roller axle shaft and the worm gear are good. They are expensive. If you need either one it might be best to buy a rebuild for $400 +- $175 core. The groves need to be in good shape and the shafts need to have a good fit where it fits inside the 2 brass bushings in the lower end of the steering box housing. There is also a brass bushing in the cap where the top of the axle shaft rides. I had to fnd a good used cap because mine was worn.

I replaced upper and lower seals and top gasket. I also replace both bearings and both races. I don't think replacing all this will give you any more adjusting room with the screw on the top of the box. I think that wear on the axle shaft is taken up by that adjustment. Having replaced the bearing and races, one side of each bearing rides on the worm gear. Mine had some wear where the bearing rides but a new worm gear is about $200. The bearings price is like $46 each but 2002AD has an alternate source from somewhere. Their price is $7.42 each . The races are $28 and $19. The races are different although the bearings are the same.

If you have any more questions, just let me know. This is my first rebuild of an 02 steering box bit I have rebuilt the box on my 1930 Model A Ford. I am amazed at how similar they are.

The Haynes Automotive Repair Manual for 2002’s has a good section on steering box rebuilds, staring on page 182.

These are the parts that I replaced.

1) Upper (smaller) Shaft Seal 32111110269 827N 17.6 X30 X7

on side shaft of worm gear - $10 from 2002AD

2) Lower(larger) Shaft Seal 32112670110 28X 42.5 X8

BAD C205 Din 3780 on bottom of steering axle shaft - $11.50 from 2002AD

3) Ball Bearing Cage (need 2) 32112670135 one on each side of worm gear

$46 from dealer $7.42 form 2002AD ?

4) smaller bearing race 32112670132 fits next to spline on worm gear

SKF 355887 $28.75 from 2002AD

5) larger bearing race 32111110268 fits inside next to side cover plate and washer

SKF355 927- original German, RHF BAC2030 English replacement,

$19 from 2002AD

6) Steering Box Cover Gasket 32112670107 about $4

(nt)

I have 4 i am not using.

Any body interested?

(nt)

I use high temp brake grease. The kind you use on the back of brake pads. It doesn't melt cause it high temp and stays where you put it . but it is greasy and sticky. but works great

you told us too , Scott.

You said all the 02 people would be there!

Plus it's near Humberto's house!!!

Blunt, I have a copy if you need it.

Tim

Tiger75

I used a heat gun and every scraper tool that I had in the garage, first.

Then I used the orange citrus stuff. Helped a little .

Last I used acetone to get up the residual stuff but it is flamaable and not good to breath. I did it in the open with a big fan blowing it away.

yes

I got the following from Petronix yesterday

I have a 1974 BMW 2002 TII. I use the orginal distributor and two eariler

model Bosche Distributors. I want to convert each of my Dizzys to Pertronix.

I have looked up the three Ignitor parts numbers that I need using different

vendor websites and I am getting conflicting answers . Will you please

provide the Pertronix Ignitor parts numbers that I need for the following

three Bosche Distributors?

1)My orginal 0-231-180-013 vac retarded

2)earlier Tii model 0-231-151-008

3)later replacement 0-231-188-002

Thanks

Tim

Tim, Here are your part numbers...

-013 1847V

-008 2847

-002 2842

These kits will need 3.0-ohm coils...

I would suggest the following part numbers...

40501 Chrome

40511 Black

PerTronix

(nt)

I headed out Sunday AM

I hit the road at 6 am and headed South on the Pig Trail.

I only say two pick up trucks before 9 am and they were going the other way.

I had the road to myself for 3 hours and I made the most of it.

For some reason I made good time getting home.

I think it was cause I was riding lite since I didn't have that extra coil in my trunk and there were fewer beers back there,too.

Skip I am thinking about cutting back to two ice chests for Vintage. Three is just over kill. Can we get by on one?

I went to my local expert and have emailed Chris B who wrote the elec test quide on FAQ.

Problem is triodes - probably or one or more of the diodes in the rectifier.

I went to my local expert this am.

He said if light was not out when running then alt was not keeping up. He reccomended to replace unit before my trip not during my trip.

The whole rectifier will probably have to be replaced since he said it was almost impossibe to replace the triode(3 diodes) in this model because it is so tight.

He bench tested my spare alt and it is great so I am going to swap them tonight.

It ain't easy on a TII cause the alt is so low and you have to take the front tension bar off the get the alt out.

But I got till 7 in the morning.

I guess that what I get for using Arkansas parts!!!!

and i could see under there too good. Remember the Tii alt is mounted low.

The B+ voltage at idle was 13.56

The 14.03 volts was at the D+ terminal.

So my wire from alt to battaery is good.

I had replaced it with I added the ew alt.

I found that alt has to excite =on initial start up. L light burnd bright for a few seconds until alt gets going. Once it is going red light goes out - everything A ok. Then if i add a big load like turn on blower and head light , I get that slight, very slight glow in the L red light.

I think it might be a diode starting to go bad, but alt was checked by a reputiable shop before i installed it.

Anyboby got any other ideas?

I have an electrical question.

I was doing a test drive and getting my car in shape for a trip this weekend of about 800 to 900 miles to Mid America Fest in Arkansas. I am not really having any trouble except that my L (red ) came on on my test run. I only saw it cause I started the car in the dark with no lights on. When it stays on, it is very, very faint. Only 10 % to 15 % of normal brightness. It is on at idle but stays on when I rev it up.

If I turn off all acces and electrical sometimes I can no longer see it at all.

I ran most of the tests that are listed on FAQ - results below.

My electrical system is not stock. I have added Red Top Battery in the front Tray of my 1974 TII. I have also added additional grounding wire from Alt to block and body. Last summer I replaced my Tii alternator with one from a 318 that has an internal voltage regulator and disconnected the stock voltage regulator.

Engine off - static battery voltage 12.77

Engine at idle -900 rpms- all acces off - Battery Voltage 13.21

Engine at Idle - AC on - Front pusher fan on - battery voltage 12.60

Engine at idle - head lights on -Battery Voltage 12.73

Engine at idle - Alternator output (at B+) 14.03

It got to midnight so I quit for the night.

To me it seem that the Alt is putting out and the Regulator is regulator is regulating, but I have something bleeding a small amount of residual current through the ignition to the Service light.

Could this be because of the internal voltage regulators?

Any tips or tests would be greatly appreciated.

Tim Abendroth

Tiger75

Timbucktiger@comcast.net

You goin to Mid America in Eureka springs,Ark this weekend?

I will be there.

Tim