gwb72tii

1 hour ago, dlacey said:

If its an original S40 from a 2002 and its just the LSD clutches that need a refresh then its quite straightforward. There's no need to touch the pinion and the shims at the sides can just be carefully stored & put back later. Just open it up, pull the output shafts and bearing carriers and then juggle the crownwheel assembly out of the case. Procedure is covered in the BMW WSM.

You can buy the wear/service parts here: https://racingdiffs.com/collections/lsd-clutch-plate/products/bmw-168-mm-lsd-clutch-packs, they also sell a 'ramp saver' that can help restore tolerance in a well-worn diff (make sure the friction discs match your splines). Note the 02 LSD doesnt have bellville washers for preload, as found in all the later BMW LSDs, it relys on the clutch pack stack-up height and a few shims to define the preload (shims available at W&N). This preload defines the 'coasting' slip rate, under power the ramps force the clutches into action, as defined by the ramp angle.

Thanks! Now I just have to learn the terminology so I can understand what you’re telling me! Lol I have a lot to learn.

Sorry if my question wasn’t clear, I was wondering how to tell the lockup percentage.

To answer your question, I haven’t driven my tii a lot for a lot of reasons, not from lack of wanting to. I’m going to be buying a lift again for our new house and can again start getting my hands dirty. The tii’s driveline feels loose, like either the universal joints are worn, or the diff is sloppy. I’m competent mechanically to work on the tii, but I’ve never worked on a diff, let alone a LSD. I actually enjoy working on cars so if it’s a job that isn’t going to require all kinds of special tools I’d just as soon do it myself.

I know it is a LSD thanks

I’ve had it in the car for the last 10 years, all the way and back from Seattle to North Carolina

so second question

how hard would it be to rebuild myself, or am I better off thanking it to a competent shop?

Some time ago I picked up a LSD for my tii off a seller on Ebay. The LSD is in an oem 2002 differential housing, but without the normal identifying marks you would expect on a 2002 LSD. That leaves me wondering if the seller, who was racing 2002's at the time, built the LSD from scratch in the oem housing. The diff is in my tii and was a straight out swap.

My question is how I might identify if my diff is a 25% vs 40% or something else. And why I should care?

And secondly exactly what 25% or 40% means? lol

I should add  the diff is a 3.90:1 and my car is a 4spd.

Thanks for any help

I would take one please

thank you

Could someone please post pics of the wired connections attached to an early clock (1972)?

Thanks in advance

Have fun, I'll join in next time. The 2nd is the first day I'm home from a 2 week road trip.

bonneys@comcast.net

Maybe I missed something? Did the group take a drive? 
 

LET’S GO !!

I’m out of town the last two weeks of July, so let’s do a St.Helens drive (great idea roadhog0) in August. Who’s up for it?

Maybe meet up at Alki boat launch as in years past (or somewhere) around 8:30 and leave about 9:00 for the volcano. 
Have lunch somewhere and home by 5:00 or so?

Who’s up for a drive? We used to do this 2 or 3 times a year. Let’s go show off our cars and have a fun day!

George

b o n n e y s @ c o m c a s t . n e t

Hi stu

how do I get you my email?

so here's a question

I run HR springs with billy sport shox. I like the ride and it, for me, is not too stiff and I've never thought of it as stiff, sporty yes, stiff no.

I thought we had this discussion years ago that HD's are designed for a longer suspension travel, ie standard springs, and sports are for lowered cars with shorter springs. sports thereby limit suspension travel so the springs don't self dismount from their perches if you happen to go airborne or unweight from a big bump.

my suspension setup is 10 yrs old too, but only about 30k miles

hope this works.....and helps

tii fuel injection manual.pdf

2 minutes ago, gwb72tii said:

 

 

On 5/27/2020 at 9:52 AM, Bthorne said:

Thank you for the response I really appreciate it. Yeah I will put some more thought into that. I have also thought about an e30 so could be a more reliable option. 

having owned more than a few of both, e30's have weaknesses but for a DD they're built like a tank. the only issue I ever had in an e30 was the fuel pump. plus you can add a suspension kit and they are really fun!

that being said I'm going back to my tii as a DD. 2002's are generally reliable if sorted mechanically.

2 hours ago, NS2002 said:

I'm a proud new owner of a 1976 bmw 2002. The previous owners took very good care of the vehicle and it runs great as a daily driver. There are a few things that I haven't been able to figure out during my research regarding the 2002. 

 

1. My transmission leaks a little bit, never enough to drip on the ground, but its clear that there is an issue. From what I understand the clutch was changed 4 months ago (and there is documentation), but there is a leak nonetheless. I have been considering replacing the transmission entirely or even looking at 5 speed conversion kit. What I do not understand is, can I use my current transmission for the conversion or do I need a new transmission? This is one product I was looking at https://www.2002parts.com/bmw/5-speed-trans/5-speed-kit.html

32/

2. The charcoal evap canister is currently in place, but there is a smell of gas in the cabin. The carburetor is a webber 32/36 that could probably use a rebuild. The fuel neck filler looks new and there is no odors coming from the trunk. My guess is that the smell is either from the carb, or the evap canister (which I can't find a replacement for)...

 

The car runs great, starts up right away and is a pleasure to drive. I'm just trying to figure out how to keep it alive. I know the engine was rebuilt 10 years ago, and I don't know if its due for another rebuild (i'm also not sure how many times an engine can be rebuilt). I'm not opposed to replacing the engine and transmission entirely, but I'm not certain what would be the most seamless fit. I'm guessing a 320i engine and transmission could work, but I'm not sure. I'm also not obsessed with keeping the engine being stock..

 

Any suggestions?

you didn't mention where the leak is coming from? forward around the cover plate on the tranny/motor area? Common leak is the rear main seal which cam be replaced with a little effort. 

or towards the rear of the tranny up higher? the sector shaft seal is a common area for a leak and can be replaced without taking the tranny out.

FIX THE FUEL LEAK from the carb. 10 to 20 drops of gas on a warm/hot motor is asking for trouble. and do what testy suggested, plus the fuel lines get old and crack plus ethanol gas can be an issue with old fuel lines.

like the title mentions I need a trunk lock

brought my car out of storage and the trunk key is missing

would like a lock in really nice shape if possible

TIA

George

from 2007, my son Greg (benetton) with his non-stock Avus blue 2003 hot rod. Car was eventually t-boned by a drunk, nobody hurt, and purchased out of auction by someone in Napa Valley where it resides today. Sooooo many new parts and things on that car is kinda hard to look at it. Probably the best wheels i've ever seen  on a 2002. Compomotives that Greg restored. And that's my tii next to it.

Autopress LTD by Kenneth Ball

Workshop manual for the models indicated by the picture

Obviously used but in good shape considering the publishing date of 1970

Interior of the manual is in very good shape

no PM's please

$30 +shipping

deleted

Someone correct me but i was taught years ago that to break in the motor you do in fact go like hell, within reason. You want big explosions in the cylinders to pressurize the piston rings, that the high pressure wants to expand the circumference of the ring increasing its pressure against the cylinder walls helping seat the rings.

Yes everything

pm me your shipping info and I’ll give you the total tomorrow

H4’s

good shape, reflectors bright and clear, minimal pitting

i replaced these with Cibies I bought from Blunt years ago.

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Hi

Used ignition switch and door handles, keyed the same. Good shape.

Mechanicals only, no electric bits.

NO PM’s, public responses only please.